d_sowerby
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Posts posted by d_sowerby
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FS La Sportiva Miuras Size 39 unused still in box. $100
Portland area
txt 541-633-0554 --dave
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I haven't been up there in years, so don't know if there's any new stuff. The obvious bolted prow I did and the route behind you as you look at it was done by Gary Rall. Ok climbing in a nice setting. Worth going up there at least once. :-)
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thanks mksportn, hope you do send it. I assume the "downgrade" was tongue in cheek :-). I think that in a few years you might change your mind and think "well I did it before the roof bolt".
Enjoy Chimney Rocks - especially the prow.
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in reply to the last part of your message: So when I climbed up "Angle" the first time, I wasn't going for a "true" onsight? That's interesting - I thought I was. Yes Ozone has lots of bolts - so? Maybe there's room there for a challenge? Something that doesn't involve just hanging off a bolt? I got a good cam placement near the old fixed piece (11/2 friend - I think) and probably could have got more gear there.
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I'm against the bolt. All the ascents so far have not needed one. We all risked the groundfall, because obviously the fixed piece was indeed a POS. We trusted the cam we placed as you have so far. Only you know if it's worth the risk. If it's not -- don't do the climb.
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thanks Bill, don't have a cast on, the plate means as long as I don't do anything really stupid (climb) I don't need one.
4 weeks today since the break, another week or so and maybe I'll try some .10's at Ozone to see how it feels. Any longer than that and I'll go crazy. So you have another week or so to outclimb me :-)
This is Oregon and loose rock is the norm - sadly.
re the bolts, I just expect the ones I clip to be in the right place, put in there correctly. If I think they're too far apart I don't do the route or sack-up and don't fall off.
---------------------dave
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thanks joseph. At least with the plate in the arm I can do without a cast so am more mobile and hopefully won't lose much fitness. Gotta keep trying to keep up with the young'uns.
Just noticed I wrote "Tom" - duh! sorry Tim. ---------dave
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yeah shit happens sometimes. Three weeks ago I was checking out a new crag with Tom O. when my rope dislodged a 50-60 lb block 10 ft above me. Just enough time to get my arms up to protect my head. The wounds on the left arm are almost healed and the right now has a 5" scar where they operated to set the bone and add a metal plate. Probably would have killed me if not for quick reactions. Another 3 weeks before I can get back to climbing, ho hum!
Be careful out there --------------dave
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all the fixed draws are necessary - that's why they're fixed :-)
We're trying to get all the webbing replaced with chain - but it takes time and money. After all there's only about 10 of us who climb there. ----------------dave
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sounds like you're doing pretty much everything you should. How about short falls onto your gear? Put in a bomber piece and move above it and let your belayer know what you're up to and fall off. Confidence building. Obviously back up the pro and don't do it where you'll hit the deck :-)
Some areas take multiples of certain sizes, you tend to build up a rack to suit your chosen area. I like to go with a double set of nuts Wild Country and DMM, maybe even triples in the mid sizes. How about not placing the obvious size of nut/cam and instead look around for the not so obvious? If looking ahead it looks like I'll need a lot of say the larger stuff, then I'll start looking for for smaller placements right now and save the bigger stuff. Practice makes perfect,
good luck ------------------dave
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You've got plenty of gear. Toss the hexes in the trash unless you plan on mixed climbing in Scotland in winter.
You're kidding right? Keep the hexes, get rid of most of the larger tri-cams, or as suggested kill something with them. As most have said you have a more than adequate rack for most things you're likely to try. Without a mentor/teacher it sounds like you're being pretty sensible about learning the basics. Be safe ------------dave
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Also, is "The Little Crag" the same as "Area 51?" If not, how close is Area 51 to The Little Crag?
Different crag, but in the same area. couple of miles apart. They are on different sides of the same ridge. -------dave
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Long time lurker, very seldom poster.
Looking for info on how to bolt overhanging lines that will be projects. It is limestone if that helps. I have searched this site and the internet and can not come up with anything that will tell me how to. Looking for direction as I am sure a few here have done it.
Can possibly rap into the wall but then I am hanging out from the wall by "x" number of feet. I have thought of rapping and having a friend at the base pull me in but have not tried. Advice would be appreciated as I have bolted vertical walls but not overhanging.
Thanks
I would need a bit more info about the line, but lacking that I would invest in some 1/4inch bolts. A skyhook is also handy. Is it pocketed limestone? then nuts and cams. Get the first bolt ( 1/4" or 3/8" ) in as high as you can safely reach, then alternate, try and work out clipping stances as you go. 1/4" bolts can be removed or tapped all the way in afterwards. You can get quite a reach from aiders - the 3/8" bolts will be about 6-8ft apart. Down bolting is probably the least successful. Have fun --------------dave
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I see lots of facts Dave. Sweet irony:-)
the "verifiable facts" referred to my comments about Kevin's need for more bolts and Joseph placing them. Nothing else. :-)
----------------dave
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Kevin (who thinks that all climbs at Broughton need more bolts) arguing that his beloved YW has to many bolts, with Joseph (who seems to be anti-bolt and anti-sportclimbing) who placed them.
Sweet irony.
I didn't "place" them, but merely rebolted existing anchors. My gig didn't involve more than that and if were up to me personally, which it wasn't, a raft of them would be gone.
Joseph I know what the anchors were like at Beacon, and over 15 yrs ago we tried to convince Jim et al to replace them with Metolius Rap anchors - no go. The anchors were a mess, rusty bolts, pitons, webbing looped everywhere. Just waiting for the Parks to say what the fuck is this shit hanging all over the wall? Finally the place is getting fixed up, about time. Thank you. People will bitch but as Bill said - They'll clip 'em
Kevin - read the last line of my post.
------------dave
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The first time I climbed YW's there were no bolted anchors. Same thing with Blownout. No bolted anchors.
Hey, just say the word and I'd be more than happy to pull those anchors and any number of other climbs where they are clearly unnecessary...
well there is a certain irony to this argument, don't you think?
Kevin (who thinks that all climbs at Broughton need more bolts) arguing that his beloved YW has to many bolts, with Joseph (who seems to be anti-bolt and anti-sportclimbing) who placed them.
Sweet irony
Disclaimer: This email may contain no verifiable facts. The said email may in fact have been sent merely to annoy.
----------------dave
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but if all those sport climbers climbed trad you guys wouldn't get those long , quiet days out at Beacon. The place would be jammin' (or not) :-) ----------------dave
You had it right on the "(or not)" - if bolts evaporated overnight less than 20% of the demographic would be left standing tomorrow.
They would at least be left standing on the ground :-)
Overnight evaporation of bolts might cause some concern to parties on the Nose etc, don't you think :-)
------------------dave
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but if all those sport climbers climbed trad you guys wouldn't get those long , quiet days out at Beacon. The place would be jammin' (or not) :-) ----------------dave
Jim Bridwell to Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles:
"Remember boys, it's a fine line between badass and dumbass"
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well I always take into account the grade, I won't bolt an .11 to make it safe for a 5.8 climber. If the moves are easy (compared to the overall grade) then no bolt or widely spaced. I think climbers are used to "gym spaced bolts" nowadays which makes some older routes seem underbolted. I always bolt so an average sized climber can clip ( I'm 5ft 7 ) from a good hold (if possible). I think you're describing an idealized "easy" sport climb scenario.
There's always a (possible) decking issue. Have younger (newer) climbers gotten blase about bolted climbs, thinking that it's a sport climb it must be safe? That attitude will get you seriously fucked up eventually.
safe climbing -----------------dave
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the extension is .12b, and as far as I know has had only one repeat -Darius Azin, years ago. I've done it a couple of times and thought I'd overgraded it -- 11d fer sure :-). Though I've watched several people try it and it seems hard.
Pretty much my thoughts on climbing/clipping - even bolted climbs can (and do) kill you.
Comfortizer is one of the few climbs that I've put up that I really enjoy repeating (to the first anchor). Most of the others were fun to put up, but once it was RP'ed then it was on to the next challenge.
I must have done it a couple of hundred times over the years, up and down, once in gumboots and once with a paper bag over my head! That was a fun day :-)
Have fun out there and stay safe --------------dave
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I don't think you'd hit the ground from the third bolt unless you had a shit load of slack out and if the clip was/is that dicey - maybe you should just fall off at that point with no slack out?
My thought while bolting it was that you were standing on a good ledge while clipping the 2nd bolt (where you would hit the ground if you fell) and then you went into the steep fun stuff where I didn't think anyone "could" clip a third bolt until on the lip crimp.
Glad that you enjoyed the climb and yeah we tend to remember best the ones we had to work for.
Anyone done the one bolt extension??
---------------------------dave
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Agreed, the moves on Dracula are easier but the route is more sustained. But I thought there were enough places to hang out and rest. I think Bloodline has been done on gear.
It's what we Brits call "headpointing" - you dial the route on TR or in this case lead and then go for it. The center section takes bomber gear, and when I first did BL it didn't have that bolt - you placed a couple of good nuts in the crack. I added the bolt when some climbers moaned about placing gear on a bolted climb.
A mistake - I should have left it out.
Kudos to Matt S for leading Dracula on marginal gear, he's a big boy and would probably rip a lot of the gear in a fall. But it is well within his abilities, and I'm sure he's probably done it enough times. Still ballsy though.
Remember that when these climbs went in they were pushing the limits of do-ability in Portland. Ancient history now of course.
--------------------------dave
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Yes I am getting old, but it gives me childish pleasure to know that I'll always climb better than Kevin, even at my advanced age.
And yes I know climbing harder doesn't make me a better person - but it does make me better-looking and smarter :-)
--------------dave
I am glad that we are at this point in the game Dave. You have shown your true colors for all the world to see with your statement above.
Just remember....the only person you should be competing against is yourself. You have and will always climb harder than me.....for I never took it as serious as you and good for you for doing so. I also peaked out 4 years ago when I decided to commit to my children instead of abandoning them every weekend to pursue selfish exploits like rock climbing.....good for me (and my children).
Thanks for be a good steward of the rock climbing community in the greater Portland area for the last 20 years!
Take care
Kevin
Kevin the last statement was meant as a joke, the smiley should have given it away.
I always compete against myself for my own satisfaction and no one elses. Whether I climb better than you or not doesn't meant anything - Ondra climbs better than both of us.
I'm glad you spend the time with your kids, good for you.
I was trying to get a conversation going about "personal choices", "dangerous climbs", etc, but you wouldn't give me any answers, except stating that I would have been at fault if Kevin R had hit the deck from Comfortizer. Something that I doubt many climbers would agree with. As you won't continue with that line then I guess the thread is dead.
Though I was right about the better-looking, smarter bit :-)
--------------------dae
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Ahhh....that explains it all. No personal responsibility, it's someone elses fault. doG forbid I actually have to think for myself.
Yes I am getting old, but it gives me childish pleasure to know that I'll always climb better than Kevin, even at my advanced age.
And yes I know climbing harder doesn't make me a better person - but it does make me better-looking and smarter :-)
--------------dave
FS Big Wall Gear
in The Yard Sale
Posted
Metolius Half Dome Haul Bag -unused --$100
Jugging set up: BD ascender (barely used), Petzl ascender (well used), Metolius Easy Aiders/Stirrups (2), daisy, 'biners. --$100
text: 541-633-0554 --dave Portland area