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Everything posted by kukuzka1

  1. [TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress 08/01/2020

    Do the 1963 NE ridge/rib and avoid all the bush! its a great route
  2. Awesome! finally something gets done on that thing. Just for shits and giggles is possible to draw a rough line of the Doorish route? I cannot quite see it
  3. [TR] Mt Index - Hourglass Gully 06/05/2020

    Yes me too but Its amazing to me at least, that nobody climbs or tries to climb the NNB. Maybe they're just not on CC.com?
  4. In the mid 90's me and a partner tried unsuccessfully climbing the NE ridge in winter, with Marko and my brother making it aprox 2/3's up before bailing. I agree that in the summer it doesn't catch your imagination but during the winter, especially from the access road it's pretty impressive looking. Although in late September 2001 we did do a summer route that was left of the large ledge below the east face starting with a 5.7/8 twin cracks on a slabby face. It was long(we summited at dark IV 5.8). the climbing was pretty good and brush free. I believe was part of the established route there but I thik we did some variations. I'd recommend it. The above comment by Rad..... "plus the fact that if you trundled things off the face they could easily hit people on the trail." sums up the rape bolting/route setting generation. different times. Marko and partner also "almost" completed a winter route on one of the North face gullies( I guess kinda insecure/scary?)
  5. [TR] Sloan Peak - Superalpine 03/15/2020

    Whenever I have been on the mountain loop highway in winter it has been gated a little before Big 4 and you'd have to snowmobile or ski big miles. Is now different? global warming? or am I missing something? Looks like fun and hope you guys finish it.
  6. [TR] Quartz Mountain - Training Day 08/24/2019

    Isn't the photo's saying pitch 12 and 13 the same photo area? looking in reverse?
  7. Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)

    Or does anone do the various Doorish routes on Garfield main? or do 99% head for the formidable IB?
  8. Oh and if anyone finds a walkman with an ac/dc tape in it, on the west side of Kalenteen peaks north ridge(narrow section) please let me know
  9. Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)

    Please!! how about sombody repeating the North Norweigen Buttress route? 1985 it was put up! If that was in french alps it would been done dozens of times. I say this sitting at my comfy desk in my warm room. Or do the FWA of it?
  10. Tried getting in there in winter some years ago and following Beckeys approach just got frustrated and gave up. seems like a cool area. cool tr
  11. VERY COOL! And yeah what a detailed trip report that will help future parties for sure
  12. And G-spotter, I am not canadian, I live here
  13. well congradulations, youve changed over a hundred years of first ascenting styles in the cascades. hope it ends here.
  14. Always wanted to try something similar, until I didnt. When looking at it on the map it looks like the perfect loop with potential to bag many peaks and log many miles. great job. you think it might still need some tweeking? (starting or ending it) I was looking to end it near the william spires to finish
  15. photo of a line done left of the original ne ridge route. this pitch was one of the best of its grade (5.8) ive ever done
  16. Trip: cathedral rock - possible variation? or new line of the NE buttress Date: 6-20 2003 Trip Report: maybe someone out their knows a little about the 1984 route. the reason im writing this report is because the 3rd pitch was in my opinion the best pitch of that grade ive ever climbed in the cascades its too bad you have to climb the 1st and 2nd pitches to get their. it may be the 1984 route we did but their are some prominent features that I would have mentioned in a 1st ascent report[roof,rock bulge,yellow rock,large triangle rock]and the grade would be a serious sandbag.the route me and marko climbed in june 2003 started at the same belay tree as the 1984, then we headed left for aprox 20+ feet and then up, over scary,loose,4th and low 5th class rock, aiming for a left facing corner with a thin crack in it, belaying here. then strait up the crack[5.7] to a rock bulge with good jams[5.8+]which takes you to a small roof. exit out left thru some exsposed 5.6/7 climbing and mantel up to a large triangular rock, then more moderate climbing above. a truly awsome pitch. we moved the belay to possibly the same tree/notch as the 1984 route? but the crack up and left of the belay was in yellowish rock and was a short 5.9+ then a belay above, on a left trending ramp[loose rubble]to finish with a short scramble and the summit. so if anyone has any info, would aprieciate. mpreiss Gear Notes: stadard alpine rock rack to 4 inches
  17. Trip: Dorado needle - Direct sw buttress Date: 9/4/2006 Trip Report: I dont know if anyones done this before me and marko did this? but its a quality two pitch variation to the 1985 sw buttress route with great rock and pro. after exiting the aproach gully instead of traversing right to the cauthorn start go strait up the buttress toe via 4th class rock until you see an obviouse couple vertical cracks on the left center. climb the right crack[5.8] until you must exit right via a small rock pillar[5.9+-5.10]to reach easier ground.the second pitch climbs strait up with a akward couple of 5.8 moves[slightly wet when we did it]then up some solid mid 5th rock to join the regular route at the large white slabs. if its been done my apoligies but it should be out there so climbers looking for a little more difficult rock can enjoy it. mpreiss Gear Notes: the 5.8 crack cams/nuts up to 4 inches. the crux thin cams/nuts
  18. Does the route intentionally go right on the tree ramp or more strait up? Isnt the route graded 5.6ish? or 5.8? J-burg is a big mountain for sure.
  19. Guiding in the PNW

    I realize guides bring adventure to people who would or could never do it on their own, but ever since seeing the bags of feces/food/litter being thrown in crevasses by large guided teams on Denali and the other damage done by classic guided routes (w.ridge forbidden, ect..) I wish guiding would not be allowed on Denali or anywhere else. If you cannot acsend/desend a mountain on your own or with a few others then learn, train and climb less peaks until your ready. I know its a radical view that will never happen. just as I wished rapp bolting never had been allowed. But since it is allowed I hope the rules get stricter and the guides follow them.
  20. Trip: Central Cascades - NW Butress Sloan Peak FA Trip Date: 09/23/2000 Trip Report: Never did a trip report the mark b and myselfs first ascent of the NW Butress of Sloan peak, so I will do a short one now. Late September 2000 we started up the left side of the broad west face, on the dark rock slightly right of a sharp crest. first pitch is funky balancy climbing on not greatly protected rock(5.8+ish) heading for a dead tree near the crest. Pitches 2-4 climb up thru trees, a small rock step and a grassy gully(wet when we did it) topped by a large chockstone. climb up behind a huge rock pillar to a ledge to begin the teririble traverse rightward. luckily its short, until you can climb up blocky fun mid 5th rock to the top of the black rock.(great bivi) wish could have gone strait up the rock instead of the traverse but the rock looked hard (for us) and slabby. From the top of the black rock ascend just left of the pinkish, rotten rock slightly onto the northern face via easy rock, heather and small trees until you reach an obvious right facing corner/chimmney. starts easy(5.7) and gets harder as you go with the end being on small crimps with small cams for pro (5.9+ish?) Then follow the narrow heather bench rightward to the top of the steep west face(impressive bivi!) climb strait up the crux via cracks (fixed pin) to a small sandy ledge. From here it eases going up and rightish, many variations possible. We exited via a nice shortish hand crack (8+) to the upper mountain. scramble to sub-summit then the main summit. IV 5.8/9 It has 4-5 good pitches and 4-5 not very good ones, with 3rd and 4th class scrambeling Gear Notes: medium rock rack, small to 3 inches, 8-10 slings Approach Notes: same as for West face-Bedal creek