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rocketparrotlet

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Posts posted by rocketparrotlet

  1. Looking for a partner to head to Squamish from this Saturday to the next one, or any portion thereof. I have a rope, rack, and a car. I lead 5.10, trad and sport. Some objectives of mine were Ultimate Everything, Grand Wall, and possibly something on the Papoose. However, I'm open to everything from single-pitch cragging to big wall climbing. I'm in Everett and plan to leave Saturday morning.

  2. I've had a hard time finding a reliable climbing partner for weekdays this summer, so I've just been driving out and hiking mountains solo. What are some good suggestions for straightforward routes (preferably scrambles) that can be done in a day? Mountain Loop Highway I hear is a good place to start (I'm in Everett).

  3. I'd like to check out a lot of routes in the Darrington area (Dreamer, Total Soul, Jacob's Ladder, and most of all Slab Daddy) but have had a difficult time finding someone who is willing to head up north to D-town. I know there are some guys on cc who love this place. I usually have Thursday and Friday off, but sometimes I have Saturdays as well. Have rope, rack, car, and don't mind going off the beaten path.

  4. I've got Thursday 6/13 to Saturday 6/15 off work, looking to climb something in the Cascades as I haven't had a chance yet this season. Weather looks nice on the East Side- was thinking of either an alpine objective or just a couple days of cragging around Leavenworth. Have rope, rack, and car, lead 5.10.

  5. I'd also be up for pretty much any type of climbing. I'm in Everett until August 15th and currently have Thursdays, Fridays, and sometimes Saturdays off. I can lead 5.10, trad and sport, and I'm also up for alpine objectives.

     

    I have a rope, rack, and car. I'd like to go to darrington more this summer and possibly check out the NE Buttress of Slesse, but I'm up for almost anything. I also don't mind seeking out obscure routes or crags that might get overlooked. PM me if you need a partner.

  6. I'm looking for a Yosemite partner for the last week of May. I was thinking of getting on some long free climbs (e.g. Royal Arches to North Dome) and possibly a wall as well. I climb around 5.10, I'm pretty open to possibilities in Yosemite though if you've got something in mind. I'll be driving down sometime around May 22nd, but I'm a bit flexible there. I could leave a couple days earlier or later. I have to pick my girlfriend up from San Francisco on the 30th but that's the only limiting factor really.

  7. I usually use any perceived damage to my gear, imaginary or otherwise, as justification to upgrade.

     

    1-inch long tear in the fabric of my pack during a Pickets shwack? NEW PACK!

     

    A little fuzz on my Dyneema alpine slings? NEW SLINGS!

     

    Bottomed out an ice screw against rock ? Damn you, Cascade conditions! NEW SCREW!

     

    Then again, there are some pieces of gear to which I am so strongly attached that I wouldn't replace them if they got run over by a coal train.

     

    As a poor college student:

     

    Giant-ass rip in my pack from some marmot eating it at the base of Half Dome? Tape it, it's gonna fail someday but not until it's more tape than backpack.

     

    Drop my ice axe down a talus field (clang, clang, clang)? Well, still looks straight to me.

     

    Bottomed out an ice screw against rock? Maybe I'll be able to afford sharpening it at some point, but Cap'n Crunch for the next few weeks sounds pretty damn tempting.

     

    *sigh* One day...

     

  8. I'm at college with no access to aid climbing/nobody at my college aid climbs. I'd like to learn haul systems and following traversing pitches. What are some good ways to rig this using the stuff I can find around college? (trees, rafters, etc.) I suck at just reading about systems online and understanding them, but I want to come back and do El Cap this summer, so I need to get these skills down.

  9. I know this is a long shot, but I'm looking for climbing partners in the Albany, NY area. Also looking for area-specific climbing forums to meet people. Despite going to college in the area for a year, I for some reason haven't yet gone climbing in the Gunks or Adirondacks. Any advice on good areas in the Dacks would also be helpful.

     

    -Mark

  10. Thanks buck. I hadn't thought of it from the angle of intentionally using up the big gear. Makes sense, and is exactly why I asked this kind of question.

     

    The title was used to add some levity and humor, and I'm not sure why it would be seen as a troll post. In my experience posting on forums (anyone remember bulletin boards and 14.4 modems?) troll posts are usually when people are trying to piss other people off. If my post looked like a troll post then I offer my apologies for that!

     

    I'll ask a better n00b question next time. Promise. Thanks for the answer though....

     

    Off_Route

     

    It's because you posted in the "Newbies" section about a cam up your ass. C'mon man, how could you NOT think that would get sarcastic responses?

     

    Anyway, I like to rack smaller cams in front for the most part. My racking system is more complex than that and wouldn't make sense at quick glance, but I tend to need a piece faster oftentimes when I'm in a smaller size because I won't have a footjam holding me secure. Hence, smaller cams up front and quick to grab.

     

    This forum isn't THAT hard on newbies. I've only been climbing for 3 years and I've gleaned a lot of information from here. It's just the obviousness of your question- if you don't want to sit on a cam, move it. And no, you are not the only one who has sat on a 12-inch ledge, but it's pretty damn easy to get the cam out of the way before/after you sit on it. I've never really thought of it as any more than a minor inconvenience.

  11. I'd like to get out to Darrington before I have to head back to the East Coast, I haven't been out there yet this year. I was thinking either 3 O'Clock Rock or maybe something more elusive (Comb Buttress?) as another option. Have rope, rack, and car.

  12. If either of you guys don't have a partner, I just got back to WA and would love to go rock climbing Friday or Saturday, just shoot me a message and we can figure something out.

     

    -Mark

  13. I'll be going to Yosemite in a couple of weeks and I'd like to find someone to climb with. I'll be heading out of Monterey, CA to Yosemite probably around June 7th or so but don't have exact dates yet. I usually climb around 5.9 or 10- for reference, long trad routes are the best. This will be my first time in the Valley and would love to get on some classics or maybe some lesser-known gems.

     

    -Mark

  14. Hippies smell like weed, grime, and incense

    Pirates smell like salt, filth, and liquor

    Climbers smell like sweat and success

     

    I'd say that hippies smell the worst. Mostly because of the pungent shit they use to cover up weed smell. It just stacks, really.

  15. Thanks for the good word Keenan! Don't think I can make it down to Oly this time but maybe later. I'm ice climbing chair in my outing club because the position was up for grabs, hopefully I'll be getting some sweet ice out there if I get a chance.

     

    EDIT: Looking for a last-minute partner for tomorrow to hit up winter rock, was originally going to do Chair Peak N Face but that fell through and left me with a free day.

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