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MrGecko

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  1. For identification markings on the bolt head, these HCA/Hilti coil anchor lag bolts have the traditional three lines indicating a Grade 5 bolt as well as the letters CY & C stamped on them. If you see this then they are likely one of these HCA bolts.
  2. The old coil bolt looks like a lag bolt, a grade 5 zinc plated lag bolt. If it had a coil originally it's obviously not working now. The new replacement also looks like a zinc plated mild steel bolt. The chains are zinc and the color matches. Give it 10 years and you won't trust it because of rust. Buck, the image you are looking at is both the original bolts and the original MadRock SS hangers not the replacements. Replacements look like this:
  3. It sounds like you are bolting with these Hanman? What route was that and where? Can you provide more information on your test setup, the rock type and age of these anchors etc. We didn't find any coils in the holes and after 1/2 turn these slipped out by hand. Hilti recommends them for non permanent installations and indoor conditions. -Fastening braces to support tilt-up and formwork - Non-specified, temporary fastenings Please do not bolt with non stainless steel equipment and follow the current ASCA practices and recommendations. Just because you did not find the coil in the hole does not mean they were not in there. I am an eye witness to those bolts being placed. They had a coil sleeve..... Kev, sounds like you were there when Josh put those in and it looks like that coil is integral to the function of the bolt, what do you think?
  4. It sounds like you are bolting with these Hanman? What route was that and where? Can you provide more information on your test setup, the rock type and age of these anchors etc. We didn't find any coils in the holes and after 1/2 turn these slipped out by hand. Hilti recommends them for non permanent installations and indoor conditions. -Fastening braces to support tilt-up and formwork - Non-specified, temporary fastenings Please do not bolt with non stainless steel equipment and follow the current ASCA practices and recommendations.
  5. A general Portland vicinity rebolting effort is under way and during a session at Ozone these anchors were discovered on the route called The Crumbling as well as used for top anchors on the route Meth Rage. These are lag bolts and were driven into a drilled hole as is. This is why education regarding bolting is important. Anyone can basically buy a drill and start assembling a sport route with little to no instruction. Others think they can save a few dollars here and there but in the end its your neck that is hung on the line or maybe placed in a cast if not worse. Support your local rebolting efforts with the ASCA but donating. A month's gym membership fee would be a good donation amount. Donate here: http://mazamas.org/about-us/donate-to-the-mazamas/ Be safe out there!
  6. A general Portland vicinity rebolting effort is under way and during a session at Ozone these anchors were discovered on the route called The Crumbling as well as used for top anchors on the route Meth Rage. These are lag bolts and from what we can tell were driven into a drilled hole as is. This is why education regarding bolting is important. Anyone can basically buy a drill and start assembling a sport route with little to no instruction. Others think they can save a few dollars here and there but in the end its your neck that is hung on the line or maybe placed in a cast if not worse. Support your local rebolting efforts with the ASCA but donating. A month's gym membership fee would be a good donation amount. Be safe out there!
  7. What: BIG WALL TIPS & TRICKS with Mark Hudon When: Thursday March 26th, 2015 5:30pm Where: ClubSport Ascent Climbing Center, 18120 SW Lower Boones Ferry Rd, Tigard, OR 97224 More information & signup: http://mazamas.org/education-classes/clinics-and-special-presentations/
  8. Biners $2.50/pc Portland, OR
  9. UPDATED 2.11.15 ----------------- A bunch of guides with condition listed. I will ship via Media Mail from Portland. ARIZONA Squeezing The Lemon, E.Fazio-Rhicard - NEW - $5 COLORADO Rock Climbing Colorado, S.Green - $5 San Luis Valley Climbing/Bouldering, B.Antonio - $5 NEW MEXICO Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Sport Climbing in New Mexico, R.Jett - $10 Hikers & Climbers Guide to Sandals, M.Hill NEW - $10 ^^includes topo maps NEW YORK Gunks Trails, E.Henry NEW - $10 TEXAS Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 MISC Yuraq Janka Cordilleras Blanca and Rosko Peru, J.Ricker NEW $10
  10. I've done Hair Extensions using the arete on the right but took the off width variation to butt hole crack. Its full on M5 up to there and then eases into where the ice starts up. It can be dubious with Spectres and stubbies. But I have to agree with your logical tangible comment and definitely sagacious dude in both the first and second dimensions. Viva la China
  11. I got a pretty good deal going on some FiveTen Guide Tennie Interludes. A sweet approach shoe or big wall shoe. These are size 8.5, brand new in box with tags and I'm looking for $55 The Guide Tennie is the most-trusted approach shoe in history. FiveTen's proprietary Smedge Zone Toe delivers precision edging power and additional durability. The new ErgoNomic last has an athletic-fitting heel, Natural Toe, and form-fitting shape for walking comfort and climbing power. http://www.backcountry.com/five-ten-guide-tennie-approach-shoe-mens
  12. UPDATED 2.04.15 ----------------- A bunch of guides with condition listed. I will ship via Media Mail from Portland. ARIZONA Squeezing The Lemon, E.Fazio-Rhicard - NEW - $5 CALIFORNIA Mount Whitney Guide, P.Hellweg - $5 The High Sierra, R.Secor - $5 COLORADO Rock Climbing Colorado, S.Green - $5 San Luis Valley Climbing/Bouldering, B.Antonio - $5 NEW MEXICO Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Sport Climbing in New Mexico, R.Jett - $10 Hikers & Climbers Guide to Sandals, M.Hill NEW - $10 ^^includes topo maps NEW YORK Gunks Trails, E.Henry NEW - $10 TEXAS Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 MISC Yuraq Janka Cordilleras Blanca and Rosko Peru, J.Ricker NEW $10
  13. MrGecko

    Slick Rock

    What is the ice climbing like at Slick? Are the conditions favorable all year long?
  14. MSR Fuel Bottles I have the following bottles including white gas for $15 each: 1 x 22oz/650ml 2 x 33oz/975ml Portland pickup only, can't ship fuel. Thx
  15. UPDATED 11.14.14 ----------------- A bunch of guides with condition listed. I will ship via Media Mail from Portland. CANADA Bugaboo Rock, 2nd Ed., R.Green & J.Bensen - NEW - $15 ALASKA Denali Climbing Guide, R.Secor - NEW - $10 ARIZONA Squeezing The Lemon, E.Fazio-Rhicard - NEW - $5 Queen Creek Canyon, M.Karabing - $50 CALIFORNIA South Lake Tahoe Climbing, C.McNamara, Supertopo - NEW - $15 Yosemite Climbs BIG Walls, D.Reid - $10 Yosemite Select, Best Yosemite Climbing, D.Reid NEW - $10 Yosemite Valley Free Climbs, Supertopo - $15 Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows, D.Reid - $10 Mount Whitney Guide, P.Hellweg - $5 The High Sierra, R.Secor - $5 COLORADO Rock Climbing Colorado, S.Green - $5 San Luis Valley Climbing/Bouldering, B.Antonio - $5 KENTUCKY Selected Climbs at Red River Gorge, P.Jarrard NEW - $5 NEW MEXICO Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Sport Climbing in New Mexico, R.Jett - $10 Hikers & Climbers Guide to Sandals, M.Hill NEW - $10 ^^includes topo maps NEW YORK Gunks Trails, E.Henry NEW - $10 TEXAS Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Hueco Tanks, P.Piana NEW - $5 UTAH Too Much Rock Not Enough Life, T.Goss - $5 WASHINGTON Rock Climbing Washington, J.Smoot, - $5 Rock Climbs of Central Washington, R.LaBelle, NEW - $5 A Guide to Climbing in Spokane Area, B.Loomis, NEW - $10 MISC Yuraq Janka Cordilleras Blanca and Rosko Peru, J.Ricker NEW $10
  16. NOV 12, 2014 I'm officially kicking it off with this set of photos from the recent polar vortex. This should start building more over the next two days. Hamilton Mt from Hwy 14 Upper Hamilton Mt Table Mt
  17. Books added to original list and organized by state: A bunch of guides with condition listed. I will ship via Media Mail from Portland. CANADA Bugaboo Rock, 2nd Ed., R.Green & J.Bensen - NEW - $15 ALASKA Denali Climbing Guide, R.Secor - NEW - $10 ARIZONA Squeezing The Lemon, E.Fazio-Rhicard - NEW - $5 Queen Creek Canyon, M.Karabing - $50 CALIFORNIA South Lake Tahoe Climbing, C.McNamara, Supertopo - NEW - $15 Yosemite Climbs BIG Walls, D.Reid - $10 Yosemite Select, Best Yosemite Climbing, D.Reid NEW - $10 Yosemite Valley Free Climbs, Supertopo - $15 Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows, D.Reid - $10 Mount Whitney Guide, P.Hellweg - $5 The High Sierra, R.Secor - $5 COLORADO Rock Climbing Colorado, S.Green - $5 San Luis Valley Climbing/Bouldering, B.Antonio - $5 KENTUCKY Selected Climbs at Red River Gorge, P.Jarrard NEW - $5 NEW MEXICO Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Sport Climbing in New Mexico, R.Jett - $10 Hikers & Climbers Guide to Sandals, M.Hill NEW - $10 ^^includes topo maps NEW YORK Gunks Trails, E.Henry NEW - $10 TEXAS Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Hueco Tanks, P.Piana NEW - $5 UTAH Too Much Rock Not Enough Life, T.Goss - $5 WASHINGTON Rock Climbing Washington, J.Smoot, - $5 Rock Climbs of Central Washington, R.LaBelle, NEW - $5 A Guide to Climbing in Spokane Area, B.Loomis, NEW - $10 MISC Yuraq Janka Cordilleras Blanca and Rosko Peru, J.Ricker NEW $10
  18. PETZL NOMICS - $475 Brand new in the bag haven't cracked them open still with tags. $475 for the pair - winter is comin and you know you want to tag that waterfall Will consider a trade for a double portaledge. Located in Portland
  19. I definitely agree that parties should discuss it before hand as there may be financial constraints on one or both parties and from evidence in this thread, fundamental differences in opinion. However, if money is not a question and both have adequate resources I feel that personal gear losses should be at the expense of the individual who was in control of it at the time. Stuck gear and ropes aside - as its impossible to say someone's skill or lack thereof resulted in a pulled rope getting stuck or that a leader placed gear poorly vs. the skill of the 2nd is lacking. I look at it this way, if I neglect to follow simply securing someones gear on a ledge when it is a simple thing to do and it results in a loss, then I would expect to compensate them. Same goes if I was to borrow a friend's cell phone or SLR camera for a trip. If I go on a trip and take their camera and subsequently lose or damage it should they pay 1/2 or get zero reimbursement? They had no control over the item when they weren't even present. Accidents happen but neglect to follow procedure has consequences and subsequent personal responsibility.
  20. Books added to original list and organized by state: A bunch of guides with condition listed. I will ship via Media Mail from Portland. CANADA Bugaboo Rock, 2nd Ed., R.Green & J.Bensen - NEW - $15 ALASKA Denali Climbing Guide, R.Secor - NEW - $10 ARIZONA Squeezing The Lemon, E.Fazio-Rhicard - NEW - $5 Queen Creek Canyon, M.Karabing - $50 CALIFORNIA South Lake Tahoe Climbing, C.McNamara, Supertopo - NEW - $15 Yosemite Climbs BIG Walls, D.Reid - $10 Yosemite Select, Best Yosemite Climbing, D.Reid NEW - $10 Yosemite Valley Free Climbs, Supertopo - $15 Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows, D.Reid - $10 Mount Whitney Guide, P.Hellweg - $5 The High Sierra, R.Secor - $5 COLORADO Rock Climbing Colorado, S.Green - $5 San Luis Valley Climbing/Bouldering, B.Antonio - $5 KENTUCKY Selected Climbs at Red River Gorge, P.Jarrard NEW - $5 NEW MEXICO Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Sport Climbing in New Mexico, R.Jett - $10 Hikers & Climbers Guide to Sandals, M.Hill NEW - $10 ^^includes topo maps NEW YORK Gunks Trails, E.Henry NEW - $10 TEXAS Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - $10 Hueco Tanks, P.Piana NEW - $5 UTAH Too Much Rock Not Enough Life, T.Goss - $5 WASHINGTON A Guide to Climbing in Spokane Area, B.Loomis - New - $10 MISC Yuraq Janka Cordilleras Blanca and Rosko Peru, J.Ricker NEW $10
  21. FYI Frenches Dome over near Mt Hood just had a major rebolting effort. Tons of crap came off and new goods installed. Here is a repost from the rebolting team leader Micah Klesick: Went out to French's Dome yesterday and replaced bolts. Thanks so much to Matt and Katy Hoechlin, Scott Robertson (Head of Nike's Climbing Program), Rob Holzman and Jess Holzman, Sam Horack, and Erik Matthew Jenson. They all came out and together we replaced about 25 bolts, effectively finishing the re-bolting of French's Dome for the next few years at least. Several bolts pulled out by hand, and many more snapped with only a 1/4 turn of the frozen washer. Kind of scary. Here is a list of what we replaced: Replaced starting bolt to Tin Tangle/OZ Replaced 5 out of 8 bolts on Alpha and the anchor. Added Rap Rings Replaced 7 bolts on Static Cling, and removed 5 extra bolts and an old piton Replaced two bolts on Giant's Staircase, and removed an extra bolt, and fixed a badly positioned hanger. Replaced two bolts on Yellow Brick Road (left the old bolts for history's sake) Replaced Rap anchor on the front - added rap rings Replaced anchor to Dirty Deeds (AKA Silverstreak) - removed three old anchor bolts and added rap rings Replaced anchor to Crankenstien - removed three old anchor bolts - added rap rings Replaced anchor to Pump-o-Rama - removed two newer anchor bolts (but very poorly done and unsafe) - Added rap rings. NOW READ THIS IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1130235/Aging_Bolts_and_Other_Scary_Ta#Post1130235
  22. But seriously... READ IT! http://www.climbing.com/climber/built-to-last/
  23. I'm looking for your opinion on how climbers typically handle this situation. Situation A - you are climbing a big wall and your partner unpacks things from the haulbag. They set things down on a ledge and neglect to clip them in or secure them. One of your items, let's say a sleeping bag or stuff sack full of clothing, falls off the ledge. Who is responsible for replacing the said items? Is the cost shared in this case? Situation B - you are climbing with a partner and a piece of gear, lets say a cam, gets stuck and they can't remove it. There isn't much time to deal with it or rap back down and see if you can get it out. Who is responsible for replacing the item? Is the cost shared in this case?
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