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dirtysouth

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Posts posted by dirtysouth


  1. Trip: Mt Hood - North Face

     

    Date: 4/2/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Thanks to the added stoke from some recent trip reports, we headed up the North Face right couloir. Started from Tilly Jane Cabin, dropped onto the Eliot just past the rock shelter around 7000ft. Afterwards, we descended the Sunshine Route, which besides the upper bergschrund, was really straightforward and quick. For a route that "faces north" (actually northeast) we were surprised to spend almost the whole day in the sun.

    Approaching the schrund

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    First ice pitch in good condition

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    Just above the first ice pitch

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    Second ice pitch

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    Cathedral Spire saddle

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    Dropping over the bergschrund near Horseshoe Rock on the descent

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    Plodding down Snow Dome

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    Gear Notes:

    Brought rope/screws/pickets, but with the hero ice, opted to keep it all in the pack

     

    Approach Notes:

    Cooper Spur TH - Tilly Jane Cabin - rock shelter - left/se side of Eliot - right side of bergschrund


  2. Trip: Newberry Crater - Paulina Falls Ice

     

    Date: 12/21/2012

     

    Trip Report:

    Nothing too special, but we've got a little ice here in Central Oregon! Significant water flow behind the falls, but perhaps a couple short lines would take screws. Conditions are way fatter than they ever were last year.

    IMG_11312.JPGIMG_1132.JPG

     

    Gear Notes:

    We set up TR's using natural anchors above the falls. Could be led at WI 4-5 with short screws.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Park at 10-mile Sno Park and hike up the road or sled trail 2.5ish miles up to Paulina Falls Overlook.


  3. Hey Greg,

    Indeed the South ridge and SE ridge join up. There are cairns marking where to go after they join. Continue across the traverse you mentioned (sometimes you can go up 30 ft and hop into a moat that forms here to avoid exposure or needing crampons and axes). However, I just spoke to someone who did that traverse yesterday and there was no snow anywhere on the traverse at all. After this, wrap around up and to the right into the Bowling Alley. There is a short (4 ft) step surrounded by choss to enter the Bowling Alley and on top of that step, you should be able to look up and right and see old slings/tat that mark the spot to belay from or rap off of at the top of the gully. It's usually safest to start at the bottom left side of the Bowling Alley and stay left, until traversing up and right (towards the old slings) near the top. From there, it's fairly intuitive to reach the summit. Scramble up and go left towards the higher summit. Doing this will require a short ridge walk, then some 4th class moves onto the summit proper. Hopefully this helps and my explanation isn't too confusing :)


  4. Paulina Falls in the Newberry Crater near LaPine usually freezes up for a while every year. There's some other stuff on the east side of the Cascades in Central Oregon around 5000 ft and up that freezes as well but is really tough to get to.


  5. Hey John - the traverse was only about 15-20 ft across. Last year on Sept 5, I was able to skirt that traverse also by sticking in the moat at the base of the rock, but it wasn't there this time....I was really hoping for that.....maybe in a couple more weeks of high temps/warming rock? It cost us about an hour because there was no moat. So we down climbed a bit and chopped steps at what looked to be the safest/shortest snow patch across.

    Another traverse pic

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    And looking at the traverse where I hoped the moat would be

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  6. Trip: North/Middle/South Sisters - 3 Sisters Marathon

     

    Date: 8/17/2012

     

    Trip Report:

    Looks like there hasn't been a Sisters Marathon TR in a while, so here goes.....

    Drove up to Pole Creek Trailhead and were hiking by 4:20am.....

    North Sister went fairly smooth, minus some shenanigans on the traverse (had to chop steps in the snice to get across. Hiked up to the saddle and headed up the scree to the South Ridge?, which meets up with the SE. The Bowling Alley went smooth as well, and nothing fell on us.....holds only as solid as they need to be, and only where they need to be. Topped out on N Sis at 9:20am in 5 hours.

    The descent on N Sis was uneventful, and we dropped down to the saddle and went up Middle Sister. Not much to describe here, just went right around Prouty Point and headed up, topping out at 11:50am in 7.5 hours total.

    Descended the South Ridge/scree fields and headed for the NW Ridge of South Sister. Plenty of spots to refill water and hang out in the nice alpine lakes and meadows in between Middle and South. Mercifully ended the scree slog up the NW Ridge and reached the summit at 4:15pm, about 12 hours after we started.

    Descended the South Side route and were at Devils Lake and the car at 6:15pm.

    Not sure about the mileage (16-18 miles?), but 10k vert gained in a touch under 14 hours.

     

    Sunrise on the Middle Sister

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    Traverse Shenanigans

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    Bowling Alley

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    Descending North Sister Summit

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    Middle Sister Summit view of South Sister

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    After the snow fields, the brutal scree of the upper NW Ridge

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    3 down! Now on to Devils Lake...

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    Hiking out

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    Gear Notes:

    Have taken a rope in the past but chose not to this time. Ice axe would have been nice for chopping steps in the traverse, but we did it with a whippet (not ideal).....no crampons this time either.....only could have used them on the traverse, but we made do without. Iodine tablets for refilling water in lakes/streams. Helmets for sure!

     

    Approach Notes:

    Went North to South and started from Pole Creek TH.....snow free the whole way up to the Hayden Glacier.


  7. Proud effort! The weather on Logan can be insane.....I climbed the East Ridge in 2009 and we hung out on the edge of the summit plateau for 6 days waiting for our shot. I would also highly recommend flying with Paul on the US side. We flew in with Andy Williams from Kluane Lake and didn't enjoy dealing with him at all.


  8. Trip: Mt Sir Donald - NW Arete

     

    Date: 8/9/2012

     

    Trip Report:

    Headed up Sir Donald on our way out of the Bugaboos. Decided to do it car-to-car instead of hauling all our stuff up to the bivy.

    Started at 3:30am, at the bivy at 5am, at the col at 5:40am, topped out a little after 8am, pictures and lunch for 30 min, downclimbed the ridge and were back at the car at 1:30pm.

    We encountered many other parties that day that had brought ropes and racks for pitching out the ridge and rapping down, but we had read that the rappels can be super frustrating and sometimes dangerous (major rappelling accident there on a 50m rope in 2006) so we decided to downclimb, which we were a bit nervous about, but turned out to be ok.

    I kind of thought that it would just be a couple moves of 5th class climbing and tons of scrambling up the ridge, but as lame as it sounds, it was pretty "sustained" at 5.3. I feel pretty weak even saying that, but it definitely made us a little nervous on the way up....."we've got to down climb all this?!?!" We were definitely careful on the way down, and it required plenty of concentration, but perhaps it was faster, and our packs were as light as they get.

    Bivy

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    Cool sunrise at the col

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    Awesome NW Arete 5.3

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    Cool exposure!

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    2500 ft of low 4th/5th class climbing on the ridge

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    Great views from the summit

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    PS - there's plenty of false summits

    Gear Notes:

    If rappelling, you should probably bring a 60m rope

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