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kukuzka1

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Posts posted by kukuzka1

  1. requirements into alpine settings is even more disturbing than the insatiable drive to bolt every rock within two hours of every major metropolitan city and the increasing pressure to dumb down existing routes by retrobolting. If it weren't for the insatiable aspect of 'the other way' then I'd have no problem with it. As it is, I just find it sad and am glad I'm old as the encroachment and degradation is only going to get worse.

     

    the fact that we as climbers cannot regulate ourselves for creating these shopping mall,at all costs, routes and the desire for achieving "route setting" glory , I believe will not go unnoticed if they keep coming. the government will make more rules and regulate for us. leave no trace is not just for campers and hikers, it should be a climbers goal as well. and yes sperry basin is not Chamonix, but I do believe it is in the mountains. I am sure the FA team are cool guys, this is nothing personal, I just think is bad form. that's all
  2. Were fucked anyways

    We need more route setters.
    dude I sent the yellow route on the NE face of stuie, its between the red route and the black/white route. was so rad! the route setter is sick, it finishes with this massive dyno to a knarly no hands stance to micro crimps. completely sick! sorry I just couldn't resist. no offence t-mark :brew:
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    That added, each area is different, and I think it's incumbent on us to respect the history, TRADition and ethics of each area.

    yes and the cascade mountains has an almost 100 year tradition of ground up FAs (minus a very few exceptions) and as more of these routes are done in this style, then we have changed the tradition. so when the next generations come, rap bolting will now be the an accepted tradition
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    Yes, there are plenty of great ground up routes. It is not in wilderness. It absolutely has alpine hazards and some of these, such as climber-induced rockfall, may be exacerbated by being popular.
    And there are plenty of rap bolted sport climbs around also, there at rock climbing areas not in the mountains. I believe it is in the wilderness. as far as the safety concerns, if you travel in the mountains you should understand the risks, so is not an issue with me
  5. I remember in the infinite bliss debate, that no new routes were done in the alpine wilderness top down bolted. In fact this is the first one I have heard about since then, there maybe are more but haven’t heard of any. My only concern is as it becomes more and more accepted every tom dick and harry will start rappelling steep mountains walls and bolting, And then start “working” the route until it “goes” or until it doesn’t “go” and is left abandoned or until the next generation tries it. And it kinda sounds strange but in my mind if we continue to support top down wilderness routes it will only be a matter of time before its common place.(which some climbers may not care about?) and Maybe I’m being A bit paranoid but…maybe not

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