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Everything posted by rocketparrotlet

  1. First Big Wall

    I thought the full Dana's Arch was sketchy A3, with weird hook moves...does anyone have pictures of it? If it's reasonable I would like to check it out. Green Dragon was a good first wall, for me at least. It gave me a taste of aid climbing and hauling without being too serious. As for the gear, we took triple small cams, doubles in 0.5-2 Camalot, single #3, a ton of nuts in all sizes, a couple sky hooks, and a couple cam hooks. This worked well for us. Cam hooks were pretty much necessary for the second pitch and helpful on the third.
  2. This wouldn't be the wall in the "name this wall" game, would it?
  3. 2 hours to the cliff is not too bad. Glad to hear you got some clean Darrington granite!
  4. Newborn found at base of Leavenworth crag

    Careful of the baby rattlesnakes, they don't have venom dosage control and a bite is much more likely to be severe/lethal than an adult rattlesnake. (It sure is cute though!)
  5. Is Index dry with all this sun?

    Not sure how dry it would be today, but Rattletale was dry (except for the last pitch) and so was everything on the LTW.
  6. Index tomorrow?

    Looking for a partner for Index tomorrow. Have rope and rack, lead 5.9, follow 5.10. I'd also be up for an alpine day trip.
  7. Old School Ratings

    I found Midway to be kind of difficult at the top. Maybe it was because I was pretty run out and kind of nervous, so I did it weird.
  8. SOLD

    PM sent on cams
  9. WTB: Five Ten Spire shoes

    I used to have a pair of old-model 5.10 Spire shoes, and they were fantastic, especially for slab. Does anyone has a pair they would be willing to sell in 42-43 (US 9-10)? I'm trying to save for college so I'd rather not pay $100 to get them from a retailer. -Mark
  10. Darrington first timer....

    That's funny, they are the other kind of shoe I have. I don't really like them on slab. Also, I just had them resoled, and they are stiffer than before, unfortunately...
  11. Darrington first timer....

    Looks Index-like...also, what model of shoes are these in the picture? I have a pair that I got used and I want another one. Great slab shoes.
  12. Darrington first timer....

    I'm looking for some Darrington partners for this summer...none of my normal partners really want to go there for some reason. I'd love to check out some of these walls I haven't been to, like the Comb Buttresses and perhaps Dark Rhythm on Exfoliation Dome. Anyone interested? -Mark
  13. Name this wall.

    I see what you did there
  14. Name this wall.

    There was a past thread on this site that created the Renton Granite Hoax, and the joke still lives. The closest thing to rock climbing in Renton is the SR 900 cliff between Renton and Issaquah. Or the boldering done on the crack filled walls along Coal Creek Parkway. Still beats out Everett in the rock department.
  15. Darrington first timer....

    Blueberry route is great. I thought it was a fantastic route, and the approach only takes about an hour. The granite sidewalk isn't that steep, I ran down it in sneakers with a backpack. I wouldn't want to go there if it's wet though. I found the descent to be the hardest part, but pick a descent and stick with it and it's not too bad. The other routes on Exfoliation Dome look even better, but I'm not that good of a slab climber yet. Maybe this summer.
  16. Climbing partner wanted

    Hey everybody. I'd be happy to head out with anyone, I like alpine, trad, sport, whatever kind of climbing. I'm looking forward to getting out as much as possible this spring/summer and meeting some new people. PM me if you're in need of a partner for anywhere. -Mark
  17. Name this wall.

    Twice posted and never answered. I know it's funny to hold the cam above my head while I jump for it, but spill the beans! Also, what's this secret Renton crag? I don't think I've ever been to Renton.
  18. Name this wall.

    Are there many/any established routes on this rock? Sport or trad (I'd guess trad by the looks of it)?
  19. [TR] Upper Town Wall - Green Dragon 4/30/2011

    Cool, I thought that hook was lost for good. Thanks for letting me know you found it. I really couldn't imagine doing pitch 2 without cam hooks unless I had some ball nuts or something else like them. I found them to be awesome when climbing this route.
  20. [TR] Upper Town Wall - Green Dragon 4/30/2011

    Ahhhh, that freaked me out. I thought I had found my way onto Rise and Fall because of how widely-spaced the bolts were on the bolt ladder and figured the free climbing must be hard. I almost tried it but decided to settle for a freaky sky hook move instead. It held...somehow.
  21. [TR] Upper Town Wall - Green Dragon 4/30/2011

    Love the TR Keenan! Such a good trip. I think the most memorable moment for me was when I was straining to pull around that roof, I slotted in a nut, and something started shrieking at me...I think it was a swallow or a bat maybe? I couldn't see the placement very well, but I felt kind of bad for kicking whatever it was out of its nest. I thought I was going to get attacked. As for the rack, we had a bunch of small nuts and cams, 2 cam hooks, 2 sky hooks, a talon hook (unused), a bathook, and some larger nuts and cams. The route is in good condition, except for the occasional grime and slime that must be dug out to put in a piece, especially present on pitch 3 and 5. Awesome trip, I'd love to do some more walls in the future.
  22. Partner for Mount Baker this May!

    I'd like to join in with whoever if anybody needs a third man on the rope team.
  23. South Lake Tahoe, April 4th-10th

    I know this is a long shot, but I'm in South Lake Tahoe through April 10th, and I would really like to climb at Lover's Leap or one of the surrounding areas. If anyone is in the area and wants to climb, I have a rope and a full rack, and I'll be your belay slave on your project. -Mark
  24. I was browsing a thread on Supertopo and I saw this: "What's really weird about Index is that although the Lower Wall and the Davis-Holland area of the Upper Wall are now almost always so crowded that virtually every route has a line-up, most of the Upper Wall areas, and often many of the little sub-crags, are still empty. Example: Darryl climbed a three-pitch gem on the Upper Wall five or six years ago. Beautiful climbing, with one of the longest pitches at Index, good pro, a summit top-out, and... Drum Roll... NOT HARD!!!! [explanation] For those of you not familiar with Index, its biggest drawback (aside from being wet in winter) is the almost complete lack of moderate routes. [end explanation] So, for there to be a new 3-pitch 10a trad gem about 5 minutes from the popular Davis-Holland area, should have drawn hordes. HORDES. Not at Index. Mari & I got on it last summer, five years after the first ascent -- five years -- and as far as I can tell we were maybe the fourth or fifth party to climb it. We recommended it to a friend, and he came back saying "Best moderate route at Index." - What is this route mentioned? I want to climb it. Are there any other similar hidden gems that are 5.10- or so? On a similar note, how is Dana's Arch after the sport bolted section? -Mark