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nels0891

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Everything posted by nels0891

  1. I climbed Mount Stuart a year ago this weekend via the south side, the Cascadian Couloir. I also live part time in the Teanaway valley. Although this year has produced a very wet spring with a lot of late snow, last year the couloir was almost all melted out so I dont know how much snow will be left. From the Esmeralda trailhead, go up the trail to Longs Pass, then drop down the bowl to Ingalls Creek trail. From there head downstream for a quarter mile or so until you find the climbing trail take off to the left. On another note, have you looked at any of the avalanche warnings for this weekend? You really should check out the report from the NWAC for this weekend, it doesn't look very promising. With the recent snow we've gotten and the forecast for really warm weather this weekend, it is gearing up for some bad avalanches. In fact, with this report I wouldn't even consider being in that couloir... it would be an avalanche death trap. In most places the chute is deep enough that it would be extremely difficult to get to a safe spot in the event of an avalanche. I would seriously reconsider going up there this weekend, try finding some rock to climb or something. If you have any more questions about the area or the forecast, just message me and i'll try to help. Chase
  2. To anybody that is interested, I am looking at many of the same climbs that everybody else here is. I am on summer vacation from school and have a very flexible work schedule so I am available pretty much any time to climb. I do pretty much any kind of climbing so if anybody is interested I would be ready to go. I boulder V5/6, sport 5.11, as well as a ton of glacier and alpine climbing. My plans so far for summer are the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier, Little Tahoma, and a bunch of other technical climbs in the cascades, so if anybody wants to get in on the action just let me know. -Chase
  3. would you be willing to sell just the black diamond cams?
  4. The snow pack in the cascades and Mount Rainier area have been lower than normal lower than 5000 feet this winter, but normal above 5000 feet. The road splits off of hwy 410 at about 4000 feet so this might be a year that opens up a little earlier than normal. Within a few weekends of memorial day, before or after, i would consider normal for the hwy to open up, so in my opinion this year it would probably be on the earlier side. With that said... thats just my best guess with the info i have. I also am thinking about doing liberty ridge this spring and that is about our target date, so if you want to keep in contact about it I could give you any more recent information as i get it. also i just wouldnt mind knowing who else will be up on the mountain so feel free to send me a pm and we can exchange contact info.
  5. I would be willing to do it for the 3 cams only... at this point picking up just two cams wouldnt make much sense. Think about it and get back to me any time.
  6. Condition of the cams? can you put up some pictures?
  7. the trade sounds pretty good. could you send me a pm with pictures of everything? I am also away at school right now, but I'll be home in just a few weeks. If you didnt want to wait that long, we might be able to work something out if I am in western washington before then.
  8. I have a Metolius Stomp pad. Its no monster, but its 48x36x4. Looked up the other one from the previous offer, its 41x32x3. It is in good shape. Shoulder straps. I have used it by myself and havent had any problem. Let me know if your interested.
  9. what do you need a glacier for? just find some kind of drop off. for example, if you go early season up to paradise, there are a few places as you go shortly up the trail towards muir, the bowl off to the right drops off steep enough in some places to treat it as if it were the edge of a crevasse. This can also be a good alternative to dropping down into a crevasse because you can usually find a safe runout, and its easier to deal with than crevasse danger on a glacier. Thats just my opinion though, feel free to try it out. I can definitely appreciate the fun of being actually on the glacier at the same time.
  10. Agreed! Obviously with any type of climbing stories, I dont want to be quick to throw out criticism because I wasnt there and its really hard to fully understand their situation just from a trip report. With that said, it almost seems like a classic case of Mount Rainier being slightly underestimated by what it can offer. I've recently been considering that route this summer myself so after all of the research I have been doing, it doesnt seem like the most educated decision. Most guidebooks seem to say that it is commonly underestimated despite all the difficulties that are present on the ridge. In another sense, I understand that they had come from a very long way to do that route and they all seemed to have considerable experience in a mountain setting. One more thing I noticed from that article that really surprised me... What is up with the little shelter of a tent they described? Especially given the forecast of possibly experiencing bad weather, wouldn't it be a wise choice to use a sturdier tent? And perhaps pay a little more care to not poke holes in it with your crampons? It really is good to hear that these people did not have a worse outcome however, as it seems as though it could have gone terribly worse.
  11. I have a Mountain Hardwear Hooded Compressor Jacket for sale. Retails for $190, I am looking to sell it for $90 It has been lightly used, does not have any flaws at all and is very clean. Size medium This jacket does great with northwest weather because is synthetic and does a great job maintaining insulation during wet conditions. Contact me through cc.com or through my other email, nels0891@vandals.uidaho.edu
  12. thanks g-spotter, that worked perfect.
  13. Does anybody know how I can contact Fred Beckey? I know that sounds odd, but I have a question I would really like to ask him. Thanks
  14. Just to clear the record, dexamethasone IS used to tread HAPE and HACE.
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