yasso1am

OR Vert Glove for the way up and OR ExtraVert Glove for the way down. If we are talking ski touring, that works great for me. I sometimes carry my BD Guide Glove shells in the bottom of the pack if for some reason it is a particularly wet/cold day, and the shell can be used in combination with either of the above mentioned gloves.

Wait the month. I had a buddy kick a soccer ball in a "pass" after three weeks and it re-broke. I broke my tibia+fibula and had a recover time of 6 months, but that's a bit different.

I have the 5.10 descents and I really like them. I have climbed everything from the complete north ridge of mt. stuart to angels crest on the chief to solar slab in them. They are pretty light, climb awesome, and breath well.

Thanks all!

Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs Date: 12/9/2011 Trip Report: My buddy Kirk Turner and I headed into the Enchantments to try Triple Couloirs on Dragontail. Neither of us had tried a route like this before, so we were excited with a bit of trepidation. We also weren't sure what conditions were like, so went in with open minds and found that they needed to be expanded even a bit more. If anyone has questions about conditions, I took about 30 condition specific photos (NE Couloir conditions, descent conditions, etc.). I'll send you photos, or maybe post a conditions specific topic. Photo essay ensues. Necessary gear... Kirk climbing into the first couloir through a short bit of mixed. Kirk in the middle of the first couloir. The runnels are not currently in. We found the variation 200 feet up from the runnels. The variation currently involves some steep loose snow over rock. I found the rap anchor (a piton and a stopper with a red sling attached) into the second couloir, but it looked like I would be rapping into a bone dry section of the couloir. I elected to climb an 80 foot pitch of mixed 5.8/5.9 to another anchor I spotted above (a 2-piton anchor with a purple sling). The anchor was slung in an American death triangle, which I recommend you not using. Due to a mind expanding incident on this pitch, I did not cut and replace the sling - I apologize for that. The entrance to the variation. Kirk moving through a slot before our first mixed pitch. After lowering/rapelling into the second couloir, Kirk climbed into a little alcove that had some tat and a previous anchor. He hand pulled one of the pitons in this anchor, so we decided to remove the tat and left over pitons. We bootied two carabiners in the process, thanks for that. At the top of the second couloir, into the third, is the only true exposed ice on the route we encountered. I placed a 13cm screw and we simul-climbed until a mixed section above forced us to place a belay. Kirk and his bomber 3-piece anchor after his stellar mixed lead that involved some cams and pitons. A cool reflection shot. Kirk at the top of the third couloir. Headed up the last snowfield and a bit of mixed to the summit. Obligatory summit shot Down climbing a few ice bulges on the descent down Asgard Pass. What a great trip, with beautiful weather, with an awesome friend. Hard to beat trips like this (for me) in the mountains. Overall we climbed two pitches of mixed, simul-climbed a few sections and the rest was cruiser. Thanks Cascades. Gear Notes: Gear brought: Let's not talk about it. Gear used: A picket, a 13cm screw, a rock rack including nuts, BD 0.3-2, 3 pitons, and slings. Approach Notes: Skinned up the logging road. Switched to climbing boots for the awesome bootpack on the approach. Camped near the end of the lake in the trees next to a small stream of running water. Not sure how much longer the stream will be running, but we didn't have to melt snow which made us happy. Thanks to previous parties for finding most holes on the posthole talus approach.

Myself and a partner climbed Triple Couloirs on Dragontail on Saturday. We were not a guided party. Will post a TR shortly.

Has anybody had a look at the routes on Colfax lately? Any idea if the snow has blown off them and the ice is in? Any postulation is appreciated.

Rab Down and Rain Jackets and Marmot Windshirt Sold.

Updated Prices: Marmot Windshirt: $30 Rab Down Jacket: $95 Rab Rain Jacket: $40 MH Defiant Pant: $25 BD Raven: $35 Scarpa Boots: $135 WT Burro Bag: $55 shipped MH Sleeping Bag: $50 Camp Helmet: $10 PM or email at andrewyasso "at" gmail "dot" com

http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2010/05/diy-leashless-ice-tool-tetherumbilical.html Another option for making your own.

Getting rid of lots of stuff. Live in Bellingham, do not have a car. If you're willing to wait, I can drop it off in Seattle sometime soon - or you can pay shipping to any destination. Open to trades and all reasonable offers. To answer before you ask, No this equipment did not fall of the side of a truck, I just got good deals over the years and take care of my equipment. Happy to pass the sales on to you. Please feel free to ask questions openly about the performance of this gear and its condition. I will be brutally honest, perhaps to my own detriment, or to your elation. Let the bidding commence. Marmot DriClime Windshirt Men's Medium - Great Condition. Retail $90: selling for $45 o.b.o. Rab Microlight Alpine Jacket Men's Medium (fits like a big Small) - Excellent condition, full loft. Retail $175-$215: Selling for $120 o.b.o. Rab Kinetic Jacket Men's Medium (fits like a small Large) - Excellent condition. Retail $84-$140: Selling for $55 o.b.o Mountain Hardwear Defiant Pants Men's Large (in the short leg version) - Excellent condition. I believe retailed for ~$200: Selling for $50 o.b.o Black Diamond Raven With Leash 60cm Ice Axe (manufacture leash included) - Great condition. Retails for $95: Selling for $45 o.b.o Scarpa Summit GTX Men's Mountaineering Boots Size 45.5 (US Men's 11 2/3, according to Scarpa) - Great condition. Retails for $279-$399: Selling for $195 o.b.o Wild Things Burro Duffel Bag 6500 Cubic inches (great for a Denali sled) - New. Retails for $105: Selling for $55 o.b.o Montbell Packable Daypack 20 Litre (stuffs into it's own pocket). - Excellent Condition. Retails for $27: Selling for $14 o.b.o Marmot Thor 2 person, 4 Season Tent (stored uncompressed) - Excellent condition. Comes with original repair kit, stakes, and guy out line. Retails for $495: Selling for $240 o.b.o. Leki Super Makalu Trekking Poles with one segment of one pole slightly bent (does not affect performance) - Okay condition. Retails for $99-$139: Selling for $25 o.b.o Mountain Hardwear Lamina Sleeping Bag 15 degree synthetic (older style than the one I linked to) - Good condition. Retails for $225: Selling for $75 Camp Helmet, not sure on the model or retail price. Good condition: Selling for $15 o.b.o

No worries. He does dress super funky, and I did climb with him on Halloween when he wore tight capri's, a ripped up skin tight shirt, and the similar hat. I think the only thing they share is somewhat ridiculous style, other than that they're different. Thanks!

Argus, I can almost guarantee it isn't that guy. I climbed with "that guy" roughly two months ago, and in no way could his hair be that long by now. Also they look different My last piece of evidence, is "that guy" in your picture happens to be an extremely upstanding and kind guy. I have a hard time believing he even has it in his nature to think about doing that.

DreamClimber, Look into American Alpine Institute Alpinism 1 program. It is probably the best course to get your feet wet in mountaineering, while not breaking the bank. It is 6 days long, spent on Mt. Baker, and is $1160. http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/alpinism1/ It also leads into every other AAI program, so if you want to continue your training it is extremely easy to blend into the next step. Let me be honest and just say I work for AAI, so I'm definitely biased. However, I was also a customer once, coming out from Michigan and taking the full Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership (AMTL) Program. I know exactly what it is like to be a customer and now an employee of AAI, and I happily and readily recommend their programs. Feel free to contact me if you would like to know more.

Kodak Zi8 supports an external mic and has 720p and 60fps (the 60 fps is more important than 1080p at 30 fps I found, although the 1080p is beautiful) The still shots with this camera are 5 megapixels and actually quite fantastic too! I used this camera on a month long road trip over october and it worked great. Can handle up to 32 gb cards I believe, and charges via a mini usb port. It also features a macro mode which is nice for close-ups. A few samples: Photo samples: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=875281556798&set=a.875281167578.2498484.21723138&theater http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=875302325178&set=a.875301287258.2498492.21723138&theater http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=886231627768&set=a.886231283458.2504971.21723138&theater Let me know if you have any other questions about the camera. I think it is a great option.

I fit the bill of the young 20s, single, recent college grad who is about to make his way into the field as a guide next season. I've been working in the office of a guide service this past year and feel like it has been an invaluable experience. I have learned skills and seen a side of the guiding industry that I will use for the rest of my job/career as a guide (job/career will be decided after a few years of doing this). I will say that the biggest thing I've noticed between those that guide as a job versus those that see this is as a career, is the career guides really know how to "make it work." To me guiding encompasses all of your skills, both in and out of the field. You really need to be comfortable talking to clients both during and after the trip, and work to make them repeat customers. In the office, I do my best to create work for guides, however as a guide you unfortunately can't just rely on the office. Use email, Facebook, your own personal website to make it work, whatever you have to do. You have to sell yourself just as much as the company you work for and the trips your company runs. The more you participate in the business, the more business you as a guide will get. These comments may seem very naive, not having spent a season guiding yet, however I feel pretty passionately that once I'm in the field I want to continue a sense of "office work." Every job has it, why should guiding by any different? Perhaps it is because I am recently out of school and used to homework, or being in the office the past year has me used to sending 40+ emails a day, but it just makes sense to me. I'm looking forward to participating in creating my own work, and accelerating my track to "seniority," when altering my guide schedule and choosing my work is more of a possibility/reality. I'm well aware that this may seem overly simplistic and optimistic, but I'm young and new to all this. I'll either loose my innocence soon, or prove my point. I would say the proof will be in my bank account, but it is difficult to put a price on quality of life.

Thanks so much for sharing this. Helps us make decisions for tomorrow.

Trip: Pan Dome - Mount baker Ski Area - Pan Dome Falls Date: 11/24/2010 Trip Report: What a great Thanksgiving - truly a lot to be thankful for. Spent the morning climbing Pan Dome, and the afternoon skiing. As far as Pan Dome is concerned, was able to place six 13cm screws, with one of those screws girth hitched with about an inch still out of the ice. Probably could have placed another screw or two, but only had six 13s and I don't think I could have gotten anything longer in. Some of the placements felt like good ice, to sugar snow, to good ice - so they were questionable. Fun was had. The scariest part was topping out into the terrain trap that is the gulley above the climb, my partner remote triggered an 18 inch soft slab above me. I definitely recommend rapping the route with two ropes if you do it the next day or so, instead of walking it off. Here is a crappy cell phone picture I took from Chair 2. I'm sorry about the quality, I know it is horrible but it was all I had and it is better than nothing. Gear Notes: Six to eight 13cm screws. Approach Notes: Behind the top of chair 2.

No idea on the conditions. If someone has a positive forecast though I would be happy to come down and climb with you guys. Cheers.

Oh that sounds good. We heard the first thunder, waited about 30 seconds, and then heard the second thunder and decided to bail. We were maybe 150 feet from the top but it was still shrouded in clouds and all we could see was the fog billowing up and building in the thunderhead. Basically what I'm trying to say is, our weather, 1/4 of a mile away, was worse then yours. That's right, I made it a competition.

Cool, what is the W. ridge of the STS like? Pretty similar?

Yeah, it was a Sunday and we knew they probably wouldn't have ripped the bridge up while we were gone. Also, we knew the road looped around so we weren't too worried. Saw a ton of cars at the gate before the uphill approach, yet we were the only ones on the West Ridge of the Twin. Didn't see anyone else all day. Where did they all go?

Trip: North Twin Sister - West Ridge Date: 8/29/2010 Trip Report: This route has been profiled before, just giving you some useful beta for the next few days. Coming from Glacier, off Highway 542, the bridge is closed on Mosquito Lake Road right before the turn onto FR38. There is a road block and a back hoe blocking the road. Can be circumvented with a smaller vehicle. The bridge is solid, just the guard rails haven't been put up yet. It's probably clear by now. We just really wanted to scramble... Gear Notes: Approach shoes, bikes for the descent, and a small car. Approach Notes: Hit Mosquito Lake Road from the Acme side (south) instead of Glacier to avoid this road block.

Omega Pacific Ice Screws - They aren't getting used and I want you to have them before the winter ice season in the PNW starts. The bite fast, have a speed knob, and lay great on the harness. Very lightly used. 1 - 22cm (placed once) 3 - 17cm (place a few times) 1 - 11cm (never placed) Would be willing to part with individual screws for $35, or save and buy them all for $150 obo. I'm in Bellingham, so you can pick them up, or if you are patient I may be making a trip along the I-5 corridor soon so I can just drop them off. pm me, email me (andrew . yasso (at) gmail.com) or call 248.342.9359 - reasonable offers entertained

Haha, that is awesome.