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Wee Jock

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About Wee Jock

  • Birthday 11/26/2017

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  1. Dane: A couple of corrections - 1) Tobin and I used aid on our route on the Grandes Jorasses (A0 - a minimal amount of aid = we pulled or rested on 6 pegs or nuts in 1200m = I'd forgotten that when I wrote the post you opened the thread with). 2) I certainly had nothing to do with the invention of modern mixed climbing. The mixed climbing that I did was entirely within the tradition of the East Coast Scots like Tom Patey and Bill Brooker, Greg Strange etc etc. Climbing on powder snow covered rock with crampons, clearing snow from rock holds, sticking mitted fingers, or bare fingers with the Dachsteins hanging from their wrist strings into cracks, using the axe-pick in thick ice, thin ice, plates of thin ice or frozen turf. Relying greatly on footwork even on the steepest ground we climbed. I would also second the motion that Dane does hold well researched opinions, including extensive personal experience (much greater than mine - I only climbed in Scotland and the alps from 1974 -> 1978/79). Whether I agree with them or not is immaterial. His opinions have immense value in any historical discussion.
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