bearbreeder

wed have to see a drawing of the setup ... ive seen a nose hook on webbing and other such ...

looks like a nose hook failure to me ... an open gate failure looks a bit different as per the BD examples The photos below show typical failure locations for one style of carabiner tested in four different configurations. As you can see, a nose-hooked carabiner will most often break at the top of the spine, while open and closed gate failures typically occur at the bottom of the spine, and minor axis failures almost always occur at the gate. Nose Hooked Failure Open Gate Failure Bottom Line When a carabiner is loaded while the nose is hung-up on a bolt hanger, a leveraging open-gate scenario occurs. Carabiners are significantly weaker in this configuration—less than 10% of closed-gate strength. How to avoid this? Always ensure that the carabiner’s gate is closed and the carabiner is correctly seated. http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb-qclab/qclab/qc-lab-weakness-of-nosehooked-carabiners/

what are you lacking or least satisfied with on your current gear ... or if yr not certain ... weight the stuff and find out for $500 where you can save the most weight with little loss in functionality ...

colin ... read this on steph davis blog ... the mammut rep indicates that the 8.9 serenity is actually LESS durable sheath wise than the 8.5 genesis half rope ... choose the rope that works best for your intended usage ... http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/straight-from-the-mammoths-mouth-things-you-want-to-know-about-ropes/

buy the ones which feel best when you use em ... climb with as many different cams as possible before you buy ... people on the intrawebs tend to be more interested in telling you to do what they want you to do ... then having you decide for your self that said, i use C4s, dragons, zeros, tcus,link cams ... and have used master cams, DMM 4CU, friends, aliens, etc ... if i had to buy new stuff from scratch ... id probably get the dragons for the normal sizes and the mastercams for the smaller ones

whatever fits yr back the best with the gear youre going to carry ... features and light weight help, as does price ... but if the pack fits you must (fill in blank) ... i use an osprey mutant personally ...

did he eat it anyways protein and all?

petzl selena (or something like that) is the one the girl i climb with uses ... but the only real way is to go to the store and try em all on ... every gurl is different

give north van a call ... i saw one or two in stock the last time i was there in medium, same size as myself

whatever fits you best and has some foam inside ... hopefully its decently light and cheap ... i use petzls myself IMO it doesnt matter how light it is if it doesnt fit well ... you just wont wear it in that case

ill stand by my assertion that the atom lt doesnt really work for me active ... i prefer a fleece and windshirt, it may not be lighter but for me its more flexible and the fleece more breathable, if i bring my atom i use it for stops or moderate weather belays ... ill bring it this thurs/friday up the chief for belays it all depends on the person and what conditions they are using it for ... everyone has a different metabolism, and everybody is doing different things which is why there is no "best" except for what marketers would want you to believe ... its all opinions and what works for you i absolutely agree with the above poster that you can have all the fancy fabrics and garments in the world and still screw yourself over ... as in any sport there are those who use old gear/garments who do perform better than those with all the new shiny gear ... not to say that gear doesnt help, but it doesnt make up for other things for the OP .... have you tried seam sealing the leaking part? ... the dead bird javelin softshell is schoeller dryskin i believe ... if you like the fabric which is considered quite breathable as a woven (not membrane) softshell then you may want to consider the MEC ferrata 2 made of schoeller dryskin extreme at the non yuppie price of $140 ... i believe the BCMC or ACC has a 10% off sale at MEC soon as well i havent used it myself, i have heard good things about it from other people ... also buying from MEC allows you to return it if it doesnt work out... http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/MensClothing/WindwearSoftShells/PRD~5015-028/mec-ferrata-2-hoodie-mens.jsp This soft shell jacket offers a superb balance of light insulation, breathability, and weather-resistance. The close-fitting hood adds an extra degree of warmth and fits snugly beneath a helmet without restricting vision or mobility. The highly abrasion-resistant fabric is blended with spandex to ensure lots of stretch. This is a low-profile garment with just enough insulation to keep you warm in cold weather as long as you stay on the move. The fit is close but not tight, with ample room for layering over light or midweight underwear. Even though soft shell garments are suitable for a broad range of weather conditions, we recommend you carry an additional waterproof-breathable shell if you're travelling for several days, or if really nasty weather is expected. Made of Schoeller® Dryskin Extreme, a double weave fabric containing 80% nylon, 10% spandex, and 10% polyester. The fabric also features new NanoSphere® DWR (durable water repellency) technology. Schoeller has developed an environmentally sound process which introduces a new, durable surface texture to the fabric. Close-cut athletic fit with snug, but comfy hood. Chest pocket positioned high enough to avoid a harness belt. Small zippered accessory pocket on left bicep. Cozy microfleece-lined collar. Full front zip with full-length zipper flap. Slim fit description of yr dead bird i believe ... "A mixed weather softshell jacket incorporating new user friendly fabrics. Using a stretch woven Schoeller® fabric maintains breathability, while the 3X-Dry® application wicks away moisture. Mens: Weight: 465 grams / 16.4 ounces (M) Schoeller® Dryskin 300 - A stretch woven fabric with a brushed interior for superb comfort of wear and a nylon face exterior to fend off abrasion. This fabric incorporates a DWR finish to shed water, dirt and snow, a 3X Dry treatment for optimum moisture transfer, and anti-pill qualities for added durability. 600N PTFE Waterproof Breathable three-layer laminate with brushed polyester lining. A lower hem draw Drop hood utilizing both softshell and hardshell fabrics for ultimate fit Excellent breathability and super durable Full Front WaterTight' zipper Hybrid design enables great freedom of movement, with superb all weather protection 2 hand pockets 1 hidden chest pocket We are not able to ship Arcteryx products outside the US because of that other thing." hope that helps

4 link cams 7 tricams from 0.25-3 tri cams 2-3 tcus (purple and blue, maybe orange) and a set of nuts ... and youve got your effectively doubles in cams and nuts up to a #2 camalot ... all for about 1.25-1.5 kilos (2.5-3.5 lbs) add slings/draws and yr all set ... maybe a #3 camalot or equivalent hex .... its my standard easy-moderate rock multipitch (not alpine) rack ... unless the route calls for larger/more/smaller gear im very confident with it on anything 5.9 and under

i use the mammut phoenix 8mm as both doubles and twins ... i tend to use em as twins most of the time to simplify rope management ... ill split em into doubles for wandering pitches when required

a bit of my experience 1. if you run hot a dead bird atom is not an ideal choice IMO ... i run hot and find the double nylon and coreloft overly warm and hot the most breathable unless it quite cold ... i own and use one as a light belay jacket 2. any polartec powershield would not work that well for me if you are constantly active, i have owned dead bird gamma powershields, and find them not very brethable and overly warm for when moving ... for stop and go belayed climbing they arent bad, but for scrambling you overheat ... same with windstopper ... basically any membrane softshell 3. your best bet IMO if you MUST have a soft shell is a weave softshell ... dead bird makes em in the gamma lt, patagucci makes em ... but the one i currently use is a MH 50$ one i got ... you can often find em at discount stores ... in fact the bigger brand names often go on sale as long as you dont mind wearing "non exclusive" brands such as MH, NF, columbia, etc ... weave softshells are not as water or wind resistant as membrane softshells, but they are much more breathable, dry quicker and more affordable ... it is CRITICAL that you renew yr DWR very so often by washing, drying and treating it ... 4. you absolute best bet if you dont need the abrasion resistance is a nice windshirt ... either something like the marmot driclime, rab vaporise or a light fleece and plain old windshirt ... i use a mec R1 knockoff and a marmot trail wind when i dont need the abrasion resistance ... mec also has good windshirts for good prices ... the reason i say its better is because you get a softshell equivalent while retaining the flexibility of a fleece/winshirt with a combo ... you can just wear the windshirt and no fleece when going up hill and put the R1 on at flats or belayed climbing ... windshirts dry the quickest as they dont really get soaked for long, body heat will dry em off ... if you go driclime, the fuzzy interior will actually keep your skin less damp as it wicks away the moisture ... note that driclimes should be worn against either bare skin or a VERY light base layer 6. have you tried renewing the DWR on yr javelin? ... try washing it with DWR wash, rinse it a few times, and put it in the dryer for 30+ on medium heat ... usually thats all that is required ... many people complain that their jackets leak ... but in reality its CRITICAL to renew the DWR on softshells ... not saying thats the problem, but if you havent tried it ... you want to keep looking like a yuppie in a dead bird dontcha now 7. at the end of the day you will sweat heavily when going uphill if yr overdressed ... the trick with not sweating jacket out is to either not wear one, or if its raining wear something minimal underneath it ... and use yr zippers to ventilate ... the reason im quite suspicious of anyone claiming that something is "the best" (including myself) is that it is VERY condition dependant ... for example i could probably do an approach at -30C in my dead bird gamma/atom and be fine in the rockies, but do the same at 0C on the west coast and im sweatier than an overweight middle aged man in a strip club ... hope that helps

either purple and red or green and yellow which combo you go for depends if you want them more for finger or hands IMO no sense getting the ones closest to each other as the range is so big ... i own and use all 4 extensively ...

1. get a piece of flexible plastic like a mcdickies straw or some of that stuff they use around cardboard boxes 2. cut it to the length and wrap some tape around it around the sling of the tricam it a. makes the tricam easy to place one handed ... as easy as a nut ... b. makes the tricam a bit more succeptible to upward pull ... oh well no free lunch the biggest disadvantage to tricams IMO (other than untrained second cleaning issues) is their floppiness inhibits one handed placements ... with the mod just take the tricam, with the flick of the wrist you can get it ready for passive/active, and put it in the crack, pull to set it ... and yr good to go ... it also increases the reach which you can place the tricam by a few inches

mutters ... dead bird

i have and use all of em from black 0.25 to navy 3 ... black = blue camalot pink = grey camalot red = purple camalot brown = green camalot purple = red camalot blue = wide red/narrow yellow camalot navy = yellow camalot keeping those 7 tricams on one biner basically gives me a light set of doubles from 0.3 to #2 camalot with an extra piece to boot ... all for less than 400g i stiffen them up with the gunks mod and can place them one handed like nuts n cams

one of those sil patches on the inside ... silnet/seamgrip on around the edges of the patch and lathered on the outside ...

westcomb ...

Breathability ... That said expensive doesny always mean better or more breathable If u are going to use it on rock, id just get something that fits, is decently breathable, has deceny dwr, is under 6oz and packs ib its own pocket ... And is CHEAP ... As rock tears through my windshirts pretty quickly U can find them on sale all the time ...

weight wasnt a huge issue ... i just wanted to compare the weights before i bought ... it has either 2 8mm ... or a 9.5 and a 7mm static ... either is lighter than my current 10mm galaxy ...

as a note all mammut half ropes are actually tested for twin use as well now i just bought a set of 8mm ... worked out the weight for 70 m rope / 75m static ... and the difference is roughly 1-2 lbs for 9.2mm rope and 6/7mm static for 9.5 mm rope and 7mm static .. there is very little weight difference ... for 10 mm rope, the double 8mm weight less hope this helps ... 1st type 2nd type lbs phoenix 8mm phoenix 8mm 14.82 revelation 9.2mm mammut static 6mm 12.29 revelation 9.2mm mammut static 7mm 13.94 infinity 9.5mm mammut static 7mm 14.41 maxim pinnacle 9.5mm mammut static 7mm 14.87 galaxy 10mm mammut static 7mm 15.49

or MEC or other retailers with the same policy best way to bypass all the hoops from even companies with "good" CS it has to be a pretty good sale for me to NOT buy from REI/MEC ... or something i really want/need

new cierzo 25 ... im not the biggest fan of dead bird ... but this pack is making me happy the last few climbs since i got it ... only used on rock so far though i bought it at mec so if it dies like a dead bird ... ill just swap it out MEC also makes a nice cheap pack for 20 something dollahs