Sophia
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Posts posted by Sophia
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I don't think I'll be able to do a super early start tomorrow. Bo Marchman - if you're visiting, you should jump on Rockdan or Bmyers threads (both looking for this weekend.) If you haven't done those routes, they are some of the nicest trad/Alpine 8, 9s.
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Anyone up for a short day trip Saturday? I have an event Fri night and am marching with my company in Pride Sun, so I'm stuck in town. My summer is off to a very slow start, so I'm still "just trying to get back out". (I've been saying that for over a month now! *sigh*)
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Beer? I and any other red-blooded climber would be in! This could be more like The Bachelor. Prep your rose. (I've never seen the Bachelor, but I think that's how it works.)
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If you end of piecing together partners, I am thinking about doing a longer trip next year after dusting off the gear this year. (I've been on a force break for a year.) I have a few things in mind in those regions. I've always wanted to try French Direct on Almpamayo, Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger. I've been to Chamonix once, but it was early winter season so Mittellegi was nowhere near in condition. We were lucky to pull off Aiguille du Chardonnet and Matterhorn (only 4 people on the mountain...that part was awesome - short day was not) but not much else would be interested in going back and looking into other stuff. Unfortunately I don't ski.
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Are you looking at rock or ice routes (e.g., north ridge of Baker, Serpentine Ridge of Dragontail)?
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Hmmm...Hate to be devil's advocate but setting aside the issue of the cams being stolen (that sucks), seems like you're playing into the hands of the people who were being jerks by announcing you might not ever go back and that you won't recommend it to your "outsider" friends. It's not like they're going to lose money or anything if you boycott Index. It's not a climbing gym. I assume that's exactly what they wanted - for you not to be there. Better yet, post on a website so maybe others will see it and not go there also...more free routes for the jerks! Great! Being a jerk works.
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If it's just an approach pack, I go for roomy and wide. I have a BD speed 30 and if my rope is inside, I can't get much more in there. Even if I did, it would be so much more effort to organize and stuff than it's worth. (If I'm actually going up the cliff, then I'm a bit pickier about the size/weight. I'd get a smaller pack and strap on the rope or sling the gear.) I've been carrying an old Granite Gear Nimbus Latitude Ki. I'm 5'2" and waver between 105 - 110 lbs so I'm pretty small and it fits well. It's 60L though. Generally, I need wide packs so I can maintain the volume with a short torso. I saw a guy walking by with what looked like a Mountain Hardwear pack (by the colors) that was short and wide. I also have found that a lot of the Gregory packs are wide so they are better in the shorter torso lengths.
I looked this morning. I think the pack I saw was the Hueco:
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/hueco-35-backpack-OU5951.html?colorID=011
However, it looks like the MH packs only go down to 16" torso whereas my Granite Gear goes down to 14" so I'm not sure. The Hueco looks like it's made to pack easily for its volume though.
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Jason4 makes a good point. It really depends if you're new or experienced. I visited the three main clubs when I first moved here but didn't stick with any. I was already an experienced climber and they were pretty unfriendly. (I'm also small, a bit older and don't look like a typical climber so there's all that.) It might have just been the people I met but they didn't want anything to do to me. A bunch of them just pointed me to the classes. I considered taking one except they are a huge time commitment AND they cost money. I'm not broke but the idea of paying someone for a class when I had already climbed more than most of their instructors seemed silly. In the PNW I had already climbed Rainier twice (Liberty Ridge and Emmons), Baker twice (Coleman Deming and N. Ridge), Shuksan, SEWS, Liberty Bell, etc, etc along with a bunch of mountains elsewhere (Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, etc), could lead trad/sport on rock and WI3...so already in what they would consider "advanced" in their courses.
Then I ran into one of the clubs on the Apron at Squamish. We got to the route a few minutes before them and they started up right behind us. The leader kept asking me for beta on a really easy climb. He seemed nervous and like he was barely making it. It was a slab and he leaning in, not putting his weight on his feet so he kept slipping. Then when I met him later I found out he was teaching a lead course for one of the clubs. I mentioned that I tried the club but found it hard to meet people. Then he actually suggested that I take the course that he was teaching! (The guy who was asking ME for beta on a climb I was leading in front of him with no issues.) When I told him I was all good, that I had a partner that I met here on cc.com, he said that was dangerous and he couldn't believe I would climb with someone I met on the internet. (She was totally safe and solid...more solid than he looked.) In the end, that was the issue for me with the clubs - that they seemed so judge-y. They were even judge-y of each other (like the Mountaineers people told be the WAC people were a bunch of yahoos.) It was weird. I totally agree with being careful and learning skills but I don't agree that someone who took a club course is inherently safer than someone who didn't. Training is great but experience is important also.
That being said, if you are a total newbie and don't know anyone, you'll meet a group of people in your course who are at the same level that you are and learn the same technique so you don't have to deal with variations. Seems like you would form a natural group that you could keep climbing with through the years.
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Apparently I can't delete this post but they're taken. Thanks!
I'm in "getting rid of stuff" mode. I have a bunch of Rock and Ice and Climbing magazine back issues. None more than ~15 years old (although I probably have nearly all, if not all, of them.) Seems like a shame to just recycle them. Looking to get rid of them by this weekend. (Also - let me know if you know of any organizations or groups that might be interested in them.)
Thanks!
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I don't think that the skills to climb Baker and Shuksan are all that different than the skills needed to climb Rainier. If you're looking for big, less technical mountains, I'd say shoot for Hood, Adams, and some others.
That said, you have plenty of time to learn most of the basics (roped travel, self arrest, pulley systems, rescue, etc) and can do that on the east coast. There are probably classes up north. I'd still say to do Hood or Adams first when you get here and then head up to the bigger mountains.
If you want to tag along with others or get an experienced person to lead/support, you might want to consider a smaller group - 2 at the most (and still practice those skills before you come.) Most experienced people would be pretty uncomfortable with 3 or 4 inexperienced people on their rope unless they are a professional guide.
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I was told I posted this in the wrong forum. Didn't look carefully and just went with "north". Oops. Doesn't look like I can move it though. Maybe a moderator can? Sorry!
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Trip: Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir
Date: 6/16/2013
Trip Report:
This isn't really a trip report. We had planned to climb the North Buttress on Sunday but with potential thunderstorms in the forecast, switched to the Colchuck Glacier route (which is in fine condition with a nice bootpath, snow melting quickly.) However, since we didn't find a lot of information on the North Buttress when we looked last week, I thought I'd snap a couple of shots for anyone considering it.
Gear Notes:
Looked like rock gear could be useful lower down, not just on the upper sections.
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FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
January 5, 2011
Release #11-084
Firm's Recall Hotline: (801) 278-5533 collect
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908
HC Media Contact: (613) 957-2983
Avalung Backpacks Recalled by Black Diamond Equipment Due to Suffocation Hazard
WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and Health Canada, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. It is illegal to resell or attempt to resell a recalled consumer product.
Name of Product: Avalung backpacks
Units: About 3,500 units
Importer/Manufacturer: Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. of Salt Lake City, Utah
Hazard: The air intake tubing can crack under cold temperatures, causing the unit not to function as intended, posing a suffocation hazard.
Incidents/Injuries: The company has received one report of an air intake tubing cracking. No injuries have been reported.
Description: This recall involves the following Black Diamond 2010 Avalung backpacks (see chart below). These backpacks have an air intake system that the company states extracts air from the snow, allowing the victim of an avalanche to breathe while buried under the snow. The model name and color are printed on the side of the backpack. The PO number is printed on a white label inside the backpack.
Backpack Model | Color | Size | PO Number
Anarchist | Black | M/L | 101153, 101254
Anarchist | Black | S/M | 101104
Bandit | Black | One Size | 101052, 100981
Bandit | Green Olive | One Size | 100957
Bandit | Seth Plaid Red | One Size | 101030
Bandit | Seth Plaid Orange | One Size | 101254
Outlaw | Black | M/L | 101104, 101271, 101254
Outlaw | Green Olive | S/M | 100981, 101052
Agent | Black | M/L | 101104, 101153
Agent | Ocean Print | S/M | 101104
Covert | Black | M/L | 101104, 101254, 101330, 101287
Covert | Black | S/M | 101030
Revelation | Black | M/L | 101254, 101104, 101287
Revelation | Chili | M/L | 101213, 101254, 101030, 101052
Revelation | Chili | S/M | 101104
Bandit Avalung Package | Black | One Size |101322, 101330, 101052
Sold at: Specialty outdoor and ski shops nationwide from January 2010 through December 2010 for between $180 and $280.
Manufactured in: China
Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using these recalled backpacks and contact Black Diamond Equipment to receive a free replacement product or a full refund.
Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Black Diamond collect at (801) 278-5533 anytime or visit the company's website at www.BlackDiamondEquipment.com/AvaLungRecall
Note: Health Canada's press release is available at http://cpsr-rspc.hc-sc.gc.ca/PR-RP/recall-retrait-eng.jsp?re_id=1228
To see this recall on CPSC's web site, please go to:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml11/11084.html
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Brings back great memories! Arch was one of my first leads ever...nothing like applying those double rope and horizontal placement skills right away! Thanks for posting.
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Beautiful photos! Thanks! Since I had barely been out since last fall, I really appreciated all the rope guns! It was fun following you guys up those 10s. I've decided I should go back later this year and try to lead Moons of Pluto to redeem myself (although I forgot to look at the bolts on the way up...maybe not if they're as run out as on SYZs.) BTW - I went to Squamish last weekend and decided that offwidths are scary even if you're not on lead with a 50ft run out and a ledge. I whined just as much seconding.
It was great to meet you!
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Cool! Thanks for finding. Will definitely head over there tomorrow night. You going?
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Thanks for the quick reply! Not to hijack my own thread but are c3s generally preferred over TCUs and Aliens these days for small cams (I haven't bought new gear since before they were out.)
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I need to put together a new core trad rock/alpine rack for WA/BC (Leavenworth, Squamish, Washington Pass, etc) more or less from scratch. If it's useful, I don't care how much it costs but I don't want to spend money on gear I won't use and generally prefer a lighter weight option all else being equal. Special pieces that would only be needed for particular climbs, I'll add later. So, what would be on your perfect rack if money wasn't an issue but waste and weight was and you were buying today. Appreciate specifics (so more than "a set of nuts, cams up to #3,...")
Thanks!!
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I'll send you a PM. Thanks!
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I'd be interested in Hood. Per my original message, I'm still working my way up to being in average shape but maybe later in the summer. I'll send you a PM.
Cheers!
Sophia
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Hi! I'm new to Seattle and trying to ease back into climbing after a couple of years off. I basically know how to climb but I need to get back into shape and brush up on my technique. Would love to get out cragging on weekends and possibly squeeze in an alpine/mountaineering trip before the end of the season. Some basic info about my experience is below but feel free to ask anything you're interested in knowing.
Rock: I've only been outside once this year (so only once since 2007) to x38 and seem fine up to 5.8 (lead) and so-so on 5.9/10. Although I don't have my trad gear here (I have a rope, draws, etc. but need to get a new trad rack...long story), I was getting into trad back east (all our local rock was trad) so I also wouldn't mind getting out on some trad routes. I'm not sure how I'll do on trad lead, but following is fine.
Alpine/Mountaineering: Between '03 and '07, I pretty much made the rounds on the typical easy/moderate mountaineering routes around the world. In the Cascades, I've climbed Rainier (Emmons/Liberty Ridge), Baker (Coleman-Deming/North Ridge) and Shuksan. Wouldn't mind going back to one of those since I'm trying to get back into it but would be more interested in some lower ridge routes or something a little different. Will consider anything though. I'm not going to particularly fast but should be able to whip my butt into good enough shape within the next month to be solidly average.
Let me know if you have something specific in mind or are just looking for a partner in general. Unfortunately, I'm a corporate slob so I'm limited to long weekends and some vacation.
Mt Stuart rescue?
in Climber's Board
Posted
A friend said that another friend was hit by rockfall and needed to be rescued. Sounds like the climber's leg is badly injured but otherwise fine. (I was actually coming here to see if there was more detail about what caused the rockfall.)