Holk

Not to mention its easy access year round. So instead, go climb something that's limited to a summer approach while it's still in season. Eh, maybe that's the one you should think about!?

More of a lunch break spot, but you are right about it's potential. If one were to break up the Three Sisters traverse into two days this would be the perfect place to stop. When looking at the photo below the one of my brother lounging the spot is seen on the left-center, between where the two tree lined ridges come to an end. A surprisingly sheltered site.

Is the Hogsback already shifting back toward the Gates? Or is this my imagination.

I recall scrambling up rocks the size of VW Bugs while they were sliding backward. The thought of getting trapped underneath one of those scared me a little too much. Nearing the tail-end of September 2009.

Trip: Middle Sister - South Ridge - North Ridge Date: 9/5/2010 Trip Report: My brother, Isaac, and I went climbing this weekend with no agenda. Three Sisters was our destination and after a leisurely camp along the Green Lakes trail Saturday we awoke and went for Chambers Lake. From here we worked our way up the Middle Sister's south ridge which was easy enough to go up, but would've been a knee jerker coming down. Our destination was up and over the summit to Prouty Point. From here we went down the Hayden Glacier, veered cross country toward the rock pile where the Chambers Trail crosses the creek and slogged our way back to the Pole Creek TH. Later Three Creeks treated us to multiple IPAs. Gear Notes: 1 Axe (didn't use), Crampons (used but not necessary), 10 Essentials Approach Notes: The trail leading to the mountain was a lot more gradual than anticipated and water sources were found continually up to 9,000ft.

A report from my friend Dmitri says there's new snow as of today in the Three Sisters area. How much and for how long remains unknown.

Those last two photos look like a place you'd see in Norway, without their small villages.

The climb went really well and very little snow was ever encountered. Areas on Diamond Peak still look pretty thick and so do the Three Sisters, but Howlock only had a little couple of patches here and there. Howlock summit at left and summit Pinnacle at center right. Unfortunately I never managed my way over to Thielsen East Peak, but that just means I'll have to head down again soon. However, I did write a bit of a report on the climb and would've put it here, but already uploaded it to summitpost and don't want to repeat myself. http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/642509/the-holly-sawtooth.html Atop the summit Pinnacle of Howlock Mountain w/ Thielsen in the background.

What, ... you mean this cornice? Take the Old Chute variation off to the right this time of year and climb as early as possible, as in off the summit by sunrise.

Thanks Jim! This is all very encouraging news. I actually love climbing in the snow, but like I said, access is the issue here. Howlock is north of Thielsen a few miles and it's the peak I'll have to go after first, then climb the Sawtooth range to get onto Thielsen East Peak. I just don't want to get behind schedule because of route finding in the snow, but it sounds like the trails are in and easy to navigate. If possible I hope to find a couloir below the southeast ridge and head out that way, otherwise I'll likely just retrace my steps out. Thanks again! Hopefully I'll be able to tackle four of Oregon's 100 highest peaks this weekend.

I will be heading down to Crater Lake Thursday night and staying through Sunday. Does anyone know what the snow conditions are like out there? I would like to climb Scott, Bailey, Howlock and Thielsen East Peak - the last two are what I'm concerned with. Just curious if I'll have to go cross country on the approach? Thanks.

Nicely done! My brother and I did Adams NWR/NFNWR during the same days. I recall looking across the sea of clouds wondering who was up on the neighboring mountain, as I often do. It's always fun to find out.

My brother and I too were up the Killen TH Saturday into late Sunday night - we climbed the NWR/NFNWR variation. Snow began within the first mile up the TH, but the boot tracks were solid all the way to timberline.

The difference between the 9000ft level forecast low and high temps was 40 and 41 respectively, so until the sun began hitting those cliffs directly the conditions likely changed very little. However, in direct sunlight it did get worse, but we just got out in the nic of time. But all that mumbo jumbo can't be the real reason you were showered with ice, I mean, I think maybe it was personal. Perhaps the mountain picks and chooses who it'll test and you simply got the luck of the draw. Or maybe that's her way of saying she likes you? And the slope, it did seem like it was getting better with time, but really that thing was rather inconsistent. Manageable one second, total crap the next, which was entertaining in some ways ... damn stairway getting in the way of my entertainment. Anyway, I say again congrats on a safe and successful climb and kudos to EastKing for taking one for the team!

I was up there Sunday into Monday morning from 2am - 12pm. It was a good day up there and never had I felt so comfortable on a mountain. Although a little ice dodging did take place on the Chute it never seemed threatening to me, i.e. very small and sparse. Anyway, congrats on the climb and thanks for the pictures. Here's a link to a few more shots and small writeup: http://jamesholk.com/mt-hood-summer-trip-report/06/30/2010/.

I think I may have spoken with that woman just prior to that incident, how fortunate I count myself now. My biggest beef was with these groups of roped climbers who didn't know what they were doing. Why I stopped to take this photo and not instead get the hell out of their fall line without hesitation I still don't know.

Looking good. I plan to camp out below East Peak sometime next month and if possible climb a gully I believe to run up Thielsen's south eastern face to about 8,000ft on the ridge. Thanks for sharing the images.

Nice writeup! I've wanted to get back up there again real bad and still hope to this year; Adams too. I recently read a report that the right variation of the Gates were super easy right now and I'd like to look at it if nothing else in the coming weeks. You say you climbed on the 9th, if that is so then you may enjoy looking at this image: http://www.summitpost.org/image/622856/150189/crater-rock-fumaroles.html. I shot that photo after a long night at the beach and immediately upon seeing the mountain that morning had thought of who may have been climbing. I guess it was you.

Yes, I am keeping close tabs on weather and all. My plans are loosely based and I've already got my summit for the year, so I'm not hungry for that, either. Depending on how it all goes I very well may spend my weekend lounging with beer instead.

Good info on here, thanks all. Going to try and do WCR Sunday or Monday morning. Depending on conditions I may just repeat the Chute.

While reading this I realized you had passed us on our way up the Old Chute that Sunday morning. Your report is very entertaining and encouraging. I posted a TR on SP from that same day, even gave you a little reference.