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nels0891

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Everything posted by nels0891

  1. its that blank huh? I really had no idea, just figured i'd throw the question out of curiosity.
  2. Does anybody know if the route could be climbed on trad gear? I think that would be badass. Thanks.
  3. At some point I'd like to do this climb... that would be the realization of everything I like out of climbing and an incredible accomplishment. Just as Wayne pointed out, the climb and the write up are very inspiring, and hopefully some day I can make my own mark on the area's climbing history. Congrats.
  4. Any chance i can get a copy of that topo you copied from the summit? If you wouldnt mind emailing me a copy that would be super awesome. My email address is nels0891@vandals.uidaho.edu Thanks!
  5. Mad props! Ive been thinking about heading up from Moscow to do that climb this fall before the snow shows up. Looks like a super sweet climb.
  6. beta? follow the boot path but be mindful of new crevasses that may have formed more recently with the late summer heat. Although it can become extremely icy up there given the right conditions, I would consider 40 degree ice rink extremely rare conditions to come upon. Granted, you should always be prepared for any conditions you may encounter, but I wouldnt make that your biggest concern of all other possibilities of potential hazards of climbing. The weekend before last the upper mountain was totally encased in a lenticular cloud and ALL of our solid gear (ie ice axes, carabiners) was covered in about 3/4 inch of ice, but even when the granular snow on the glacier is frozen solid it still doesnt exactly resemble an ice rink. Seems to me that the ice rink like conditions seem to occur more often when there are warm temps and rain on the upper mountain, followed by colder weather or lower temps at night. With that said, its still important to keep your gear ready because stuff happens.
  7. just drove by the section that had the mudslide an hour or two ago.... that thing pushed around some big boulders. time for all the boulderers to break out the brushes and get to work.
  8. I have a pair of lightly used Asolo boots for sale. They are size 8. Lightly used, only on one or two trips. They are the blue boots that are commonly used as rentals, but i bought these ones brand new last spring. SOLD
  9. Ya I read about that... seems a little sketchy, but at this point i think i could do him the service of recognizing his accomplishments as a climber and leave his personal stuff out of it.
  10. Erhard Loretan was killed in a fall while guiding in the Bernese Alps. He was the third person to summit all 8000 meter peaks. RIP Swiss mountaineer dies in fall
  11. liberty ridge is also at the top of my list. I've been on rainier quite a few times, just haven't gotten on lib ridge yet. i noticed that it says your out of coeur d'alene, and i'm actually in moscow at U of I, so if you want to get out and do some rock climbing to get to know each other and make a plan, that would definitely be a possibility.
  12. I dont know if i'll be able to afford a trip up to alaska, but for the rest of the 6 months where are you going to be climbing? I am from the seattle area and will be looking for partners this summer. You and i seem to be at a similar level as far as climbing ability is concerned so if your in the area and are interested in any of the cascade volcanoes or north cascades i'm sure we could work something out. Chase nels0891@vandals.uidaho.edu
  13. Although you might be right about personal preference of the guides, I think what he was asking was why have the guide services and the national park dictated the DC route as the standard for many guided trips. And i think the answer to that question, is that its the easiest out of the paradise side, relatively accessible when problems arise, and muir is better suited for larger numbers of people than camp shurman. Also, thats where the guides started and have a long history on that route. As much as people on this thread are bashing on the DC, I really dont think its as bad as it might sound. I mean, if it were an absolute death trap then everyone would refuse to climb it. It doesn't look good for guides' reputations for their clients to be picked off by rocks on a regular basis, and they wouldnt be on the DC if that was the case.
  14. The NPS also finished up the new trail up to glacier basin, so you no longer have to make your way up the rocky creek bed for that section of the trail since the flooding a few years ago. I climbed the Emmons about 2 weeks before they finished the new trail, and that was probably the only part that stuck out to me as kind of a pain. Also, another really good way of increasing your chances of a successful summit is to make it a three day trip and hang out for a day at high camp before going for the top. Not only does it give you a little more time to adjust to the altitude and recover from the hike up to high camp, in my experience it also gives you a chance to talk to more people that have good insight of the current conditions on the route. In fact, I think planning and preparation will have a lot more to do with a successful rainier climb than choosing between the DC and Emmons routes. As far as safety of the routes, i think its safe to say that the Emmons has a slightly higher degree of safety in certain regards. However as people noted above, there are very real dangers on both the DC and Emmons, so if I were you I would approach them both with the same mindset. Good luck and have a fun climb!
  15. kurt, i sent you a message on facebook, you should check it out and let me know what you think.
  16. captain panther.. if you find out where this is, we should get some people to head out there some time next week.
  17. fair enough. i wasnt trying to criticize you by any means, im a student myself and was really just wondering.
  18. I know its unrelated to your question, but i just have to ask. Why get a degree in financial economics if you dont have any interest in it?
  19. Just wanted to remind everyone to be careful out in the backcountry now that winter has returned. Im just as pumped as the next person to get out and enjoy the snow and do some awesome winter climbs, but keep in mind to follow the necessary steps to stay out of avalanche danger. When in doubt, do yourself a favor and take a class. Here is a link to a report of a fatality a few weeks ago on morning star peak. Morning Star Avalanche Report
  20. you could consider me in a similar situation.... ive really contemplated on dropping everything and going somewhere like that. unfortunately ive settled for waiting until i graduate in two more years. if your looking for boats, there are a lot of websites out there for boat owners looking for crew, and people that are looking to ride along. most are unpaid (but if your going to patagonia, who cares anyway), and some require previous sailing experience but not all. I think it would be a little trickier to find one that fits the bill if you go in with specific criteria, but if you dont really care where you go i dont think it would be that difficult. as far as driving... you should just look really closely at the political situations in all of the countries you would be driving through. i really have no idea if there is any concern or not, but its something to consider.
  21. i'll be home from school next thursday, so any time after that im definitely interested in checking it out. got any dates in mind?
  22. I'd be interested in the routes you mentioned as well as a few others. Also would you or anybody else on this thread be interested in doing rainier this winter? not too technical... but i still want to get a winter climb on the big guy. brandon, i'll be back from school in about a week and a half so whenever your ready to do some climbs im game. and captain panther, your from rei tacoma right? ive talked to you a few times, if your interested in getting out as well im game. reply to me on here, send me an email at nels0891@vandals.uidaho.edu or look me up on facebook. hope to hear from at least one of you guys within the next few weeks.
  23. more specifically than WA or OR, what area? how about like a closest city. if its in washington within 2-3 hours of the seattle area i'm interested.
  24. I'm planning a winter climb of rainier in late december or early january. the specific dates will be more dictated by the weather, so i havent narrowed it down that much. if your interested and have some previous mountaineering experience just let me know. I plan on going up the gib ledges route.
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