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Gaucho Argentino

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Posts posted by Gaucho Argentino

    Solo Climbing - "Silent Partner"

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Hi,

    Thanks you all for the good advice and time, I really appreciate it.

    Couple of notes then for those that answered and know more than me to see if I got the idea right, and for those that did not use it yet but may want to use the device in the future:

     

    1) The rigging was exactly as the manual. So my take in here (although not easy to explain in words in a computer) is that the device is not "friction free" on the way up, like a rope would feed through an open gri-gri (and what I was expecting from reading the manual). It is going to be more like the friction of someone on rappel on an ATC, or like having some constant mild rope drag like when you go around a corner and you feel the pull down in your hips. It kinda makes sense because is very difficult to imagine a rope feeding through a clove that will not have some friction. I was just hoping for less, again when reading at the manual :-)

     

    2) Rope from the top or bottom: will think about redirecting the rope in my pack to a biner on my harness leg loop so that it seems as if coming from below. I hope it will not generate too much friction that will lock the system. It should not be as bad as 20-30 feet of rope weight hanging. I really do not like for now leaving the rope below, or having the loops hanging :eek:

     

    3) I tried it in a couple vertical 5.7 / 5.8 cracks in Vantage. May be is more user friendly in less than vertical situation? I'll try it asap in something like 70-80 degrees, I think it might make a difference. (Anyone already compared this?)

     

    4) It would be great to have a discussion about how best to rig anchors both for upward and downward pulls like you can potentially have in a multipitch solo climb, but I guess that might be too much for the thread. If anyone interested in the topic ever feel like a beer and discussing the issue, I'm in Seattle and the first pitcher's on me :brew:

     

    Summary: is a very solid secure device, just would not feed as smooth as you would think when reading the description. Still I think the pros are better than the cons...

     

    Thanks again to all :tup: !! ...

    GA

    Solo Climbing - "Silent Partner"

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Dude, I know that. Could we for once just have a solid discussion of a real climbing question? I am not inventing anything here, this technique is part of the climbing community. You can agree or disagree, but just post if you have any helpful feedback, I think is not that weird a thing to ask, right?

    Thanks,

    GA

    Solo Climbing - "Silent Partner"

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Hi, seeking for some feedback if you have experience in the matter and feel like sharing...

     

    Just came back from my first couple of days with the "Silent Partner". Although I'm very happy how secure it is and how fast it brakes to take a fall, it was a bummer how much friction it gives when lead climbing. Even with the rope in my pack (so no weight from the rope on the system), whenever I pulled up to make a move even 10 feet away from my anchor (i.e. very little rope hanging or weighting the devicw), it felt like a belayer that does not give you slack, and made a 5.7 feel like a 5.9. The clove hitch slightly closed and gave a lot of friction. I wanted to grease the rope !! BTW, the rope is brand new, a 9.8 petzl.

     

    Please, has anyone used this device and figured out a way to make the rope run smoother through it? I did google a bunch of posts but no one gave ideas as to how solve this.

     

    Thanks,

    GA

    [TR] Baker/Roman Wall (with camera crevasse rescue!!) - Coleman / Roman Wall 4/27/0

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Looks like it scared the sh*t out of you while in the crevasse. The shot you took looking down speaks a thousand words. Looks like a sweet climb...

     

    Back in 2009, I think this climb was my fifth ever in my life. The feeling of hanging in the air on an 8.9 mm rope was actually very interesting :eek: , specially when you see there is a whole in it and you can not see the bottom ... I do not know many people willing to go on purpose doen there :grin: so at least they can see how it is from inside :) ...

    otherwise the climb was fairly simple and common, but fun...

    Posting TRs

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Hi...

     

    When trying to post the TR, in the date, the year does not work. It seems to be happening to more than me because there are several trips with the day as 04/06/0

     

    Month and day, no problem, but the drop down menu for the year does not work...

     

    Thank you...

    [TR] Baker/Roman Wall (with camera crevasse rescue!!) - Coleman / Roman Wall 4/27/0

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by Gaucho Argentino

    Trip: Baker/Roman Wall (with camera crevasse rescue!!) - Coleman / Roman Wall

     

    Date: 4/27/2011

     

    Trip Report:

    08/09/2009...

     

    Well, sitting in front of the computer is not my forte, but is the only way to share some of the fun. I had been intending to post at least this trip, out of the 30 climbs of the last 2 years, mostly because of some cool pics of massive crevasses, getting my camera out of one... good times.

     

    So, on a Friday night, Matt, Chris and I took off to Baker. We tried to bike in the 7 miles of the closed road 39. We did it for only 2 miles and then 5 of carrying the bikes... but it was a hell of a way down !!

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/090807_2200hrs-Biking_in1.JPG[/img]

     

     

    As a funny note, on the Hogback we found a party of six that were going for the North Ridge in a multiday climb, and the guys asked us for an extra lighter because NO ONE brought a single match or lighter (I swear I'm not lying...) :shock:

     

    We found some late season broken crap up there under the Black Buttes

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/090808_1211hrs-Hitting_the_Glacier_12a11.JPG[/img]

     

     

    And after the very nice day, night came with some clouds and light rain, but nothing that bad

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/326.JPG[/img]

     

     

     

    However the morning was awesome and we went up working the way through ginormous crevasses... some of them:

     

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/425.JPG[/img]

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/519.JPG[/img]

     

     

    Unluckily, my velcro camera case opened, and the camera flew into a crevasse... FUUUUUUU#####ccccccc******kkkkk!!!!!!

    Matt self arresting while I went to the lip to try to see the camera, but no way...

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/617.JPG[/img]

     

     

    Well, what the hell, we kept going and we summit...

     

     

    Pic of the top of the Roman Wall with Colfax in the background

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/712.JPG[/img]

     

    Summit rim with an ocean of clouds all around

     

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/812.JPG[/img]

     

     

     

    Time to head down, and when tracing our steps, I look again for the camera, and I saw it stucked in a lip about 30 feet down in a 200 feet crevasse !! So we buried two pickets for Matt (his back in the pic) and one more for Chris (took the pic) and down I went.

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/1117.JPG[/img]

     

    I got the camera and recorded two videos. NOW: viewer discretion advised :), clearly can be exhilarating to go down in a crevasse on an 8.9 mm rope, because the expressions are not precisely for a school, but what the heck, I do not mind, I got my camera back !!

     

    NOTE: don't tell me I have no accent, OK??!! :grin:

     

    First short video:

     

     

    Second slightest longer video:

     

     

    And here is a pic with MY CAMERA of the crevasse where it fall, it got stucked in the little lip border kinda above the big hole you see in the bottom...

     

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/917.JPG[/img]

     

     

    Finally, we made it out without major extra complications, good time with good friends outside, what can be better?

     

     

    [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/1015.JPG[/img]

     

     

     

    Credit goes to Matt and Chris for pics as well, some were taken by them...

     

     

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    1 x 8.9mm 60m rope

    3 pickets

     

    Approach Notes:

    Bike, wandering around crevasses

    Mt Hood Snow Cat Rental

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Buddy, was just joking, anyone can do whatever they want in life...

     

    Still, the mountain was BEFORE they decided to put the ski area, I would personally climb the mountain, use the $20 for a pitcher :brew: .

    Hopefully no one will decide to put an ski lift to Camp Muir :mad: ...

    Question: Climber Partners - Resume

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I see... Forget about the "resume", then, and although I hate to sit in front of the computer, will post my older trips, this should help.

     

    The gym is cool, and I am going there, but can not get to know people doing things a little more difficult willing to take me, until I have more experience with harder stuff, that I can not get because can not find the partners that want to go with me (egg and chicken).

     

    Thanks to all, do not want this thread to be longer than necessary, I appreciate the responses and hope to see you out there,

     

    Cheers,

    GA

    Question: Climber Partners - Resume

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Hi...

     

    Steve: thanks, Buddy, but I know how to write a resume. My question was more directed to those that run the site, if there was a particular site where to post it, because I could not find it.

     

    If it does not exist, then as Rob said, it will be difficult for me to meet people willing to do more challenging climbs. Is like the chicken and the egg, you can not post TRs for people to know you if you do not have climber friends to go climbing...

     

    Cheers,

    GA

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