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kukuzka1
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Posts posted by kukuzka1
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So there is another rap-bolted route above the mile high club? I remember after the IB BS some saying that they doubt more routes will be done in this style. But soon there will be more and more. I dont wanna beat a dead horse but its a slippery slope we are going down.
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OK got it, thanks off white
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On 2/16/2018 at 4:20 PM, Off_White said:
That's great, thanks. Looks like Steph Abegg's work?
umm yes hope she doesnt mind
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Yes Dan its definitly that! perfect description. and as far as the rating I thought there were a few 5.10ish spots but I am not good at ratings. glad you semi enjoyed it. it does have great bivi spots
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Thanks Matt
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So did Mr Beckey do an updated version of any of his Alpine guides before he passed? or whats out already are his last publications?
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On 10/7/2017 at 8:42 PM, Nowurys said:
Hi Kukuzka. This is Chris. Saw this post from forever ago. Please feel free to use the photo for your typo if you still need.
thank you
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I only met Mr Beckey twice, once after a solo of chair peaks east face on a beautiful summer day of 93. He was hiking up the scee slope slowly with another man, so we chatted awhile. After he asked me what i did, he kinda scolded me, saying he wouldnt of done it without a belay. when hiking out, thinking of what he said, I tripped on the boulder field and went head over heals, hurting my shoulder bad, I was hoping he didnt see me! The second meeting was in 07 on tiger mountain, I was going up and passed him going down, so I cut my hike short to chat with him. My mind was swirling trying to think of which climbs to ask him about and I descided on the1st winter ascent of mt Robson 1961(?) and mt hunters west ridge with heinrich herrar(1954) I also aked him what Herman Ulrich was like as I read about his early ascents in the cascades and admired him. He was polite and anwsered my questions. At the parking lot he asked me if I wanted to head to Canada for some ski touring/climbing, he was already 84ish at that time!! I regretably told him I had to work the next day and we exchanged emails. I wish I would have gone though. RIP
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awesome photos! looks like a good route(as far as routes go on Mt Tahoma)
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in official winter there will be a gate about a mile before big 4, unless its an unusual dry warm winter, so its a full day (or more) of road skinning to get to the summer trailhead. although snowmobiles are allowed here. if not into this, maybe wait till early spring(but still winterish up high)
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cool, the rock looks really good, kinda like Ingalls peaks good stuff
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nice. that 3.5 hr approach is only after the snow melts on the mt loop road. its an extra 8-10 miles? if its closed, correct?
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played around on this in the 90s, fun stuff
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rape bolted?
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IMO this is an is real route for ascending it in winter if the conditions are right.
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looks like it might be a good winter climb
did you try pushing it strait up one of those rock ribs? -
direct start to sw ridge/face?(cauthorn route) dorado needle 2 pitches,5.9+ and 5.8
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yes I cant imagine going up it as it was bad enough going down it. do it in late winter or spring would have been a better time. not much but some
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I did the left most route on the NE face 1963? or 65? route and the upper section was really superb rock, climbing and position. the lower section wasn't bad either. really deserves more attention. also there is no imitating a gorilla!! as no trees
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personally I wouldn't let my child go, unless I was there. even the simplest of mountains/routes can become serious tragedy as the mt Hood epic years ago prove. with all the navigational tools now available, it seems unlikely a tragedy would happen. but??? I just wouldn't risk it. good luck
Guye Peak/South Rib
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
yeah variations can be up to 5.10 or more if you want. just remember if its harder than mid 5th your off route.