MrGecko

The block still exists in it precarious position. I did the same variation as Rad, #2. Same issues, making the crux moves while considering a fall into bad rock. I also pulled on the BIG block and it tilted before I quickly down climbed and pushed it back against the wall. It needs to go and a coordinated effort to manage the displacement of this monster should happen by those who know how to do it safely. I call this route Bicycling to the Chopping Block. Good question. I tried to climb B to B on Friday, and since looked at the guide (old Bruce version). Here is my assessment: There are three routes/variations right of Insomnia. They are: 1 - B to B. This starts in the hand crack (shared with Insomnia), goes up two bolts, veers slightly right into a 5.easy crack up high, and traverses right under the roof, clips a bolt at the lip of the roof, and goes to the chains. The very last moves under the roof that are the crux and the rest is much easier. 2 - Start at the anchor at the base of Insomnia, start up on a slanting chossy band, climb straight up quite soon on some highly textured black rock with few features (5.10 something) past two bolts, continue up past the left edge of a giant flake (#3 camalot at its top works here), clip one more bolt, place one piece (#1 camalot) in the upper crack, traverse right under the roof (joins B to B here), clip bolt at roof lip, up to chains. This is a fun climb that is more varied and runout than other routes in this area, and I thought that was a nice change. The moves under the roof are not the crux. 3 - Start as for 2 but keep diagonalling right on the crappy band (don't fall here as pro is not available), pass a small tree/bush (sling or you are looking at groundfall), over a small roof past two bolts, up the face with 1.5"-2" gear in a shallow crack, come straight up to the final roof-lip bolt (join 1 and 2 here), and up to the chains. 2 and 3 are not in the old addition of the NB guide. I climbed 2, sort of, and it was pretty fun. I followed what seemed the natural line for 2, which was diagonalling right on the ramp and then up onto the face. The problem was that this left me traversing back to the 2nd bolt, making 5.10 moves and looking at a fall that would have dropped me onto the broken rock below. If you know who put in the bolts please send me a pm as I have a question. WARNING! There is a giant block that you layback on the left route. When my partner was following I noticed the block rocks as he pulled on it. This block is 4' x 6' x 1' and it seems to only be held in place by a small corner down and right. It would be REALLY bad if this comes off while people are on the route. It would also likely obliterate several bolts and much of the route(s) below. FYI, you can link the lower approach pitch with any of the upper routes, but consider using long slings to manage ropedrag. You can rap to the ground with a single 60m rope from the chains. Go get some.

Where is Peter Puget on this subject - I thought that guy would have some historical perspective to add.

Climbing from morning to mid afternoon. All grades - just for fun. Updated: partner found

The Eastern 5.7 route called EB4 has no bolts on it. I also noticed the guide calls it EB4 on one page and EB5 on the other?!?

Joe, is possible I will know Sun night. I'm in a WOFA course this weekend.

Looking to get out tomorrow morning for a session. Need to be back early afternoon. Looking to hit the Eastern Block area(s) for a little volume. Thanks

I could get under the roof and pop both hands on to the lip and then pull up. Heaving up over the lip requires a bit of juice...Why not 10d easier if your short? I see routes like the second pitch of City Park say 10b harder if your short.

Climbed at the "new" Shakespeare wall yesterday and found it a bit dirty. Not sure how much traffic it has seen and pulled a hold off Macbeth. I did see a route on the way up to the wall across the talus that looks new. Anyone have any beta to share on that one?

Kevbone - please keep it on the low so we can avoid the spray etc. on the partners forum no plans for any fixing it seems just fine as it is

I can't tomorrow already engaged. Its also not a great day to be on that route. 81F in North Bend and no clouds. It will be a cooker unless you get underway very early. I can check in with my partner and if shes ok you can join in for local outing.

>>There is no way that I could climb it that fast. you'd be surprised, I learned a bunch when I did it and am now ready to break that PR. However I'd be up for a training run. fire guy with Seattle's Ballard station. Not too many SFD ice climbing types.

Do you happen to know a guy by the name of Pope? SFD/ice climber type.

I read that the record for car to car stands here: Car to Car - 6:11 23 Pitches - 3:20 Descent - 1:51

Malcolm - see 512's earlier post: This is the north facing wall up above the old railway line and between the Change Creek and Hall Creek trestles

Interested in speed climbing it?

That is quite a point spread on a potential rating - 6 grades. Thanks for the work on the route!

Question for you Index types. Smoot's old old WA State guide calls Free At Last a four pitch route that shares a start with Tatoosh. However, Cummins guide has it the other way round. Sky Valley Rock looks like it says the same thing as Smoot. In another thread Peter Puget gives the impression he agrees with Cummins. Does anyone know the facts?