Pilchuck71

I throw in my vote for the OR. I bought one toward the end of last season and used this coat right through this last Winter. I think I just saw one for $94.00 or so by doing a quick search. I thought it was a value @ the $150 I paid for it.

I whole heartedly agree....... Someone spill the beans. Where are the rock pipes and who will be the first to write the guide book?

WORD! ESPECIALLY if you're going to on-sight free solo a lot... WORD x 2

What beach can you go to that doesn't have any water?

He did not mention snow on the roads. If there is it is probably not too much as they were in either o ford van or an old subaru wagon with a very conservative driver.

I just talked to my buddy. He was out at the Comb yesterday and was stormed off. They then took a trip over by the Dome to check things out. He said there was snow on the summit as well as at the forest/Blueberry Ledge, but nothing that he felt looked too threatening. He did not mention any seepage on route nor did I ask. If it were me I would just take my chances and if it did not pan out climb one of the other outstanding crags/routes in the area. Enjoy and good luck!

Thanks for posting that Dane! After a few sleepless nights with my newborn, I awoke to see this while eating a quite breakfast. That is a great way to start the day, dreaming of Yosemite and sweeter water drenched goodness. Thank you sir and a million times thank you!

No Kidding. It would more likely than not be full of useless gear(old clothes, crappy cotton bedding, canned chili, shitty tarps.......a ton of mice and food no one wanted to haul away.....) Nearly every tree for a 1/4 mile around would be cut off abou the level of the average annual snow pack and then left half burnt because the wood was "too wet" to burn...... I have not even yet begun to describe the damage caused by carving cool things such as 420 and Billy '98 etc into any and every thing made of wood nor have I yet mentioned the bullet holes and cleverly stashed/hidden crap strewn about. These are my experiences in the few "cabins" I have chosen to spend time at in the Cascades. I spent some fabulous times travelling through the parks in Canada and I have to say as far as clean facilities etc. we can't even hold a candle to that and the ones I visited were......Oh my god....FREE! I guess it just is what it is.

Right on Marc. Oh to be young and bold again....capable too!

Not trying to be a nit-picker. For lack of coffee I thought I was missing something. Sharp talus is the nasty shit. I have seen more injuries from that and boiling water in camp than any other thing that comes to mind. For example:

Did you mean old 1/4" bolt with ring hanger and tat? I see no piton. That gash is freaking nasty! What was the cause?

Dude whoa...you don't realize who Summitchaser is do YOU? You should read his amazing posts on the infernets. Just kidding Sobo. Summit - respect your elders.

Sobo - Thanks for posting the link to the Carlos letter. A very sad story indeed.

If you are going to do that though, I highly recommend growing one of these moustaches as a disquise!

Freaking ticks! Hate them. I appreciate all the input so far folks. It helps to have some perspective of others. Riley - Unfortunately non of my normal partners climb any harder than 5.8/5.9 and I am the only one that has shown any interest in bringing their leading abilities up a notch. I might add that falling is something totally new to me (lead falls that is). The fall at Erie I described is actually my first ever lead fall of any significance. I have been fortunate that everything I have ever led I was able to onsite. Lucky me I suppose. I have always been of the old school mindset that the leader must not fall. I realize however that as I move forward I will need to accept that this is part of the process. Steve - I will definitely check out the book. Darin, Curt and Crill - Thank you for your input. It is certainly valued. Darin - this all started thanks to your Mythic Wall route It is my goal for the Summer to get that, hence the desire to up the level. I could not find a rope gun to string it for me. Cheers all, Tyson

Thanks gentlemen - Kimmo - better slab dog than crusty old scab log - Your points are definitely valid and appreciated. I do notice the benefits of the training, both on and off the technical and will relish those as the other aspects improve. Mountainsloth - This is a first for me in so much as focusing on a grade point as a goal. In the past I have sought more in terms of generalities such as increased proficiency in overall mountaineering and the technical aspects of roped climbing.This new aspect of development for me is focused more on wanting to get on some specific alpine climbs with ratings (subjective as they are, which I totally agree) that are currently above my current level. Fun is and always has been at the forefront of the whole pursuit for me. So I may be the best already. :tup Again, thanks for the input. Cheers! Tyson

I am not going to make this one gentlemen. Pretty shabby for the guy that proposed it, but I have had some things come up that require my attention. Have fun and hopefully I will see some of you soon. Jimbo - next week may work for me so if you put out a when and where at the beginning of the week I will hopefully make it. Cheers y'all! Tyson

All right, I will freely admit that in my 20 years of climbing I have yet to truly break my leading ability past 5.9 trad. I don't know if it is physical or mental but I just can't quite master anything above this level enough to get comfortable. So this year I have made a commitment to bring my game up to the level of being able to lead 5.10 consistently. I have changed my diet and been training like mad and climbing every chance I get and hogging the leads. I am significantly stronger than I have been in years and my leading head is solid. So over Easter weekend I was at Frenchmans on the far end of Sunshine wall and led a 5.10a. I then climbed it 4 more times no problem. I was stoked! I felt I was on my way to realizing my goal! Then a few weekends ago I head out to Erie and tried to lead the 5.10 on the powerline wall (first climb to the right of the bolted 5.8) I got my ass handed to me on a plate. Granted it was a little wet (not that bad though), but I felt strong and confident until the 10' lead fall. I still felt strong but not confident. So the question I have (one of the many) regarding this outcome is.... Do you believe that the ratings at Erie and Frenchmans are that far apart in comparison? Also any tips for a crusty old slab dog like myself to bring it up to the next level? Thanks in advance folks! Tyson

Oh yeah! Rub it in!

x 100

Looks like the mystery slabs to the right hand side of the valley on the walk in approach to 3 oclock rock.

Way to go Mark, nice shoe mods. I love to see how people modify gear to their specs and the ingenuity involved.

Uhm..Hard, plastic, used. Climbing stickers..... I am colr blind so I cannot answer that, but I know it is mine.

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