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Another option if you're up for the drive to Bozeman is the Ice Opener on the 17th/18th of December. It's $20 for a day on the ice with the Montana Mountaineering Association, demo boots/crampons/tools (or bring your own if you wish), and lunch. The info is here, or you can click on the Prolite link and contact them for more info. Climb Sat. w/ MMA, and bring your rope/etc. and toprope Sunday on your own. My wife did it last year and had a good time.

Nice photos! Looks like you had a blast. Plowing beyond the reservoir has been a little sporadic, but has been good enough...they just got it yesterday afternoon.

First, no personal experience with the Trient. Since you requested alternatives... I'm not a big proponent of waterproof/breathable membranes on a belay jacket as I believe they hinder more than help in many cases. For another option in that range the Rab Photon is a nice jacket. A little more insulation and several ounces lighter than the Trient (and less expensive). My father-in-law has one and it's been a solid piece. My choice in that range is an ID PLQ with a retrofitted Dolomitti hood; not quite as polished a product as the Photon.

Cool write-up, thanks Dane.

On the Matrix Light's in particular its kind of nice for high dagger position--insulates the hand a bit. Not sure if that was the purpose or not.

Best jacket Arc'teryx made in my opinion.

I've tried on the Radikal Pro's and like the feel--and the boa system. They are VERY stiff. I'd like them for an ice cragging style boot. I have a pair of Radikal Light's and the compression/breathing system the Radikal line uses works quite well.

Bearbreeder is right on.

I've had the Matrix Tech since last fall and like them a lot. The geometry is perfect for my swing; they were a natural fit right away. The picks could be more user friendly to change, but I like their lines and they are tough. Even without an upper trigger I can choke up for a move or two without wishing for more. I'm no guru, but any specific questions? Hope this is of use for you.

Good post, pretty much sums it up.

I climbed on the X-ice's one night just to try them out. They are not far removed from the Camp Awax, which I like. Call Prolite Gear in Bozeman at 1-406-582-0508 and ask for Brad, he climbed on them all last season and could give you a more comprehensive review.

Very nice work.

+1 It's all about the moisture gradient (and temp gradient to some extent). PU coated PTFE membranes in particular need a dry outer because the "breathability" is on a chemical level (think capillary action) only.

I'm quite sure Bdry is a pu coated PTFE a la gore, etc. The PU thickness of proprietary membranes is generally what determines "breathability".

I wear a large in both BD and Rab gloves for what it's worth--though no experience with the Rab Modular in particular. I roll with eVent whenever possible.

I've spent several nights in the Nallo 2 GT, and have been inside the other Nallo's, and the Jannu. I currently own an Allak. Nallo pros: -lighter than the Jannu -the GT fly gives you a huge vestibule if you want it -the ventilation system is a little more versatile...with screened foot vent and the door/fly vent you can really adjust the ventilation level to suit your needs summer-winter Nallo cons: -not quite as roomy; length is the biggest thing for me. At 6'2", the Nallo's are just a little bit short for me (87" I think) and the foot of my bag touches the end wall. -not free standing, which may or may not limit you based on what you want to do with it. I personally like a free standing tent (actually I'd like a Nallo 2 to go along with my Allak, but $$$$$). Jannu pros: -stable, freestanding, and bulletproof; very wedge shaped and would buck the jet stream -a little more room and I believe it's about 4 in. longer Jannu cons: -noticeably heavier, whether this matters to you is personal of course -the ventilation system is great, but not as versatile...it is a "warmer" tent -because it is more wedge shaped, the vestibule space isn't quite as useable (think wall angle)--it's a trade off. Both are easy to set up and are awesome tents. If you have any more specific questions I may be able to answer them.

I have the Matrix Light (and Tech for that matter) and consider them technical mountaineering axes. They can and do climb vertical just fine, but as Dane alluded to, a factory rest is far preferable to the sliders/horns for long days of swinging. For "mountaineery" gully routes with short vertical steps or similar I consider the Matrix Light style tools to be ideal. If that's your game I'd say you're on the right track.

+1 on the M11+ fit and finish--fairly stiff, narrow-ish, very cool all around ice boot in my opinion. Giving the Hyper Traction a go this winter.

You can get the Rab Latok's at Prolite Gear for $55 shipped. They have always been great to deal with and it looks like they are cheaper than elsewhere. Gloves go fast as ice season hits, so I'd move sooner than later.

Selling for a friend... Millet Radikal ice boots like these. Size 11.5, used but in great condition. $100 shipped Big Agnes String Ridge 2 mountaineering tent. Like this one. Used a few nights, in excellent condition, no holes/rips, etc. $250 shipped

I climbed in them a bit last season and they held up pretty well, but they're no leather. In reference to the OP I like the Rab M14 and Rab Phantom Grip for leads in all but the coldest temps. I'll sacrifice a good deal for increased dexterity. The Phantom Grip's are just hard-face WindPro but they dry fast enough that I rotate two pairs for leads and stay comfortable.

I climbed on them all last season, just wondered what other people thought of them. I found them to be FAST but semi-annoying to rack and place in featured ice. Overall I still dig them and ended up pairing radion's with a a few Grivel 360's for pockets and tricky spots. Yeah that Camp sale was a good one.

Just curious if anyone has tried the Camp Radion's and general thoughts on performance, etc. Thanks.

Millet Radikal ice boots, sz. 11.5--very good condition, used @ 15 days. $100 shipped Montbell Breeze-Tec Dry bag cover, sz. wide/long, brand new. Like this one. $75 shipped