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Edvin M

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About Edvin M

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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    Tromsø, Norway
  1. Petzl Sirocco helmet vs. shell

    Hi, I got one a couple of month ago on a Christmas sale, used it ~30 days so far. No problems getting a good fit with a hood or hat under, but with nothing underneath it's not so comfortable. Adding some extra padding would help I think. Everything is scaled down to achieve the low weight so can't really complain there. I've got hit twice with ice, IMO it doesn't absorb the chock as good as my hardhelmet(Petzl Elios)and the foam do get damaged from harder hits. No problems if you get a dinner plate or similar and let it bounce of your helmet. In the attached picture you can clearly see were I got hit. First one was pretty hard, second one was strong enough to knock me of balance so it was pretty big. As for other brands following I wouldn't be surprised if we saw a couple of more helmets in the coming years, EPP has been using in helmets for other sports some time now so I guess it's just a matter of time before we start seeing more of them but I haven't read any reports from OR, OD Freidrichstarssen or similar so might take another year or two?
  2. BD heel piece discussion V2

    Yes, though not my crampons - a climbing partner's. This was a pair of pre-SS Cyborgs about 7 yrs ago. The plastic heel piece was deformed and the wire bail popped out of place inside the mechanism. I assessed it for my own purposes as a fundamental design weakness in that component. I chose to look at other models and brands that seemed to be a more robust design when it came time to replace my own crampons. So 3 total screwed up heel bails? anyone else? Not BD but two Grivel in the same week. Both on a pair of Rambo 4 with Scarpa Phantom Ultra, size 46. The first time the plastic holding the wire deformed, just like on the BD ones this thread is about. The second time I think I had them set to tight and the yellow plastic at the bottom got bent. I was actually in Italy at the time, just an hours drive from the Grivel factory but the local gear shop in Cogne had replacements so I just bought a new set and never involved Grivel.
  3. DMM Dragon--A review and hints

    Yeah, I know there's a risk involved and I had a quickdraw backclip on me once but I really don't see it as an issue with the dragon cams, first, they are much heavier than a quickdraw so the risk that they "invert" and backclip on your harness is pretty small. Second, you only have two strands through the biner so you are going to be able to see if there's something funky about it when you place it.
  4. DMM Dragon--A review and hints

    I used O-rings like on an extendable quickdraw to attach the biner to the sewn part of the sling. Makes it super easy to unclip the right end
  5. SS crampons vs aluminum (Dane ?)

    A friend of mine went into Snell Sports in Chamonix last summer thinking about getting a pair of lightweight Grivel Aluminium crampons, the salesman strongly advised him to get a pair of lightweight steel crampons instead because they had had quite a lot of returns of broken aluminium crampons.
  6. Kong Grimper approach skis

    What boots are you using? I struggle to ski anything steep with my soft Scarpa Phantom Ultra but don't have much problem with my stiff Spantiks. But then I use shorter skis than you, got a pair of 140 cm Fischer Wahine with Silvretta 500's. As you might know, shorter skis are generally easier to turn with than longer one's, the downside is that with the much smaller surface area you sink deeper in the snow and your skins won't grip as good when your skinning up a steep slope. Sometimes I also keep my skins on for the descent and let them act as brakes
  7. best overall digital camera for climbing

    Make sure you check that the touch screen works with gloves on, some(all?) doesn't work at all even with thin gloves on.