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RafalA

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Everything posted by RafalA

  1. Tools are SOLD. Sorry Jim, totally forgot this ad is up here!
  2. That bodes well for the tools they were showing at OR Summer not being the final, updated versions.
  3. Petzl crampons typically have small, narrow bails that fit well on single boots, but not so well on large plastics. Pick up a BD or Grivel bail; that should solve your problem.
  4. How about a proper backpacking pack, and an ultra-light pack for climbing? My buddy and I are currently using Arcteryx Cierzo 15 & 25 packs for climbing day trips and they are surprisingly comfortable, spacious and have held up well so far. I also have a MEC Genie 30 that's super-comfortable and crazy cheap. And they all weigh something like 500g and stuff into their own pockets...
  5. I've got an old-model Arcteryx. Has lasted quite a few years, and is very resistant to tears (I always think I'll tear it, never have.) Cheap (on sale), light, stuffs into it's own pocket for clipping to harness, blocks wind. Could use a hood. The new Squamish Hoody has a hood that works with a helmet, considering it when this one finally dies.
  6. I'll play along. Didn't read this in the rules, but thought I'd put in a disclaimer: I am a professional photographer, though I only get paid for weddings and events, and the occasional landscape print. Question re: Scenic category: are these limited to images from trips or anything scenic is ok? Alpine: Ice: Cragging: (Grotto Canyon near Canmore... qualifies as cragging for us locals, does that work?)
  7. +1 Leave stuff in the outdoors = booty. Accidentally leave stuff (ie. drop, lose, fall out of pack, etc.) = post in Lost & Found = booty unless claimed
  8. The Jorasses Pro is the updated version of the Freney XT. Awesome ice climbing boots, more here: http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=8094#Post8094
  9. Trad, alpine, ice: WC Astro biners on a mix of BD, Mammut, Edelweiss and Ocun dyneema slings. Yates screamers. DMM Phantom on each cam. BD Freewire for racking nuts. Petzl Ange S for misc gear (bottle, gloves, windshirt, etc.) DMM Spectre2 for rap cord. Sport: BD Positron 12cm QD's.
  10. Scarpa Freney XT GTX 43.5 $150 obo Size 10.5 / 43.5. Great boots: light, warm and waterproof. Will need a resole in a season or so. Contact for detailed info on usage and condition. photo Scarpa Petzl Dragonfly 8.2x60m $100 obo Green, very good shape. Used exclusively as a glacier rope and tagline on ice. Some fuzzing. Never used as a lead rope, always stored in a cool, dark garage. photo Petzl Black Diamond Xenos size Medium $100 obo Six ice clipper slots, four gear loops, large haul loop. Great harness, but bulky when packed so I'm trying out Arcteryx. Bought in February, used on ice only so never saw dirt or rock. As-new condition. photo Xenos La Sportiva Venom sz. 38 $20 obo Size 38 / 6. Great shoes, but too small for my aging feet. Very good shape, these were my second pair. photo Venoms Icebreaker GT260 Quantum 1/4 Zip $40 obo Size medium. Mesh venting panels on the underarms and middle of upper back. Thumb loops and deep front zip. Very warm. Good shape overall. photo Icebreaker
  11. Every time I send an e-mail to Arcteryx, be it a warranty issue or random inquiry, I get a reply back within a couple of days at most. I've found their service excellent every time. MEC is stellar as well.
  12. I've got one. It's quick, simple and effective. I have the two-anchor version. Is it worth it? I paid $5 for mine so price wise I think it was worth it. Weight wise? Well, it weighs more than the equivalent slings, so depends on your objective. Multi-use wise? Same answer - slings are slings. This can't really be used as a sling, so it stays home on those days when I think slings will be more useful overall. Haven't used it with rock pro yet, but it's great for sketchy ice as you're guaranteed an even distribution on both pieces. I imagine it'll be the same on rock. I haven't done a direct comparison to anchor setup with the equalizer vs slings, but I imagine there is some time saved, so perhaps on very long routes it's extra weight is a good payoff.
  13. Whatever fits. They all seem to work well (I've climbed on all your listed models). My preference is towards the Rambo's as I love the splayed out secondary points letting me hook pillars and funky ice more easily. I hate the rigid plastic antibot and am going to cut mine out. They're mono-only, though. I'd also look at the Petzl Dart/win and the Grivel G20/G22. A recent experience with these has converted me to the lighter side.
  14. This is just bad press... too bad, I was really rooting for the "smaller" guy.
  15. Thanks for the reports, pics and info Dane. You're the best resource for this stuff on the web!
  16. Haven't fallen, not planning to (knock on wood), and only have about 30-40 days on ice, but here's my take: To me it doesn't matter if it's the first, second or last screw - ice quality is much more important. If a screw hits a (lot of) hollow spot(s), is in questionable ice or otherwise feels iffy, it gets a screamer (I carry 4 - 6, depending). Otherwise, standard or alpine draw, again, as needed. Also, tend to climb pure ice on singles.
  17. Which funnily enough look and are named the same as the Climb Bubu tools... http://www.climbubu.com/Equipmnt/bb_mur01_e.htm
  18. Not really new... they've been around for a few years. Cool looking stuff though!
  19. Nice to see some info on the Grivel tools! Thanks for posting up the review.
  20. Not sure how new they are, but Carlos Buhler is the rep around here and I used a couple of the models very briefly last season. They're quite light, seem very functional and, well, if Carlos uses them they can't be all that bad? I'd like to give them a more extended workout this season, so if I get the chance I'll definitely follow up here.
  21. Interesting, to say the least. I didn't like the new pommel attachment as soon as I found out about it... The Ergos are sounds pretty amazing, though. I'd definitely like to try them out on ice!
  22. I've got a Petzl Adjama and it's been great all around: comfortable for hanging around on sport, sheds snow on alpine, two clipper slots for screw racking on ice and big gear loops for big racks. No haul loop on mine though. A buddy has the Arcteryx and his one complaint is that the ice-clipper slots are not placed ideally, especially the third one. I think my next harness will be the Xenos - I'd like to have four clipper slots (two for screws, two for tools) - and that harness has six.
  23. So, took the Sabretooths for a run up Cascade this morning (the benefits of living 30 minutes away!) and I have to say I'm impressed. As best as I can recall, this is my first time actually climbing in these and on the WI2/3 of Cascade they were a dream. Given the sun beating down, the ice was quite soft and wet, handily highlighting the benefits of the horizontal points. Next time I'll be heading out for easy ice, I think I'll take the Sabretooths again...
  24. Sorry! Didn't mean to disturb the status quo.
  25. Hehe, can you ask him for an extra pair for me? I'd love to try them - the new Scarpa soles are too thin to fit anything!
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