MrGecko

Yesterday a bolt was added to the top of Rolling Thunder to deal with the nasty fall potential for the 2nd. This also now provides for a nice continuation into Burrito Killa for a long single pitch aka Rolling Killa. We also cleaned out Ganesh and started scrubbing Wine&Cheese for some refitting.

I am looking to get a few retired climbing ropes for non climbing purposes. If anyone in the Portland area has a retired rope they would like to donate I would be happy to pick it up. You can respond here with a good contact or please email me at rope@miraiusa.com Thx

Helm's Deep has also been retrofitted with a bolt where the gear was previously recommended. Its no longer a mixed route now. JS took care of that as well.

Kevbone exactly the consensus we reached as well. No additional anchor, just a single bolt. That bolt will facilitate a safer follow on RT, the ability to extend RT or Jacobs Ladder on to Burrito Killer for a full sport line or extending into TippTopp nicely. If one stops at the ledge then the bolt will help with the step around for timid leaders. The important thing is that as climbers we govern ourselves to make routes as safe as possible for each other in these high traffic areas and avoid the rescue teams showing up unnecessarily.

Here is a classic example of why there are break-ins at Ozone. These pics show what was in plain sight in someones Subaru. I prefer to park beside these folks 'cause then my empty car looks a hell of a lot less interesting. A nicely packed grab bag Better yet free money

Tent - SOLD Therma-A-Rest - SOLD North Face Hydration Belt - SOLD

TippTopp had some gardening done yesterday and looks more inviting. After we climbed Rolling Thunder again and discussed the options, it seems like adding one more bolt to the top of RT to protect the 2nd would be the preferred option. a. it achieves the primary goal for a safer exit from RT to the ledge b. allows Rolling Thunder and TippTopp to be combined without breaking the natural flow of the link up c. adds an extra level of protection to the step around from the large ledge to the start of TippTopp It was felt that another set of anchors would be unnecessary.

It had a 2nd and 3rd ascent and the consensus so far is 5.10- We also made a team effort to clean out the garden on TippTopp so that route is looking more inviting.

I have a pair for sale here and will be coming up to Seattle this weekend if interested and you can try them out for cheap http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1125670/Gear_Closet_Clean_Out#Post1125670

Climbed Piton Variation (shown as 61 in the topo below) today above Ripper up to the big ledge. The old mangled piton in that route looks ok but doesn't do much to protect the section, if you miss the throw you'll meet the upper deck. Exploring alternatives, we climbed the crack system to the left of the Piton Variation. It was a bit choked up with shrubery so did a wee bit of cleaning. With a similar character to its neighbor, it can be protected with a 1 and/or 2 MasterCam and goes about 10- Calling it "Full Jack" Anyone know if this has been done before? Route highlighted - topo from Portland Rock Guide Looking up from the top anchors above Ripper at left hand crack system

Time for a spring cleaning and I have an assorted bunch of stuff up for grabs. All located in Portland but can arrange to meet in Seattle within the week. MSR Carbon Reflex II - $250 SOLD brand new with tags, never used, 3lbs, retail $499 http://www.rei.com/product/829835/msr-carbon-reflex-2-tent Petzl Quick Draw Dog Bones - Free GONE Black Diamond Twist Lock Ice Axe Leash - $5 A5 Shoulder Double Gear Loop - $10 Therm.A.Rest NeoAir, Long - $50 SOLD 77 x 25 x 2.5 inches iPhone 4 Running Arm Band - $5 Crack Climbing Hand Jammies, Med - $10 MSR Miox Water Purifier - $44 MSR E-Wing 2 Person Shelter - $70 New never used http://www.rei.com/product/810040/msr-e-wing-shelter Groove Air Force One Mini Skis - $100 MSR Hyperflow Water Filter Cartridge - $20 each New never used Garmont Light Weight Climbing Boots - $35 Used once, great shape, size 8 Perfect for something like Stuart North Ridge type routes Seal Line Dry Bag 20L - $10 CamelBak FlashFlo Hip Hydration Bag - $10 SOLD includes 1L hydration bag North Face Hydration Bottle Belt - $15 SOLD Ultimate Directions Endorfun Running Pack - $25 fully adjustable with 4 stowage compartments Charlet Moser Spiky Ice Approach Overshoe - $10 light weight used for winter trail running ]

Jon thanks so much for chiming in and glad you are on these boards. I have climbed TippTopp from the upper ledge and it was enjoyable to step around the corner and plug cams. Unfortunately the corner is also quite a garden and unless someone gets in there and cleans it up I don't think it will be popular and question if it even has been given the greenery. Too bad, its a fun line. However, the goal here is to make Rolling Thunder a safer route especially for the second. >>Would we cut up a direct line to the top? Given how the guide book is written, it gives the impression of 2 separate routes already. It only suggests that one could continue up TippTopp after climbing Rolling Thunder. However, if one wants to link the entire line it could still be accomplished whether the anchors are added or not. The anchors only address safety for those not wanting to link the lower and upper routes because the traverse after unclipping the last bolt to the suggested stop at the large ledge is dangerous. >>Would we make it safer for sport climbers? It would be safer for any climber. >>Do we need another bolted route? I am suggesting just adding anchors in a safer location. Some climbers will do the whole thing, some won't, that won't change. >>TippTopp is a great route and see's limited use, would it be done more or less? I don't have stats but I would guess it will get the same traffic and this won't have any impact. >>Rolling Thunder is a great route with limited use, same question as above. Again, I will guess it will see the same traffic however, it will be safer and potentially save someone a lot of pain and a 911 rescue team at the crag one day in the future. >>Would we be discouraging people from learning how to lead traditionally? Absolutely not, there are plenty of routes and those who want to trad lead will. my $0.02

Rolling Thunder is a fine outing for the leader but given the position of the last bolt and the belay anchors on the large ledge, if the second messes up after unclipping the last bolt the swing would be bad and into the walls and ledges just below the belay ledge. This route really should have its own top anchors somewhere just above the last bolt. Since Jon Stewart is the FA does anyone know how to get ahold of him and find out if he is cool with a separate top anchor? Thoughts?

Correct url: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ele/4482383505.html.

3 cams for rock climbing all in great shape with no falls, $25/cam $65 all three Metolius QuadCam 7 Metolius TriCam 0 Black Diamond Micro Quad 1 Text 206.240.6991 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/4491646447.html

I've got this: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ele/4482383505.html

Found a climbing shoe on the top of Moscow last Memorial Day weekend. Mad Rock Size 43 Contact me if it's yours or send me the left one since it's about my size.

Does Trinity have a set of top anchors or is it bush whack to a tree up there? Last time I used Kamikaze anchors as I'm highly sensitive to the poison oak stuff. Thx

Bryan, How about 1pm and that gives you the morning to pack and then you can go to Smith from OZ? Topher 206.240.6991

Looking for a partner to hit Ozone Friday afternoon...yep tomorrow! I'm free from 12-1pm for the afternoon. Have rack, rope etc and looking for competent partner. Thx Topher 206.240.6991

new listing link: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/4447066949.html

This pack used for a ski mountaineering trip 2x - wrong sizing $95 Portland area can deliver to Seattle Text me at 206.240.6991 Ed Viesturs favorite Himalayan hauling pack The Mountain Hardwear South Col 70 Backpack MEDIUM SIZE - 70 LITERS or 4300 CU.IN Light, flexible and roomy, this pack is the perfect one-pack solution for expedition climbing. Removable top lid Hydration bag pocket Top loading pack Ski loops Extra lightweight waist belt included Flexible design concept allows suspension and bag components to be removed to significantly reduce weight when not needed Versatile Alpine suspension provides outstanding stability, comfort and support Highly functional Alpine Compression Strap System with glove-friendly buckles secures overloads, effectively shrinks pack to minimal volume, and tucks away inside front panel pocket when not needed Skirt extension adds 500 cubic inches / 8L of carrying capacity when needed Flap Top design allows pack to be used without the top lid with no compromise in compression or weather-protection Durable front panel offers lash points for all kinds of mountaineering gear SPECIFICATIONS of the Mountain Hardwear South Col 70 Backpack Body: 100D HT Ripstop Dobby Nylon Accent: Hardwear X-Ply Ripstop Bottom: 840D HT Ballistic Nylon Weight: 3 lbs 8 oz Capacity: 4300 cubic inches / 70 liter Torso Range: 17" - 20" / 43 - 51 cm Waistbelt Size: 30" - 35" / 76 - 89 cm

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Price: $95 Size: Small I've got a brand new in the package pair of OR Alti Gloves and liners. They are a technical alpine climbing glove and retail for $160 Great deal! These are in Portland. 206.659.6961 text me Check out the link for size chart and more info Link: http://www.outdoorresearch.com/en/mens/gloves/alti-gloves.html

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