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Posts posted by JRay

  1. Thrashed* not trashed. And btw I wasn't trying to make it sound like you were pawning some crap wares. My mistake on the semantics.


    I'm glad someone got a great deal.

  2. I would say to get the green trails map of the area. You probably know that its the most inaccessible major peak in the US cascades. I think I saw a trip report done on the Teton Gravity forums. 18 miles of approach =)



  3. Ivan - sounds like you found yourself all the way up Abraxas but didn't hit the Tombstone Wall. Is that right?

    dunno - i like to be lost and so never seem to have a guidebook - thought that was the tombstone crack that abraxas went to at the end of p3? we rapped where there was a good anchor and everythign above was chossy easiness to the false summit, from which you look to do a rope-lenght of traversing, then some down and back up to the true top. i'll be back soon enough i bet, fucking beaconben is drawn to this thing like flies 2 shit! :)


    Sounds like you made the tombstone crack. Heard its something amazing. I've hiked up the backside and to the true summit a while ago but will be making it via Abraxas one of these days with some Germans. Couldn't find the top anchor but I have a feeling I was close.

  4. If anyone has this boot laying around I'd be interested in taking it from you for a decent price depending on the condition/wear.


    Salomon Thermic Pro in size 10 prefered but 10.5 may work as well.






    PS If anyone has any advice on warm boots for wide feet besides blowing out plastics let me know in a PM or just post here to grow the public knowledge base.


  5. If you go the south side route roping up is only needed on the old chute. And thats not going to be needed there unless you are with people that need it for mental security. Rope just creates more trouble in those situations where its not needed.


    Good place to practice though cause other dangers are minimal and you can get used to having another guy on your line.


    Climb safe, Have fun

  6. I just read your Double Boots article and thought I saw 17 degrees Kelvin......!


    "(no one else summited that week either btw) My feet getting cold were just the first sign of that cold. That and a thermometer that bottomed out during the night at 17K."


    Great read! I have to ask though, what are your thoughts on the Lowa Civetta Extremes?

  7. Not sure what its like right now... should throw this topic on the oregon cascades thread.


    FYI Jefferson is an interesting climb late season. The glaciers are all exposed and the snow is very soft. Pickets may not even work. Kick huge steps with your crampons and make sure to be on/off the summit before 10am and thus off the sketch snow by 11 (b/c of sun). The snow is the reason for this. Its so soft and many aspects are 60+ degrees.


    Depending on the ridge, expect the standard scree soup/ash mix that makes the treadmill experience that much more amazing.



  8. If anyone has some old knifeblades, bugaboos, or bd angle pitons they'd like to get rid of send me a pm. Need a larger rack to finish a fairly large project where the overhanging :sick: crack size doesn't vary much at all :eek: .


    Sketch? Yes. Need more pitons? Yes.