Quarryographer

Hmmmm... Just seems a bit silly to waste all that energy, and blank canvas of stone, plus rare weather window. to destroy rather than create...

Those might work for my Dad. Still got em? $30? I live in Issaquah.

Sorry, my attempt to keep it short made it hard to understand. I've looked in the archives for any pics that may be helpful, but no luck. Billcoe found a pretty decent diagram of the biner block rappel...

Sounds like Tension line territory for sure. I got the idea from short clips of Sharma bolting steep limestone. Take an old retired climbing rope, and fix it to the chains, or the last bolt you can reach before you hang in space. Drill a temp bolt just above the ground with a cold shut, or biner. Put a bight as high up as you can reach. Thread it through the cold shut, and back through the bight. Pull tight, an ascender really helps get all the stretch out. And finish with a clove around the whole thing. I like to use the canyoneers biner block rappel with a gri gri, on a single line for hands free working, and so I can pull the rope from the base after each session. You can also toprope the route this way to work out bolt placements. And if you clip a draw from your belay loop to the tension line you won't swing far on toprope. Another 2c +. Have fun! I wish we had some of that love around here!

I'm a big fan of the tensioned line. It takes a bit of creativity to get one up, but gives you maximum bang for your buck.My 2c.

And the "old route higher up" is actually my new project. There are bolts to pull in from the overhang so that I can clean the terrible dangerous rock. It would be done by now except my career and recent trip to the valley have slowed the progress...

Thanks all! I brought an alpine rack with no biners or nut tool, and slid right through security without even a search. Spent a week in the Valley, but climbed more in Tuolmnie.

None of those routes off the trestle were rebolted, they're all new. On the left is "Der" 5.6, which can be linked to "Ailed" 10c if you bypass the first set of chains making it "Derailed". Right of that is "La Vida Locamotive" 11a. And further right is "Old Milwaukee Road" 10a, which I thought was 5.9 also, but others have corrected me. Hope you liked them.

I've checked the Southwest Airlines carry on regulations, and it doesn't mention anything similar to trad gear, but I would hate to find out too late. I've seen threads about this before, but didn't pay attention.. Any input?

Found a pair of shoes at Lava point this weekend. Tell what they are and I'll be happy to return them...

I've been checking out crags all over that neighborhood for potential development. I definitely think the best rock at that exit is high up there, in nearly inaccessible places. I've seen scat and tracks of every mountain critter up there, including cougar, but never had the pleasure of a face to face... Except for a goat. What an experience! But it also brings me back to the same nagging feeling, that maybe I shouldn't make a reason for more monkeys to slog up the hill, and use their living room for a jungle gym... Goddammit, I sound like DAWG!

I'm pretty sure Yoder was also given the boot by the mounties back in the day. I guess they had issues with people surpassing their "leaders". Not exactly a healthy environment for progression of the sport imo...

Hey there, I'd be interested in these if they're not gone already. But I haven't worked in quite a while, so I'm hoping that my tax return will cover it. Or if trade is a possibility. Let me know what you're thinkin, and it may be a few weeks out. So if you have a buyer I'd understand. One question, is there a place for umbilicals? (sorry I don't know how they're spelled) Email is faster rustins@gmail.com

In July of 2007 I fell 25 feet at work. My heel taco-ed in all the way up and touched the inside of my calf. My fibula also broke under the strain. Several surgeries later my doctor said I'd likely have to walk with a cane for the rest of my life, oh and to just give up on the silly idea of climbing. I was so choked up I wanted to cry. That statement however is what pushed me through the pain of recovery. Not sure if it was denial or determination. Probably ignorance. Anyway. In my unprofessional and obtrusive opinion: You probably have a little soft tissue damage, which slightly worse than a broken bone IMO. because the healing process is so much more frustrating. In my case I was often pushing the soft tissue too far, and doing more harm than good. Here's what I was told in PT. Push for strength and flexibility only until it's swollen, then ice. I had the luxury of the Cryo-cuff (I'ce & electric stem) to remove swelling + boost circulation. Then repeat. In your case it hasn't even been two months yet, so don't get too crazy. I was told to expect 3 months minimum for soft tissue in the ankle (Bones are only 6 weeks). Because people can't stay off their feet. Good luck to you sir.

I respect that he's out foolin around, however odd. And not just sitting back bitchin about others style and ethics... Real climbers climb whatever they can, whenever they can.

zzzzzzzzz... snore.... fart.... Same old broken record, in the age of mp3s. I feel sorry for you, letting your "principles" get in the way of the obvious progression of the sport. While you sit at home and rant about others ethics or lack thereof. The new generation of bolt clipping, plastic pulling "unethical" kids are out warming up on lines you'll never even project. Climbing is climbing dude. Trad, Sport, Ice, Bouldering, Even plastic. All the "REAL" climbers out there know it. And even though many of them have a favorite, most of them will do whatever they can whenever they can. P.S. I'd love to see a TR from you doin somethin, anything, recently.

Don't climb at sport crags then... There is plenty of Alpine radness around. I recommend you stay away from Index as well, there's some remnants of a quarry operation there. Oh and chains must be trash also so all the popular crags are out too. Sorry for your luck dude...

Thanks Lucky! Still not as good as some of your routes, but gettin there. I got the idea to break it in half from climbing at Equinox. Where if they didn't put anchors when it went up several grades, there wouldn't be much I could climb there...

Also, the canyoneers are using a really small "5mm?" kevlar sheath cord doing some hairball shit these days...

Despite what the donkey says, there are many routes in Riggins that were not manufactured some as easy as 5.9, others projects well past 14c. IMO Tractor boy the manufactured route in question is an improbable and impressive line that was "altered" from 5.17 to a mere mortal 13b, with some pretty rad moves. Also swing by Hells canyon while you're in the hood for a plethora of moderate climbs on bullet limestone. And yeah, I've got a book you can borrow, and I live in Seattle.

Nope it's definitely been moved. The old placement still has a hole with the sleeve in it (old 5 piece). There was nothing wrong with the bolt. Nearest I can tell they wanted to make it easier to see from the ground...?...

Went to Nevermind today, and noticed someone decided to move the 3rd bolt on Love Buckets. I have my doubts that it was the first ascentionist. So when did it become ok to change other peoples routes to your liking.

I've stayed at the pullouts before, but found it's worth the $12 a night for the Lone Fir campground. Far less bugs and traffic. Only a ten minute drive to the pass. And NO on cellie, you'll lose good coverage in rockport, with a tiny window in Newhalem, after that it's all the way to Winthrop before it comes back. Have fun! That's my favorite climbing neighborhood in WA

Well we're still working on a solid consensus. So far five strong climbers that I know have done it. The majority so far is 11b, but I've heard the range from 10d to 11c. I guess it's a style thing. One thing is for sure, everyone who has sent it loves it! Get on it! And btw, Burdos climb black market is 10 feet west, when you get to the ledge under the roof look west and you can see a directional bolt cleverly placed. Rusty

Two hours from LaGrande is some really awesome multi-pitch limestone. In Hells Canyon, no guidebook, but most everything is 10- to 11-. Don't get bummed out on the drive in, when all you see is rotten basalt. keep driving til you're eight miles south of the dam Idaho side. You can't miss it!