bwwakaranai
-
Posts
184 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by bwwakaranai
-
-
We've lost way too many good ones in the last few years. Thoughts and condolences to his family and friends
-
So stoked that you chitlins' are getting into it. I think Yuna is gonna next year too especially if she sees you kids doing it. Kompai to a sweet 2016!
-
Nice job Eric! You're getting strong
-
5 climbing accomplishments 2015
5 to do in 2016?
2015
1. Didn't bite it on Les Cornes and had a very memorable climb despite 100 degree temps and lots of alders
2. Sent a project at 7 Mile and named it the "Missing Lynx" after spotting a Lynx casually trotting down the road the week before.
3. Climbed "Ancient Melodies" on Exfo Dome in January
4. Had one of the best trips of my life to Pasyten Wilderness which included a magical FA we called "Faith" up an unclimbed face with Mr. Rad Roberts
5. Enjoyed a wonderful trip up Northwest Corner with my woman, her first year of climbing and first real multi-pitch
2016 goals
1. Bugaboos
2. Project at 7 Mile
3. Back to Pasyten for more goodness
4. Open a climbing gym
5. Get my daughter on some Squamish Rock
Happy New Year all!
-
A lot of history at that gym, really stoked you guys are keeping it alive for all to enjoy!
-
Psychopath and pressure chamber I onsighted not as bad as Rightwing at Squamish which is graded easier than those 2. Shredded me both times I tried it on that Fillabuster pitch....awesome climb though
-
I'll second the Hidden Dragon Rad.....perfect name.
And add
Xin-11c 7 Mile
Missing Lynx- 11c 7 Mile
Outsourced- 12a 7 Mile
The Idiot Box- 11d 7 Mile
Unemployment Line- 11d 7 Mile
Scrub Tech- 11c 7 Mile
Purdy Mouth- 11a Coal Crag
Cahullawssee- 11b Coal Crag
Right Wing- 10d Squamish
Pratts Crack- 5.9+++++++ Pine Creek CA
And for some damn reason.....last pitch of Heaven's Gate fools me every damn time!!!!
None of the 7 Mile routes are sandbagged but will fool most people the first time around, which makes for a rewarding onsight if you do get it.
Cool thread!
-
I did not know him but reading these posts it's obvious he had the spirit and shared that energy with many others. RIP and condolences to all his friends and family.
-
Yep, if I would have read the TR prior, I might have thought to do the clip thing. The biner is back up there again for the next guy/gal
-
Trip: Mamie Peak - Ellation
Date: 9/12/2015
Trip Report:
What an excellent summer of climbing it has been despite some really hot days, fires, high winds, rain, sleet, and way too much work. For a busy daddy like myself, there might be a chance to squeeze in 1 or 2 more days of solid multi-pitch climbing in before chalking up another wonderful NW rock season.
Elation had been on our checklist for a while now and we were determined to NOT overlook it for ventures further from home. Elation did not disappoint as it offered 8 solid pitches of climbing practically in the backyard.
Since Thad and I live in Mount Vernon and Stanwood, we usually flock to Darrington to get our clean granite, slabtastic fix. While Mamie Peak has a "Darrington like" feel, it also has a flavor of its own. Be sure to have your comfy shoes on for the friction crux but also take comfort in knowing you'll get to put your hands on some facial features too.
There are already some great TRs and topos for this route on MP and cc.com so no need to get too detailed, but it should be said that if you live in Bellingham, climb at this grade, and have not done this route.....you should be ashamed of yourself
Pitch 2, thin fingers, don't plug up your jams with cams. This pitch felt harder than 10- to me. It didn't help that I kicked a cam out as I stood up thus scaring the piss out of me. Fun stuff never the less.
.Pitch 3 10+ friction Of course the friction pitch is the crux for me. It's reasonable if you climb it smart. I was not smart the first try but then wised up.
.Pitch 4 The best pitch of the climb. Super cool and strange moves. At one point both Thad and I let both feet go swinging off of monkey jugs. We thought we were at the gym for a moment but then felt our sunburned faces and only then realized we were slab climbing
Thad starting up Pitch 5. A little grainy bit of rot but who cares you're climbing
Valley View
Pitch 6. Cool ramp, easy run-out to some well protected 5.10...sweet. Note: don't be surprised if you have to climb this pitch twice. There was a bail biner on an upper bolt which was kinda weird but we found out why it was there on our way down.
Pitch 7 10+???. Cool friction on the edge. This pitch felt easier than pitch 2 to me but then again I was on a top rope. Sorry to crink your neck, not sure why these last two pics are sideways.
Pitch 8 11b. great way to cap it off. The opening moves are steep and juggy and the crux is short lived. It took me a while to figure it out but you get a nice stance right before pulling the move. There is a tree stump that is too inviting to not pull on but everybody knows that trees are IN in the NW
whatever....super cool finale to a super cool climb.
Gear Notes:
Rack of singles to 3", wires, 1 70m rope...60m will be short on rappels.
Approach Notes:
Drive to Hannegan Pass trailhead, Mamie is the big, terraced cliff to the left. A good topo and approach notes can be found on MP. Approach is short and steep, only takes about and hour.
-
Damn that looks sweet! Stellar is right. Such a wonderful area
-
Hahaha.....that was funny
Seriously, have you tried the partner section of this site? I've had pretty good luck over the years...only had to pepper spray one or two people but they weren't on lead or anything.
If you are honest about your experience level you should have pretty good luck finding another noob or someone willing to show you the ropes. There are many aging crusty climbers on this site who will need a young rope gun sooner than later.
-
It's a small world. Let's get out climbing sometime Eric!
-
Awesome looking trip guys! I can't wait to check out the U.S. Side someday. nice to meet you today Eric and good to see Dave out and about too. Hope you got your water purifier to work. -Brandon
-
I believe so but it sure appears to have a separate identity, especially when viewed from the basin. It seems to be separated by a rather large gully and depending on the viewpoint looks anywhere from a continuation of the ridge line to a completely separate mountain. From Grimface it looks like a crumbly mess but up close its solid rock....not without its fair share of death blocks, most of which were removed off of "Faith". Cheers to you Rad for having the foresight that the line would go. I had my doubts but you never did.
-
One of the very best all around climbing trips I've taken. Beautiful area, solid climbing, with one hell of a climbing partner. Looking forward to getting back out there and checking out the other side of the border some day too! Faith is so cool, I really didn't think the mid section would go and then to have it come together at 5.7*** was a pleasant surprise
-
Ps. On the long hard corner pitch, Dont be drawn to the big chimney and stay on the dirt choked tips corner, which if cleaned would be outstanding. The chimney was drawing me in at first but the seam in the back is tight knife blade size which was only really apparent when we viewed from the top.
-
Nice TR Rad. I think you described it superbly. The gps was appreciated as I greatly underestimated the approach. Rad did a fabulous job of negotiating the bushwhack. Definelty try to milk that old growth as much as you can and use our descent route. I thought I read on a TR that there is a totally different approach now...anyone? The Rock was amazing especially the initial pitches. I'm not sure how many climbers have done that upper 11+ corner in the last 6 years but it didn't seem like anyone had. It would be a hard send even with the gear placements I dug out since you still need other spots out for your finger tips. That 5.8 OW felt more like 10b/c in Squamish. I think you downplayed the heat Rad. I think it was 90+ degrees with direct sun exposure. Dehydration was the crux of this adventure for me. Thankfully there was water in the descent gully. Should be water for at least a few more weeks but come late summer I'm guessing the water window closes. Awesome, awesome route! I hope those roads hold up for a few more years.
-
I might be able to. He lives in NV now and I work part of his old job.
PM me your contact info and which routes you're wondering about. I'll try to relay the message.
-Brandon
-
Now that's getting it done. Thanks for the TR gentlemen, great stuff!
-
Just a heads up for anyone making the journey up to Iron mt. Crag. The initial turn off
onto rd. 1775 has a sign stating that the road is closed but I have been informed by the forest service that the road is indeed open and use as you wish. Be aware of large logging vehicles!
-Brandon
-
Stoked to see people finally getting out there! There are some classic routes for sure. The initial slabby section of the formation has some pretty slick serpentine but the rest of the crag does have some decent friction doesn't it.
Did you get the send on the project???!!!
I've come really close but haven't linked the red-point yet... success with a couple falls.
We were calling it Yin Dao because of the vagina like feature near the top that wants to spit you out. Beautiful sport route! Grade Erik???
If you havent done Xin, Red Panda, Outsourced, Unemployment Line, Idiot Box and Scrub Tech those are all great 11's outsourced maybe being 12. Potential for harder shit too ya'll!
-Brandon
-
-
SSAWWWEEET!
and thanks for the update!
Riverstone Climbing Gym In Burlington WA
in Climbing Gyms
Posted
We are now open and ready for sending! Whether you're looking for the steeps, technical, or steep and technical we've got something for you. The kids have plenty to do as well and we usually have an instructor available for free belays and/or instruction with the parents. $48/month early bird special available for your first 4 months of membership and waived initiation fee. Located at 1625 Walnut St. S. in Burlington, WA behind K-Mart.