Jump to content

rocketparrotlet

Members
  • Posts

    621
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rocketparrotlet

  1. Bring all your money if you go. You can come out of there and find yourself poor easily.
  2. I might be coming out to Canada for some ice climbing in February...maybe I'll see you there! -Mark
  3. That's fine. I'll take the bus. How long does it take? -Mark
  4. I don't know how to do any of this...I tried to upload them to this website first, but I couldn't figure it out. I pressed the "submit" button, a new menu came up, and all my photos disappeared. You can see them okay on 30% zoom, but it would be nice if I could get these fixed. I've already spent an hour and a half to get as far as I am. (This is why I never post TR's!) -Mark
  5. Speaking of which, we haven't heard from Josh in a long time. I wonder if he learned anything from this site, or if he's up to his same old game. The mentoring thing is working fine. He's a lot more responsible than he was half a year ago. Banning him from SP didn't do crap though but make everybody angry and satisfy the admins. -Mark
  6. Do you still have the 3 Turbo Express screws or all of these sold by now? If they're not, I'm interested in all 3 Turbo Express screws and the Ice Clipper. -Mark
  7. You could probably get a pair of Black Diamond Shrikes or X-15's for that amount. Just wait for them to come up on here or check Craigslist a lot. If you end up going to Second Ascent, bring me. I love that store. -Mark
  8. Trip: Leavenworth - Rainbow Falls and The Funnel Date: 12/27/2009 Trip Report: First TR, sorry if I don't get the format right! EDIT: Pictures resized, posted here: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/586951/Ice-climbing-in-Leavenworth.html Giant pictures removed from this post. I went out to Leavenworth for some ice climbing the 2 days between Christmas and my birthday, making for a perfect holiday break! It was my first time ice climbing, due to a very generous invitation by Curt (montypiton). We went up Rainbow Falls (I think) the first day, where I learned technique and placing screws. I did a lot of "bouldering" (icicling?) at the bottom while Curt and his son Michael were climbing, testing out different tools and different swing techniques. http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585653.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585654.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585655.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585656.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585657.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585658.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585659.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585660.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585661.JPG[/img The next morning, we hiked up to The Funnel, a 2-3 pitch waterfall on Hubba Hubba Wall. The ice was more brittle and hard here, and I had to learn different techniques. I got a tool stuck on the vertical section at the bottom, and consequently fell trying to get it out. (Darn it!) When I reached the belay, I asked Curt where to stand, and he gestured towards a slightly less sloped part of the waterfall with a thin layer of snow. I remember thinking, "Wait, what? I don't see a stance...oh." It was cool to look at the anchor, built off a resident piton, Curt's freshly-placed piton, and an ice screw. I hung the backpack with our puffy coats and some hot tea and clipped my camera in to the anchor. This was all new to me, but what a fun experience! Curt brought Michael up and then led the second pitch, then Michael followed. A barrage of ice continued on throughout, with me looking up then consequently pressing myself against the waterfall repeatedly as chunks of ice bounced and shattered on my helmet. When it was finally my chance to climb, I undid the anchor and continued on to Curt and Michael at the top, noticing how small the front points on my G-12's were and how they barely scraped the surface of the ice, yet still gave me enough support to weight them. http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585662.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585663.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585664.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585665.JPG[/img The rappel tree, unfortunately, was about 20 feet above us. I led the short, unprotectable pitch (thinking there would be ice underneath, thus rendering it easy), but there was only powder snow covering rocks. I delicately continued up, and I hooked a small tree with my ice tool until I was able to climb onto the large tree, clip in, and belay Michael and Curt up. We rappelled back down, packed up our gear, and hiked down in the dark. All in all, this was a fun trip and I am very eager for my second time ice climbing! -Mark Gear Notes: I bought a pair of Aztars from Curt! It was cool getting to test gear before buying it. Approach Notes: Rainbow Falls is like 3 minutes from the road, The Funnel is about 1,500 feet higher. Totally worth the walk though! (Who am I kidding- I like hiking too.)
  9. If you never bail, then you won't be around very long to have the choice. We all get sketched, and a little Elvis leg never hurt anyone! -Mark
  10. Unfortunately, it doesn't happen very often. Lower section looks sketch- plus the pro probably wouldn't have been as good 100 years ago.
  11. People like these make me sick. -Mark
  12. I would suggest emailing him this thread and telling him to read it. Seeing a negative thread posted about yourself would be a sobering experience, but not a flameout that would publicly embarrass him. -Mark
  13. I know that Snoquera Falls, a 400-foot waterfall near Crystal Mountain, freezes over in the winter. It looks like an amazing ice climb for the capable. However, I have not been able to find any information about it, besides the fact that a young woman died ice climbing there (a tragedy.) I am not interested myself in climbing Snoquera Falls, as it would probably be too hard for me, but I was curious to know if anyone else has or plans to, or if not, why not. (400 foot waterfall with vertical sections? Seems strange it's not more recognized.) Also, I'm assuming no part of Wallace Falls freezes over. Because if it did, everyone would want to climb it. Right? -Mark
  14. I'd be up for Index! Just rock climbing and not mixed, right? I don't have much mixed experience, but I love climbing moderate (5.9) rock routes. I live in Everett. -Mark
  15. I bought one of those pairs of modded Aztars to use leashless- I guess I'm badass now...? Those climbs look sweet! If I'm in the area again soon (and I just might be in the next couple of weeks) I would like to check them out! -Mark
  16. I had a great time out with Curt (montypiton)! Thanks again. I'm looking for partners now for some easy (WI3) climbing. If anyone is interested, PM me! -Mark
  17. Rainbow Gully has some nice, easy ice climbing. The Funnel on Hubba Hubba Wall is up as well. -Mark
  18. I don't see what's wrong with making a profit. If you have a problem with it, make your own ice tools. It's been done before. I briefly tested these tools and considered buying them; they are very nice, sleek, shiny, and they look just like new. Except sharper. I decided that they are just not my style and bought the Aztars instead...but $450 for a pair of Cobras is a great deal. -Mark
  19. The White Spider showed up! I will have to read that soon. That mountain grips me, I will have to climb it someday. -Mark
  20. That movie was enthralling. It convinced me to buy "The White Spider" by Heinrich Harrer, an account of the first successful ascent of the Eiger Nordwand (but you all probably know that). I hope to climb the North Face someday, to repeat that route. But that won't be for a long time. For now, I am looking forward to Leavenworth ice if I happen to go. -Mark
  21. Is the ice in Leavenworth any good right now?
×
×
  • Create New...