Pilchuck71

Are you referring the steep face, climbers right of the dirty but good corner? 4th pitch? When did the knob come off? I know Smedley would be down for participating and it would be fun to meet some of the CC Darrington devotees, keep us posted if a plan develops! I would be happy to help with some unglorious trail work. Hanman?????

This was discussed on our walk in. I think you are right. It is easy walking as well so, there you go.

A little over an hour.(which considering I don't wear a watch could have been more like 1 1/2 hours or so ) We walked fast, no screwing around. planning on 2 hours is a good idea. Not fry on the slabs? You would be missing out! Just bring water and relish the heat. My last two trips to D-town have been driving there in the rain, walking in the rain, climbing right after the rain and wishing it was hot!

I THINK it took Curt and I a little over an hour to hike in from the spot we parked. We only went as far past the Three o'clock trailhead as the first major pull out to the left side of the road on your way in. Maybe 1/4 mile but probably a little less. I don't think the small amount of extra walking is worth beating up your vehicle to avoid. Actually I really only minded the extra walk on the way out. That is when I felt like it was a long way.

not to mention the camping is pretty good and there are hiking options to be had close by as well.

Sorry SOBO, you are right.. I think it was seeing someone getting to drink a beer while at work that pushed me over the edge.... Carry on math nerds.

Some one kill me please.......the math hurts my head... Or MOVE IT TO SPRAY.

That is too bad....and sad. I wonder if it similar to instances where people hang in there after being injured etc until help arrives and then lose the fight giving over to the rescuers/helpers and slipping away. (did the desire for the summit keep him going..only to lose the will having made his goal?) Bummer.

Dang it! Then I am going to bed...

And it's on.......

True story! That is how it worked out for me two weekends ago. From water running down in torrents all over to basically bone dry....and right quick like too!

First of all I would like to thank everyone that has taken the time to contribute to this thread and say it is refreshing to get some genuine, honest input on this and witness/participate in a good discourse and positive use of CC.com server space. Thanks - @Billcoe -"don't hang out with old pussys all the time I tell them...." but they keep coming back anyway. " Pushing forty and have a newborn. I am still the youngest of my main partners (which can lull a sucker into thinking he is fit) and feel like I am slipping toward"old pussy" status as I type. What I do have though is a pocket full of motivation, partly in the form of my daughter, to be healthier and also to make the limited time out really count. @Selkirk - "For me anyway the break from Stiff 5.8/soft 5.9 to stiff 5.9/mid 5.10" That is as far as I am headed at this point.So I am happy to believe it to be a reasonable goal. - "headspace to relax and flow and find the best sequence" I think you are nailing the concept I am working with and so far finding results that I am completely satisfied with. - "aware of everything going on, tense yet utterly relaxed." I have had experiences reaching this state when at a point of "giving over". I remember a specific incident recently when I started to get nervous and I could "hear" the shift in my mental state/internal dialouge and doubted the presence of any holds and was able to quickly move my thoughts back toward the fact that the holds had been there moments before (the previous 50ft of slab) and that I had options. I could either take a breath and commit and the holds would be there, where I needed them and I could continue, or I could hesitate longer and focus on the lack of holds and I could take the fall (safely). The moment I relaxed and aknowledged both options, it did not matter which happened both were acceptable to me and I relaxed (with focus), committed and sent. I never lost the tension 100% but it was no longer a hinderance it was just an aspect of the experience. - " It's all good " Exactly. Everyone has their own mental triggers. @ Sherri - "Partners like that are both a support and an inspiration, especially when you share the goal of helping each other to attain personal best. " I could not agree more. It makes stuff a lot more fun as well.

Nice work gentlemen. Looks like afun outing. I especially like the looks of that OW. Good luck with the sugery!

Thanks folks for all the input - @ JosephH - I agree with your comments on the mental chatter. I instead of talking myself through sections on Silent Running I focused completely on the task at hand and used that focus to lead me away from the growing fear and hesitation caused by being a little run out on wet slabs. I also committed to each move and wholeheartledly accepted the outcomes/consequences which lent me a remarkable sense of calm and increased my confidence. As far as the weight goes, I have dropped 10# and improved my lifestyle in an effort to let my body work better and more effeciently towards my minds desires. The feeling of shedding those extra pounds and increasing my strength and aerobic capacity has made a huge difference in my mindset and I have noticed it on every trip over the last 2 months. I could not agree more. @ Billcoe "You're an athlete Pilchuck!" That realization has done more for me than almost anything else. Once I realized and accepted that fact the ability to make better food and lifestyle choices became much easier and also inspired me to take training alittle more seriously and commit. As far as partners go I think you are right and I am meeting more people and trying to get a wider array of partners with different focuses. On a side note, my main partner has found it in himself to push his limits a little more as well by seeing me improve he is becoming a little more willing to take on tougher challenges. Cheers folks!

I have been reading and re-reading the rock warriors way and I have to admit it HAS made an impact in a positive way. Thanks Steve!

It was one of the methods promoted back when I was a Mountie, but that could have been instructor preference....really though I was just stirring the "shit" pot.....for shits and giggles.

Uhm..standard Mountie practice is to smear the poo on a rock to let the UV rays take care of it naturally. I love that practice Maybe it was a Mountie who had second thoughts on the practice and tried to cover up thier transgression?

Thanks genepires - I was pretty happy to get on it. I am a very reserved climber when it comes to grades. Twenty years climbing and I am now just pushing myself to lead 10s let alone go for 9+ in wetter conditions. I have always focused more on the fun and trying my best not to push myself into being too uncomfortable, but after some recent effort in training both mentally and physically I am finding the confidence to go a little harder. I am having alot of fun doing it too. Smed's tuk was handmade with love by his son (cool kid).

Trip: Darrington - 3' Oclock Rock - Silent Running Date: 5/23/2010 Trip Report: Smedley of the mountains and I met up last Sunday morning to head out to Darrington. As I pulled into the Food Pavillion parking lot it was still pouring rain, which it had been since I left Bellingham. Smedley arrived and started throwing gear in my car. I told him I would help but, I did not want to get wet. We headed out 530 towards D-Town with, as Eddie Rabbit said "Those windshield wipers slappin' out a tempo. Keeping perfect rhythm with the song on the radio." About a 1/4 mile or so before the 2060 my check engine light came on....wtf.....I just kept driving determined that whatever was conspiring to keep me off the rock was not going to win. We arrived at the trailhead in the rain, although we both swore it was lighter and should stop any minute. We shouldered packs and started walking. The trail passed quickly and we were soon staring up the slabs of the big tree routes and running water. A decision was made to have a breakfast beer under the trees and watch the rain drops. We watched rain for a good 45 minutes or so and then decided to walk around the routes a bit. So we did. An hour and a half after arriving and kicking around the idea of climbing some easy stuff under the Great Arches we decided instead to walk over to the North Buttress. As we headed over to the North Buttress area the rain miraculously let up and we were able to look up Silent Running without raindrops falling in our eyes. I kept pushing to do the first easy pitch of Silent Running. I was eager to get on anything just so the trip was not a waste. Finally Smedley agreed and I started racking up to take the first pitch. While I was doing so I decided to grab some extra draws, in the case we decided to grab the second pitch while we were there. I left the ground with 6 cams and 6 draws. The first pitch went off easily and I quickly brought smedley up to the stance. The rain had not come back and the first pitch had enough friction in spite of the water running down the slabs so Smedley took off on the second. About 3 bolts up Smedley came to an impass and was not able to see the next bolt, this combined with the fact that he only had 3 draws left made him decided to be lowered back to the stance. I lowered him off and Smedley cleaned gear, and I decided to take the gear and have a go of it. If nothing else I would replace the draw on the third bolt with a bail biner and head down. Once I reached Smedley's high point I looked ahead and was able to see the line. I went for it and finished the pitch. I then brought Smedely up. Upon arriving at the belay we swapped leads again and Smedley lead out on the third pitch. Again with our limited rack Smedley headed up, the slabs were still wet and Smedley took a few slips working the crux moves,and once again got to the third or fourth bolt (past the crux) and lowered and cleaned the gear. I took the gear and made the high point and continued to finish the pitch. Smedley met me at the belay and now the slabs were drying out very quickly. Smedley headed up and dispensed with fourth pitch quickly. As Smedley brought me up I decided that I would video this pitch. I climbed the pitch with one hand holding my camera in the other and taking the most incredible video ever taken. I was excited to share this video(that is until I got home and realized I had not hit play...damn it!). I took the fifth pitch and by now the rock was dry and all was good. Smedley and I were all smiles. When Smedley reached the belay we did a time check and considereing the rap time I had to call it a day due to obligations at home. I was bummed to have not gotten the full route as it was my first time on Silent Running but considering the way the day started I was extremely glad to get what we did. Smedley and I shared a Moose Drool at the top and began the raps. All went well and we made good time to the ground. We enjoyed some sunshine and a quick bite to eat and then headed back to the car. When we arrived back in Arlington there was a note on Smedleys car it read: " I saw the add for your mother $6.99 per lb. I am going for a loan on Monday. Please don't sell her till you hear from me. John Wisenhiemer 1-800-623-1429". WTF that was all about I do not know. All in all it was a great day to be out. In spite of the rain we got some pitches in and they were quality at that. Another great day on the rock with a great friend. Isn't that what it is all about? Enjoy some pics: That snow is awfully low - Those slabs are awfully wet - You just follow the water streaks - Looking up Pitch 4 Smedley is happy to reach the top of the 5th pitch - A couple of satisfied guys - Thumbs up for sun! - And the rain was only one valley away the whole time - The routes is dry - now that we are at the bottom - Gear Notes: I would advise a few more than six draws for this climb. Approach Notes: Easy

@ SOBO The only thing about the Guide that I have found less than satisfying is rapelling with it in the "normal" orientation. When used in this fashion there is an unreasonable amount of rope friction to the point where you are having to exert some real force to descend. I feel that this puts an unneeded amount of stress on the rap anchors and I find it not so comforting. That being said however the above posts have pointed out that it can be used in "reverse" having the tails run out of the non-teethed side, which I am sure would make a world of difference. I could have probably tried that in the first place, but when looking at the device and its diagram showing the "proper" belay technique, I was hesitant to experiment. All in all it seems that my problems with the device are simply operator erring on the side of caution.

Good2go - I was rapping off Silent Running last Sunday when I got to a point of near meltdown frustration (low angle/high friction). I gave serious thought to reversing the unit but I could not remember if that was a good idea or not and did not want to experiment on route. Your post gives me hope and maybe now I won't hurl the thing off the next climb. Thanks!

Not on point exactly, but I cannot stand my BD ATC Guide. I have used an ATC pretty much my whole climbing life and lost my old one late last season. I replaced it with the guide and have been dissapointed with it since day on. Rapping with that thing is only one step away from shoving bamboo under my fingernails. Whew! Thanks for letting me vent!

Nice! The photos are great. Especially the shots of your party by Zoroastr. How cool to get shots of yourself from a 3rd person perspective. Lucky! Cheers!