bwwakaranai

Thanks Chris, Ill check into Fairhaven Books, sounds perfect. and well said Rad. I need to get the next generation up on some of these routes I can't finish too

I'd be all for that idea if there was someone who might want to collaberate. Its sort of a homegrown idea, just so you know. I Was going to bind at home and photo topos are J-peg quality so no frills. There are around 130+ pitches listed so far so I think its worthy of some documentation. I know of Bat Caves, Gov Lister, Larabee, Mt. Baker Rocks, and I hear of some goodies up by Hannagen Pass. One advantage of binding at home is that there could be versions 1, 1.25, 1.50 etc. More than whatcom area it would be really neat to complete the Skagit co crags by getting some info on Equinox and Split rock. We could even leave out approach beta if access is an issue. I mostly want to see a complete list of routes done out here since tis is mehome and there is surprisingly a wealth of great climbing in the Skagit lowlands, and I also welcome traffic on the 30+ pitches I've put up. Everyone who's put a brush to the rock out here knows that the the black stuff will be back without some action.

Perfect Mason! Thanks for the link. Ill get up there to try and take some pics for topos. If you guys have any climbing action shots you might want to contribute, send them my way. -Brandon

You mean the first one on the main wall with the credit card edges? Loved that one! So much easier than some of the "10b" slab pitches at the end of the route, but maybe that's just me. Oh yeah, sustained fun!

Hey great Steve! I have a cut and staple guide he gave to me but Id love to check it out and hear about some of the routes you guys did out there.

I forgot to add, and probably most importantly... Please include any stories, pictures, history, etc. Related to Dallas Kloke and these areas. My history with Dallas was somewhat dissconnect from others who had climbed with him. It would be great to hear about some of your adventures with him especially at the previously mentioned crags. He was the one who introduced me to the potential in the Skagit. I owe him a lot but alas I can never give back what he has given to me, beyond a glimpse into a past adventure. I think he is looking down on us smiling, and glad that we continue to play on the same cliffs he came to cherish. bwwakaranai@gmail.com

I know there has been a few others developing routes at Cumberland Crags and other Skagit cliffs. My recent hobby has been to compile a list of routes put up in the area in hopes to eventually making a Skagit County guidebook. While my budget is low, motivation is high, and the more I climb these cliffs the more I'm attracted to them. So far areas include Cumberland Crags (7 Mile, Coal, and Iron Mt), Umbrella Rock, Calendar Butte, an Erie Select, and Rosario. Would I love to add Split Rock and Equinox Rock. Yes...but If you have any new route info, history, pictures, stories, or beta to any of these places mentioned and are willing to share your experiences, please contact me as I hope to start making a demo copy this winter. Thanks, -Brandon

Jim- that's excellent! Dallas would be very happy. I have been working on a skagit county rock guide for some time now with the main focus being Dallas's Cumberland Crags but also describing routes for Umbrella Rock, Calendar Butte, and an Erie selection of its better routes. I'm working with zero budget and will be binding books myself in the basement so it won't be anything fancy... J-peg photo picture topos, etc. It will however describe around 130+ climbs that are little known here in the Skagit foothills. As far as Erie routes that I've been involved with, there are only a couple "Clipped My Wings"- 10c Brandon Workman, Dallas Kloke Starts off the "Springboard" ledge, inbetween last pitch of "On Eagles Wings" and the "Springboard". Left trending crack features (no gear) to a crux throw through a polished section. Some moves through a pod then easy featured slab climbing. Shares anchor with "On Eagles Wings". 6 bolts "Sludge Trudge"-11b/c on the "Moss Wall" Brandon Workman Traverse the seam then straight up through the bulge connecting with "Clean And Jerk" to some chains. 6 bolts If you have any questions feel free to call 360-421-3880 Brandon

Anybody? Id like to get the newer stemmed camalots...I guess everyone else does too

Pitch 2 of Holy Grail...199.25ft. Cruising face, to a sweet tips corner, back to excellent face climbing on orangish features that make you say "Ah yeah!". When you bring up your second, you pull about half a foot of rope up. Good stuff. Pitch 4 of The Page....knob fest, a move in a corner, to more knobs, to a paper thin flake that feels like it will snap in your hand but somehow doesn't, to more knobs, to an unlikely undercling move, to diagonal features that are facing the wrong way to pull on. Nice sustained pitch...crux, stance...crux, stance...crux, then stance all the way up. The real Pitch 1 of Center Stage.... sustained and beautiful and pretty close to a full 200ft.

Ramutas I've resoled about 15 pairs of shoes through the years. Never been disapointed By his work. I've tried rubber room, D. Page, C. Cobbler,and Ramutas work is a step above the others mentioned ImO.

Cams sold!

Right Wing (Squamish) not a giveaway Penny Lane (Squamish) giveaway Westcrack (Tuloumne) giveaway Next route to the right Cresent Arch (stout) 1st pitch of Lamplighter (Index) not a giveaway Side show (Index same wall, rated lower than P1 Lamplighter) don't think so... Overboard extension (Smith) Ill take it...but its a giveaway compared to Licence To Bolt also at Smith Doninis Crack (City Of Rocks) pretty tough Sea Biscuit (also at the city) easiest 12c on the planet Point is that every climbing area I've ever been to has some stout climbs and some giveaways. I can't think of any exceptions can you?

Cool Mark, I heard a good time was had by all. Hey- do you think you could send me the link for your new exfo climb?Id like to get one more in at Darrington this year and never been on exfo before. Is it difficult to distinguish starts to the climbs?

My buddy got some tree sap on his rope from tying it off while doing some tr solo. A section of rope remained stiff after a few days. What do you think? Is it unsafe to use now?Even after working the rope back and forth its still pretty rigid.

Rock fall smashed the second bolt hanger on pitch6 (depending how you count them). Its the beautiful 5.9+ ramp pitch. Bolt is fine there is now a sling threaded through the mushed hanger but if anyone ventures up there bring a hanger (3/8") and wrench. The middle 3 pitches on this route contain some outstanding face climbing that should not be missed. A couple of people who have recently climbed it thought that the crux pitch 4 was 11- but calling it sustained 5.10 would probably be on par with the other Illusion Wall climbs. Give it a go and see what you think.

checked out Rosario earlier this year and the tops of the routes need some scrubbing. Bolts are getting a little rusty but Im betting that they're fine.

You know who you are, and you know what you did. Thanks a million. Climber on climber crime seems to be much more common these days. Its a shame when you cant even trust your own. If I see you with my hammer in D-town I will shake your hand and give you a cold beer because its obvious you are a climber in need and I dont fuck my own kin like you do. So enjoy it and the other items you ripped off. Put them to good use ok. Just remember how you got them everytime you hit the shit out of your thumb.

I ended up moving here by chance but Mount Vernon has done me well. Quite a bit of good local rock, close to Darrington, close to Cascade National Park, not too far from Index for a day trip, jump on hwy 20 for some WA Pass action, Bellingham just up the road but its half the expense and closer to local climbing, far enough from Squamish you wont want to do a day trip but a two day is worth it, cost of living is cheap cheap cheap but it is a bit ghetto. Food is not so great but nearby Anacortes has some real nice restaurants. Im told there is a little bit of nightlife in Anacortes but Im a hermit so I cant say. The winter days are limited for sure but I climb at least one day outside every month of the year. We need a gym in town or in Bellingham! Whats up with the Fulcrum gym guys? But thats another topic.

Actually Darryl was probably referring to his and Chris's new route "Schizo". The Page is only 5.10 and way less sustained, though it still has its moments. Darryl bought me a way better wall hammer than what I had, but thats the kind of guy he is. Good man. Schizo looks awsome for sure, cant wait to try it too. Soon...

We should be getting some good days by then, but you can also get shut out in the springtime. I bet you'd get some climbing in though its not guaranteed like central Oregon is. The climbing in this state is wonderful... when you can climb it. Partners shouldnt be too difficult to round up from this site or elsewhere. PM me when you make it up this way. Cheers, -Brandon

Looking for two more, leaving B-ham/Mount Vernon to City Of Rocks/Castle Rocks ID,SLC area (Little Cottonwood, American Fork)and a slim chance all the way to Indian Creek. We just ask that you pitch in your 1/4 of the gasoline and that you dont mind listening to Cannible Corpse or Slayer for 15 hours straight just kidding.

Thats funny...I just inquired about the sign thing. I emailed the city and was told that they would probably support that idea but would want to involve the mt. Erie climbing committee which consists of a few local climbers/hikers. I emailed back and havent heard about when we might get a thumbs up or not. There are some sensitive areas that skim private property and it would be good to have a plan before nailing up signs. Signs would not only help new climbers find their way but also cut down the erosion and keep folks from trespassing. The April 21st Mt. Erie meet up and Dallas memorial day might be a good time to implement some signs. I was going to buy a woodburner and get to it but if you have already started I might refrain. I would love to at least put a little input on a couple of the sign placements if I could, being I've been stomping around there for some time now. Let me know what your plan is and I'll let you know if I hear from the city.

Badfinger, Bloodclot, Cruel Sister, Gruff, Rim Job, Wildfire are all awesome 5.10 cracks. Quasar is also great but a little heady up top if thats your max grade. Just climb anything with 2 or more stars and you cant go wrong.

It sure seems like climbers and birds could co-exist at the crags without so many closures, doesnt it? If the species are endangered then yes I can understand that, but in the cases mentioned above are we dealing with endangered birds or just one hobby against another (bird lovers vs. climbers)?