Jon H

Just to reinforce the scarcity of Nomics (old AND new) - there hasn't been a single pair listed on eBay in over 3 months. I suspect that a used pair of Nomics listed right now would sell for over retail price.

Is there any use for Microspikes in Cham?

Yup, will be bringing both but will probably be using mostly the Cyborgs. Bringing the ST's primarily as a backup for when I do something stupid and lose a crampon so the trip doesn't go to waste. All this talk of bullet hard ice makes me wish I ponied up for a set of your ColdThistle picks. Got a pair with you in Cham that I can demo?

Great, great, great info guys. I really appreciate it all. Thank you!

Can anyone help me out with the process for adjusting old school 404 bindings (length and DIN)? I found the mounting instructions on WildSnow but they don't cover adjustment. I'm leaving for Chamonix in a couple days and dug my old approach skis out of the closet to bring with me, but then realized that I'm using new climbing boots and my bindings need to be slightly tweaked. They're the right size bindings, but my new boots are about 1/4" shorter than my older clunky boots, hence the need for an adjustment.

In about a week I'm heading off to Chamonix for almost 3 weeks of scaring myself silly up in the mountains. I've got some thoughts/questions running through my head and would welcome your opinions and beta on any of the these topics. On some of the questions, gear topics for instance, I've already made up my mind, I'm just curious to hear the opinions of others. Feel free to answer as few or as many as you want... I'm a beggar so I can't be a chooser 1. I'll be there March 29 - April 13. I don't have a handle yet on "expected" temps in town. We'll be camping (can't really afford hostels) so are we going to be cold and miserable the whole time? 2a. Speaking of camping - I haven't found a single camp site that's listed as open. Almost every single one shows an opening date sometime in May. To top it off, I've e-mailed maybe 5-6 different sites and none of them have even responded (it's been a week at least). Anyone have a line on any camping site that's A) affordable and B) actually open? 2b. If paid camping isn't an option, anyone have a line on where we can [relatively] safely poach a site? If we have to be out at 7am every morning we'll do it, even though it's not desirable. If we're gonna poach though, we'll need a place to store gear - are there any gear storage services where we can access our storage at any time of day? 3. Anything cool to do in town (or the surrounding areas) on a rest day? Maybe a cool and very exposed via ferrata? Not sure if a VF would actually hold appeal for someone who's been out on proper alpine climbs for 5-6 days in a row, but it might be cool to do just for the experience? You tell me. 4. For the sake of argument, on routes big enough to be a 2-day affair, does anyone bother with bringing a Firstlight (even assuming there is a large enough ledge)? Or do most people just carry a bivy bag each? Or just a sleeping bag and dry it out that night in town? 5. Is there a general preference for horizontal or vertical frontpoints in the alps? 6. Where do the snowbunnies hang out? :kisss: I'm happy to hear any and all input, even the inevitable "yer gonna die!!11" comments. Thanks!! (Paging Powdherb, Dane, etc...)

Gotta sell my Atom LT jacket. No hood. Color is brown, or "Teak" according to ArcTeryx. It was very lightly used over the winter and almost exclusively worn to/from work. I only wore it for one day of climbing and it was under my shell (so no wear and tear) and only while belaying (so no sweaty climbing). It's in excellent shape... no abrasion, damage, tears, pilling, etc. Paid retail $180 for it a couple months ago, looking to get $119 including shipping. The jacket doesn't specifically need cleaning at all, but I will launder it before I send it to you and air dry it (as per care instructions) unless you're a DWR weenie and prefer to do it in Tech Wash or some other gear-specific soap and shell treatment.

Made your link clickable and hotlinked your picture. Buy Justin's ice axes, he's good people!

JUST FOUND ONE! THANKS CC! I need one. I'd like to buy yours. I'm heading to Chamonix on March 28th and time is running down. I could theoretically buy new, but then I probably can't afford to eat for a couple days when I'm there. Rides on the Telepherique are now 40 euro!!! What's a dirtbag to do.... I'm a size L (height is 6'2")and I'm in NJ. Will consider a Cilo 30L, a BD Speed 30, or any pack that's roughly 30L, has a detachable lid, removable foam pad, and preferably a modern leashless ice tool attachment system. Max weight has to be under 2.5 lbs with a stripped weight in the 1.5 lbs range. I wish CCW made something in this size range... smallest they've got is a 39L in my size. FLAG

What's even more awesome is that she's barefoot freesoloing them in a sundress. Hotter than even the newest crop of Verve booty shorts that the girls wear in comps these days.

Wanted: 2 volume set of Snow, Ice & Mixed in Mont Blanc Range by Francois Damilano (2005). Heading to Chamonix at the end of the month with EastCoastBastard, another one of CC.com's finest and we're on a dirtbag budget. I don't really have the coin to drop on brand new versions of the book (in 2 volumes, go figure) but I could probably swing a purchase of a cheaper used set if someone has them no longer in use. And of course, I'm looking for the English version. PM me if you think you can help out. Thanks! PS - Could also use an English guidebook on climbs above Grindelwald, particularly the Eiger.

Metolius Monster 7.7mm I've had a pair for 2 seasons now. They hold up reasonably well, but I only use them on ice. They probably wouldn't fare so well getting dragged over lots of rock. For your use, it sounds like a great match.

Paypal sent for WM Antelope sleeping bag.

to the top!

WANTED to buy: - Beater BD picks. Doesn't matter how used they are. - Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody, men's size Large, any color. - Anyone have a bothy bag? They're way popular in Euro-land. - MSR Reactor stove Let me know what you have and what you want for it. Pics are always helpful. I also have some stuff to trade/sell if you're interested here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1007401/

Care and precision. I've been climbing fully leashless for 2 seasons... I figure I have 70-100 pitches climbed without leashes and I haven't dropped a tool yet. I once knocked one that was hanging in the ice, but quickly grabbed it even before it had started to fall. Regardless, I'm not entirely sure it would have actually popped out completely. Even with Androids, whenever you place a screw (the time most likely to drop a tool) one tool is unleashed and hanging in the ice, so having leashes doesn't really do a whole lot for ice tool retention anyway.

I presume you're going leashless? Having leashes plus umbilicals is asking for a total clusterfuck. Just go leashless. And please don't use umbilicals on any 1-pitch or 2 pitch climbs with easy retreat options. It's not worth the hassle. Anyway, that having been said... First step is take a good look at the Fangs and figure out where you can drill your hole. Put a 4mm hole in. Thread a short length of 4mm accessory cord and tie off with a double fishermans. Clip your umbilicals to said loop. That's it. (If you have access to a cable swager, I suppose you could go with cable to drill a smaller hole. Either way it doesn't make much of a difference. Oh, and if you haven't bought the hardware yet, I have 2 fangs and 1 strike (with all mounting hardware) that I'll sell you for cheap. All you'll need is 1 more strike. PM me if you're interested.

Cleaning out my gear closet....let me know what you're interested in and I'll get you a shipping quote. FOR SALE - Osprey Mutant 38, Size L. Excellent condition. $115 - Yellow Wired Bliss TCU, new sling and cables from WB. $29 - 2 Trango Ballnutz, green and purple (I think). Brand New, only racked. $29 each - MSR Denali snowshoes. Used on 2 hikes, just minor scratches on the bottom. $95 - Ultra-light approach skis. Zag Purist Light, 161cm. Brand new in the plastic. Never been mounted. $175 - G3 alpinst skins for above skis, brand new in the box. Will fit any ski 152-163cm and they are 100mm wide. $88 - Marmot Never Summer 0 degree sleeping bag, regular 6' length (however I am almost 6'2" and still have room for a Nalgene at my feet). I've had it for a couple years but barely used it, always stored properly. No funk or smell. Always used a coolmax bag liner so it was never even up against my skin. $150 - Motorola T6500R two-way radios. Nearly new. Needs new batteries though. Comes with all original packaging and everything. $25 - BD Raven Pro, 70cm. Good for taller folks. Used once, comes with leash and pick/adze cover. $75 - 24" Snow Picket, never used. $14 I'm also looking for a couple things. Maybe we can work out a trade? Full list here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1008092

Oh, and for reference, here's what I've got now: I've wound up with 3 harnesses over the years but none of them cut it. -Mammut something-or-other: Comfortable but too bulky and the drop seat has an EXTREMELY fiddly hook that is impossible to replace without taking off the whole harness, even worse cause it has a tendency to pop out on long hikes. -Petzl Calidris: Actually pretty good, but I don't find it comfortable, I again don't like the hook on the drop seat, and I'm not crazy about the position and size of the gear loops. -Mad Rock Neptune: ultralight, packs up TINY, only problem is that it's painful to hang in for extended periods like rappelling, AKA no good for Chamonix. That having been said, I use it frequently for anything backcountry with a long approach and a walk-off. It's perfect for that.

Heading to Chamonix next month. Will be climbing TD to ED routes, rock routes up to 6c or 7a if I can get in some real good training. I'll be starting to gather beta in the coming days (feel free to send me good info for an Amerikaner to have in Cham/Grindelwald!) but for now I know I need a new harness. Here's what I'm looking for: -Must pack up nice and small -Don't want to spend too much... Maybe $80 max? -Must have a drop seat with a fastex buckle -Must have speed buckles -Nice large gear loops (I'm a pansy. I carry extra gear and sew it up) I've been looking at the WC Syncro Ultralight. It looks like it fits all the above criteria. Only thing is that I can't confirm the attachment for the drop seat - they photoshopped the buckle out of all the advertising pics!! Happy to hear any input, reviews, or suggestions for another harness to look at. Oh, and don't bother recommending Arcteryx... it sure is pretty, but I'm not gonna buy a $125-$150 harness with an 11 pound haul loop. A harness has to have a full strength haul loop and give me a happy ending before I'll consider forking over $150 for it.

I have an "Oh Shit!" biner with one of the tiny Leatherman multitools, 2 quicklinks, and 2 pre-tied prussik cords. The knife I have is similar to the current Squirt S4 models but even smaller and lighter. It only has pliers, a blade, a file, and combo screwdriver/can/bottle opener. It does not have the scissors (a silly gimmick IMO) that the current version has. It weighs about 1.5 oz (maybe 48g?) and it's been indispensable. I've used every feature of it on route at least once to repair/fix/fiddle with something.

Sent a PM, quite interested.

SOLD

SOLD SOLD I have way, way, way too many packs. Gotta sell this one, and more packs to sell coming soon. This is blue and Version 4, just before the current V5 (they're almost identical). Size L. Owned it for about a year, taken it on maybe 4 trips. List price is $235 plus about $10-$15 for shipping, I figure I'd sell mine for $150+$15 shipping ($165 total), which is about 35% off from the top of my head. The bag is in great shape and includes all straps, pockets, pouches etc. The only "issues" worth mentioning are that the hipbelt has a small stain where some mud got on it last year, and there's a tiny hole about the size of a raisin in the fabric that makes up the ice tool holster at the bottom of the pack. It happened hauling the pack the very first day out. The hole is not in the fabric of the bag's body itself and poses no risk to the structural integrity of the bag in any way, shape, or form. It is also not unraveling or in danger of getting any worse.

Ha, that's pretty damn cool. And that's why BD has my business for life. Bill, I'll have them off in the mail to you after this weekend's icy festivities.