Eric Carter
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Posts posted by Eric Carter
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For any of the routes described above, something like a Quark (or Viper) is fine but the Petzl Gully is well worth checking out. It's dramatically lighter and climbs as well on moderate terrain. The aggressive pick swings well into ice and handles rock as well. The sliding pinky rest makes it easy to switch to plunging mode. I added pick weights to make it swing better into hard ice.
The newest Sum-tec is similar but longer and with a replaceable pick (at a slight weight penalty).
The Gully seems like it was almost custom made for routes like Baker's North Ridge or Liberty Ridge on Rainier. Mine have almost entirely taken over what I would use my Quarks for and if the climbing is any harder than what I'd use my Gullys for, I jump up to my Nomics. They aren't a quiver of one tool but for moderate stuff, they are amazing!
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11 hours ago, JasonG said:
Sweet! I bailed off the C-H many years ago and probably won't be back. But I could see myself doing this! Looks like a good fall route. I would imagine that cornices might prove to be a problem in the spring?
Yeah - not a clue what it would be like in spring but definitely a fun alternative when we found the CH not to our liking!
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20 hours ago, bellows said:
Cool, thanks for the early season stoke!
How was the West Ridge? I don't think it is in the Beckey or Alpine Select guides and I've never heard anything about it before. You should write up a TR.
Thanks! We hadn't seen anything about it before either but seems pretty unlikely that someone hasn't scrambled up it. Just posted a TR!
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Trip: Washington North Cascades - West Ridge of Colfax Peak
Trip Date: 10/06/2018
Trip Report:
With a minor storm dumping snow and quite a few days with sub-zero temperatures, Paul and I headed from Squamish down to Baker to try the Cosley-Houston Route on Colfax. We endured the Friday evening traffic to Sumas and then blasted on to the Heliotrope Ridge TH and bivvied in the back of the truck.
Our alarm went off at 0500 and we were on the trail at 0545 by headlamp. We transitioned to boots at the toe of the glacier and immediately started dodging thinly bridged crevasses up to the football field and beyond. One major detour and a pitch of steep neve climbing and we found ourselves at the base of Colfax. The crux on the CH looked a bit too thin for our bravery levels and we weren’t sure how the snowfields above would be - we were a bit worried we'd find fresh pow over kitty litter. So, feeling a bit dejected, we decided to go have a look at the view towards Lincoln Peak from the col and get a photo of Ford’s Theatre.
Crevasses were well hidden and a hassle:
We noticed the West Ridge looked pretty chill and that aside from a rock step, it might give a reasonably quick access to the snowfields above the CH crux. So we decided to go for it. One mixed snow/rock simul-pitch took us onto the ridge crest (amazing views of Lincoln Peak). A second pitch got us up the ridge to a rock step. It seemed unlikely but a 10m downclimb on the E side dropped us into a perfect SW facing snow couloir with super cool rimed up rock walls. One pitch to the top of this and back onto the ridge crest and we were at another difficult looking rock step. Instead of taking the step, we delicately traversed to a snow ramp and a 20m downclimb to the top of the ice of Ford’s Theatre. From here we followed the route and simuled up perfectly crunchy snow to the top of the CH.
Paul doing the downclimb into the convenient SW facing couloir:
Descent was via the normal route with one rappel and a MAJOR detour around a full width crevasse on the Coleman at 2650m. More photos attached at the bottom.
It would be hard to believe the W Ridge hasn’t been climbed before but I have no idea. Seems pretty unlikely that no-one has wandered up like we did. It would be interesting to find out if anyone had finished the W Ridge directly without bumping left over to the CH snow slopes as the rock walls above us looked serious enough that we didn't give them a serious look. There's probably a way through though!
Route:
Gear Notes:
We used one stubby screw in rime ice, a handful of cams and pins and, actually for the first time in my life, used a picket as pro (and was kinda glad to have it).
Approach Notes:
Standard Heliotrope Ridge/Coleman Glacier-
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Hi - I'm looking to build up some approach skis and would like to buy the Silvretta bindings you have collecting dust in a basement that will accept a rigid sole mountain boot (300, 404?). Please shoot me an email at: Eric.a.carter (at) me (dot) com
Thanks!
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Since I'm sure a few people are wondering about ice on Colfax, here's a few pics from yesterday (Oct 6). Pics show the Polish Route (img_7876), Cosley-Houston (7877) and Ford's Theatre (7881). We thought the ice looked a touch too thin for us so climbed the West Ridge to connect into the upper snow slopes of the CH. Descending to the Kulshan-Colfax Col was straightforward with one rap off a ...block (?) at the final shrund. The Colman Glacier is more broken up than I've ever seen and was a humongous pain in the butt to descend. There's a full width crevasse at 2650m that we snuck around on climber's left against the rocks.
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Nice work - lot's of bang for your buck on that traverse
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Trip: N Cascades - Shuksan Fischer Chimney Conditions 8/3/15
Date: 8/3/2015
Trip Report:
We scrambled the Fischer Chimneys on Aug 3rd. Trail is in great shape and easy to follow carins up the chimneys. Winnie's slide is mostly down to ice with a strip of snow on the right. I had an axe and a sumtec and led up placing two screws in the ice to belay my gf up with her one axe. The upper curtis is exposed ice at the tongue (plenty of running water near the bivy sites) but low angle and didn't require a belay. One sketchy crevasse bridge on the high point before hells highway, then smooth sailing to the summit. We down climbed everything to Winnie's slide where we found a fixed anchor far skiers left from which I lowered my gf and then down climbed. Overall super fun day climbing with a variety of terrain. Just going to get icier. We were almost exactly 12 hrs car to car.
Summit register is in place but missing paper. If you go up, bring some write in the rain paper!
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Cool trip! Where did you park/sled from?
Eric
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Hi Everyone:
The Canadian National Skimo Team is holding a training camp here in Squamish the weekend of September 14th. As part of the event we are having to evenings of speakers that Escape Route in Squamish has kindly agreed to host. For those not already participating in the camp the cost is $5 (goes to the ski club). If anyone up in the area is interested, come join us. There will be interesting presentations, some deals on gear, and free stuff!
Camp details here: http://www.skintrack.com/skimo-racing/events-races/september-2013-skimo-training-camp-intro/
Evening details are in the flyer here:
Eric
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http://coastmountainskiing.com/nepal-evo/
For Sale: Size 44 Sportiva Nepal Evo single leather mountaineering boots. Used lightly for 3 seasons – I have come to terms with the fact that they are just too small – an expensive mistake. All the info is on the sportiva site. Pics below. Asking $275+shipping. Would trade for a Trango Extreme size 44.
Eric
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Skied Wednesday 4/24. Road was melted out to 4.77k from the Heliotrope Ridge TH. Only had to take skis off and walk at one spot but it seems to be melting fast. Grouse creek was easy to follow onto the ridge and there was powder higher up. The Baker-Colfax Col up to the Roman Wall was pretty wind blasted and rimed.
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SOLD
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Whoops - It's a Medium!
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For Sale: Osprey Variant 52L Pack.
Used once. No real scuffs or any tears. I have an Osprey Variant 27 which I love and thought I would replace my previous 50L bag with this one but I have found my old one still fits me a bit better so I will stick with that. It is pretty sweet though, lots of space, ice axe holder, ski attachment, crampon pouch and everything.
I think it was $200+ tax at REI so how about $150? Will entertain any offer.
I am in the Squamish/Vancouver area.
Thanks!
Eric
swskier (at) g mail (dot) com
604.992.2535
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(Selling for a friend)
Super awesome lightweight women's ski touring boot. Barely used (less than one season) in great shape. Liners moulded once with plenty of life left. Not even stinky. Fits all AT binding systems. I am replacing these with the same model just a size larger. Please contact me if interested! Asking $325. Thats half price after tax!!
Also selling:
1 pair of MEC cycling pannier bags. Lightly used, excellent condition. I really don't commute that much.
1 Sun Road Cycling Wheelbag. Holds two wheels with pockets for skewers and other accessories. Very well padded and in great shape.
1 pair of Camp Quattro 4 point instep crampons.
Make me an offer on any of these.
Get in touch at swskier(at)gmail(dot)com
Located in Vancouver/Squamish BC
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I picked one up cheap in October and it has served me well on several ski tours and climbing trips. Handles wind no problem. The lack of vestibule can be a pain but if you are planning for it it is survivable. The condensation can be a pain though. That's my only complaint. If there is no snow/rain coming down, we generally slept with the door partially open to avoid excess moisture buildup. I would buy it again.
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Thanks for the comments, hopefully my quotes worked so see below for my response and please correct if I am wrong.
Semi-true. We know for a fact that healthy young men who ignore advice about acclimatization are at much higher risk of getting HAPE..
Absolutely right - but these people are high-risk for a different reason presumably. This is a psychological factor rather than a physiological one. I am looking for the difference between the two climbers who acclimatize together and one is sick while the other is fine. As far as purely predicting altitude sickness you are definitely right, rate of ascent is a pretty good indicator.
Mostly not true. Under normal physiologic conditions (except at extremely high altitudes), oxygen uptake is mostly perfusion limited, as opposed to diffusion limited.
I'm not sure what you referring to when you say not true though my explanation of DLCO was admittedly short. DLCO is the rate (in ml*min*mmHg) at which CO can diffuse into the blood. Work by Ogilvie and Roughton (and others) determined that DLCO consists of two components, the capillary blood volume and the membrane diffusion. The test we use allows us to partition these components and determine if a change in DLCO was caused by the membrane or the volume component.
Many factors affect DLCO by changing the blood volume component including exercise and even body position (like you said, a change in perfusion) however interstitial or alveolar edema would effectively increase the membrane thickness and decrease permeability. In the case of my study, I hypothesize a small amount of sub-clinical edema will occur in susceptible subjects. This would be confirmed by a change in DLCO and its membrane component and no corresponding change in the blood volume component. Hopefully will have some data to share on this soon.
True, but heavy exertion has been shown to increase lung tissue density all by itself due to increased lung blood volume. This is at least one reason why DLCO also increases (transiently) due to exercise.
Absolutely, that is why I am comparing the HAPE susceptible group to the HAPE resistant group. The imaging methods we will use are designed to look specifically for extravascular water. This has already been shown to increase by O'Hare and McKenzie in healthy trained individual but again, this study is novel in that it will compare susceptible to non-susceptible.
It seems what you are really doing is establishing baseline stats at low altitude for your subjects. To make any predictions about susceptibility to HAPE, the logical next step is to repeat your protocol at high altitude or in a hypobaric chamber.
I would also be very cautious about potential selection bias and applying your findings too broadly. The risk factors for average people vs. those for established high altitude climbers may be very different.
Your pretty much right on there. When it comes down to it, at sea level, there must be something physiologically different than the fit climber who develops HAPE repeatedly despite a (normally) proper ascent plan and their healthy partner. This is what I am interested in. And as Andy said, more specifically: why do some people develop these higher pressures?
I may have been too hasty to add the bit about predicting susceptibility but I think it is important to have a goal to work toward. While I may have made it sound like a study goal, it would probably be better to call a career/lifetime one.
There are lots of directions to go from here. Repeating in hypobaria, with a right heart catheter, examining intra-pulmonary shunt, factors affecting endothelial permeability - all good PhD options
I would be happy to chat more so feel free to send me a message.
Eric
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You are right about the cost of the CT scans. They are expensive. Luckily I am supported by several grants. Regarding radiation, it is approximate to 1/2 the yearly background radiation in Vancouver. A trip to Denali would likely increase your risk of cancer much more.
I didn't mention the genetic aspect but we are taking DNA samples (using a cheek swab) from subjects as well. Several genes have been associated with HAPE and we will look to see if any of these are overrepresented in our "susceptible" group.
Colt45 has the right idea, but in reality, using any of my data to test for susceptibility is pretty far down the road. At this point, we are really trying to figure out what is going on.
I will definitely keep you posted.
Thanks!
-Eric
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Hi Everyone,
I am a MSc Student up in Vancouver at UBC. I was hoping to share a few details of my research and find some potential participants.
I am very interested in what makes some individuals susceptible to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Right now, the best way we have of predicting if you will get HAPE is if you had it on a previous occasion. Beyond this, we don't really know a whole lot for sure. Evidence suggests that high blood pressures within your pulmonary circulation are caused by altitude, cold, and exertion. These pressures literally squeeze fluid (blood) into the airspace of the lungs.
Last week, I began collecting data in two participants at Vancouver General Hospital. During a prior visit, basic medical information was taken and baseline VO2max (maximal work capacity) tests were completed.
Upon arrival at VGH, participants met our study team which included two medical doctors overseeing testing, three graduate students administering tests, two undergraduate subject handlers, and one technologist.
Then they performed a series of lung function tests using a Spirometer:
Above is a test measuring the Diffusion Capacity of Carbon Monoxide (DLCO). This is a good estimate of how well oxygen is able to go from the airspace of the lung, into the bloodstream. As you can imagine, in the case of HAPE, where fluid is occupying the airspace, oxygen has a hard time of getting to the bloodstream.
After this, participants undergo a pre-test computed tomography (CT) scan. This is a little different from your average scan and takes abut six minutes. Rather than scan the entire lung, we just look at three thin slices. Within these slices, we are able to evaluate the density of the lung tissue. Again, in the case of HAPE, we would expect more fluid and therefore, increased tissue density.
After all the pre-testing, participants head to our stationary bikes for a 45 min interval workout. This is designed to be HARD! You can see they are enjoying it:
We use a very cool bike called a Velotron. In the next picture you can see the laptop running the bikes. With the software we can monitor power output (watts) as well as all the other readouts you would see on a fancy bike computer. You can also see the subjects wearing monitors which read their heart rate and blood oxygen saturation.
After finishing the workout, the participants repeat all the pre-test measures. Below in the background you can see someone chest deep in the CT scanner. In the foreground our technologist is monitoring the computer screen which shows the real-time CT image. You can make out her lungs, heart, and spine.
After this, we wrap it up for the night!
My overall goal is that someday, simple exercise and a series of inexpensive lung function tests could predict the likelihood of experiencing HAPE. I also hope that the research provides some insight into the pathophysiology of high altitude illness.
Also, if you are interested in this research, check out http://www.environmentalphysiology.ca We are continually conducting experiments into high altitude illness.
Thanks!
-Eric
ecarter1 (@) interchange.ubc.ca
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Hi all, I am helping a friend look for an AT binding - specifically a Fritschi that will fit a 317 mm boot. If anyone has something they are willing to part with please shoot me an email: swskier (at) gmail. com
Thanks!
-Eric
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Hi-
I am looking to sell or trade a CAMP Alpina Ice Axe 73cm
http://www.camp-usa.com/products/ice-axes/alpina.asp
It is almost new, used one weekend on Rainier. Still in great shape with a few crampon scratches near the spike. Comes with the leash.
Will entertain any offer but looking for $85 or a trade for a short straight shaft hammer axe.
I can send pics if you want but its exactly what they show on the website.
Email me at swskier at gmail dot com
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Glacier peak looks perfect - Looked on summitpost.com and the approach is a bit confusing, do you know the current situation with the road/trail to the Sitkum glacier?
Thanks!
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So my dad and I are climbing Rainier over the 4th with RMI. After that we have another five days to climb as much as we can with the gear he rented. He is interested in heading to Baker but I am looking for some other suggestions in Washington.
I am pretty confident on the mountain but his experience will be as much as he takes away from the guided trip.
So: where would you go?
Thanks!
North Ridge of Baker
in Climber's Board
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That's a beautiful photo!