rocketparrotlet
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Posts posted by rocketparrotlet
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This wouldn't be the wall in the "name this wall" game, would it?
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2 hours to the cliff is not too bad. Glad to hear you got some clean Darrington granite!
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Careful of the baby rattlesnakes, they don't have venom dosage control and a bite is much more likely to be severe/lethal than an adult rattlesnake. (It sure is cute though!)
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Not sure how dry it would be today, but Rattletale was dry (except for the last pitch) and so was everything on the LTW.
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Looking for a partner for Index tomorrow. Have rope and rack, lead 5.9, follow 5.10. I'd also be up for an alpine day trip.
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I found Midway to be kind of difficult at the top. Maybe it was because I was pretty run out and kind of nervous, so I did it weird.
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PM sent on cams
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I used to have a pair of old-model 5.10 Spire shoes, and they were fantastic, especially for slab. Does anyone has a pair they would be willing to sell in 42-43 (US 9-10)? I'm trying to save for college so I'd rather not pay $100 to get them from a retailer.
-Mark
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LS muiras are my favorite slab shoe. They do have some sporty down turn but I feel they edge and smear like a champ. Most comforable all-day shoe for me.
That's funny, they are the other kind of shoe I have. I don't really like them on slab. Also, I just had them resoled, and they are stiffer than before, unfortunately...
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Looks Index-like...also, what model of shoes are these in the picture? I have a pair that I got used and I want another one. Great slab shoes.
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I'm looking for some Darrington partners for this summer...none of my normal partners really want to go there for some reason. I'd love to check out some of these walls I haven't been to, like the Comb Buttresses and perhaps Dark Rhythm on Exfoliation Dome. Anyone interested?
-Mark
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I visited this wall last October linking up visits to mines in the area.
I see what you did there
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Twice posted and never answered. I know it's funny to hold the cam above my head while I jump for it, but spill the beans!
Also, what's this secret Renton crag? I don't think I've ever been to Renton.
There was a past thread on this site that created the Renton Granite Hoax, and the joke still lives. The closest thing to rock climbing in Renton is the SR 900 cliff between Renton and Issaquah. Or the boldering done on the crack filled walls along Coal Creek Parkway.
Still beats out Everett in the rock department.
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Blueberry route is great. I thought it was a fantastic route, and the approach only takes about an hour. The granite sidewalk isn't that steep, I ran down it in sneakers with a backpack. I wouldn't want to go there if it's wet though. I found the descent to be the hardest part, but pick a descent and stick with it and it's not too bad. The other routes on Exfoliation Dome look even better, but I'm not that good of a slab climber yet. Maybe this summer.
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Hey everybody. I'd be happy to head out with anyone, I like alpine, trad, sport, whatever kind of climbing. I'm looking forward to getting out as much as possible this spring/summer and meeting some new people. PM me if you're in need of a partner for anywhere.
-Mark
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Twice posted and never answered. I know it's funny to hold the cam above my head while I jump for it, but spill the beans!
Also, what's this secret Renton crag? I don't think I've ever been to Renton.
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Are there many/any established routes on this rock? Sport or trad (I'd guess trad by the looks of it)?
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Cool, I thought that hook was lost for good. Thanks for letting me know you found it.
I really couldn't imagine doing pitch 2 without cam hooks unless I had some ball nuts or something else like them. I found them to be awesome when climbing this route.
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Ah, nevermind, I jugged that pitch. It was the "free move" I was thinking of.
Ahhhh, that freaked me out. I thought I had found my way onto Rise and Fall because of how widely-spaced the bolts were on the bolt ladder and figured the free climbing must be hard. I almost tried it but decided to settle for a freaky sky hook move instead. It held...somehow.
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Love the TR Keenan! Such a good trip. I think the most memorable moment for me was when I was straining to pull around that roof, I slotted in a nut, and something started shrieking at me...I think it was a swallow or a bat maybe? I couldn't see the placement very well, but I felt kind of bad for kicking whatever it was out of its nest. I thought I was going to get attacked.
As for the rack, we had a bunch of small nuts and cams, 2 cam hooks, 2 sky hooks, a talon hook (unused), a bathook, and some larger nuts and cams. The route is in good condition, except for the occasional grime and slime that must be dug out to put in a piece, especially present on pitch 3 and 5.
Awesome trip, I'd love to do some more walls in the future.
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I'd like to join in with whoever if anybody needs a third man on the rope team.
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I know this is a long shot, but I'm in South Lake Tahoe through April 10th, and I would really like to climb at Lover's Leap or one of the surrounding areas. If anyone is in the area and wants to climb, I have a rope and a full rack, and I'll be your belay slave on your project.
-Mark
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Okay then, thanks for the beta. I'll do it that way.
First Big Wall
in Newbies
Posted
I thought the full Dana's Arch was sketchy A3, with weird hook moves...does anyone have pictures of it? If it's reasonable I would like to check it out.
Green Dragon was a good first wall, for me at least. It gave me a taste of aid climbing and hauling without being too serious. As for the gear, we took triple small cams, doubles in 0.5-2 Camalot, single #3, a ton of nuts in all sizes, a couple sky hooks, and a couple cam hooks. This worked well for us. Cam hooks were pretty much necessary for the second pitch and helpful on the third.