dirtysouth

Trip: Bugaboos - Pigeon/Bugaboo/Crescent Spires - Date: 8/7/2012 Trip Report: Conditions update on the Bugs.....We were up there from 8/2-8/7 and climbed several routes: Pigeon Spire West Ridge Bugaboo Spire Kain Route Rest day Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge Crescent Spire Ears Between All routes were snow/ice free and approaches were fast. The hike from Applebee Dome to Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col was taking about an hour, with most folks opting to go without crampons. A couple of cracks were rapidly opening up on that approach. Temps were warm that week were around 17C/63F. We actually ended up climbing the NE Ridge in t-shirts all day from 4:30am til 2:30pm back at camp. People had warned us of cold temps the week before, when everyone was climbing in their Das Parkas! A few pics to get the stoke going..... West Ridge of Pigeon NE Ridge of Bugaboo 5.6 pitch on the Kain Route Following the first pitch on the NE Ridge Soaking it in! Throwing the ropes to rap down the Kain Route Rapping down from Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col Approach Notes: Crampons might be more helpful as things melt out quickly and the approach routes change. Ice axe was nice for the way down the col in slushy afternoon snow.

Trip: Mount Washington - North Ridge Date: 6/13/2012 Trip Report: Had a great trip on Washington's North Ridge yesterday. Left the car at 10:45....alpine start, baby! Approach on the PCT was straightforward, although it eventually turned snow-covered and we saw no trace of the North Ridge climbers trail marker, so after an hour, we just headed east and uphill. Tree wells were pretty gnar and we did lots of up and down and around on the mushy snow....took lots of time and energy - maybe in 3-4 weeks it'll be melted out all the way up to the ridge. Got on the crest of the ridge and on route around 1:45. Plenty of snow and some melted out trail to hike on. Ditched the skis and boots low on the ridge. Had to scramble around some snow-filled gullies and had some scrambling traverses that won't be necessary in a few weeks when it all melts out. After finding our way to the base of the summit pinnacle, we opted not to rope up, being that placing pro seemed sketchy and not beneficial. Fortunately all the moves up the ramps and chimneys were mostly free of snow and ice and proved easy. Cool exposure. Topped out at 4:30...a little later than I'd liked. 3 raps off the fixed slings/rings on our 50m rope went easy and we scrambled back down and out. A few ski turns before the tree wells got the better of us. Back at the car at 8:30pm. Cool mountain - would love to climb the same route in 2 months and shave off a few hours with lighter packs and no snow. Gear Notes: Helmets, ice axe or whippet, 50m rope and minimal rack, but didn't place any gear - maybe I could have placed a piece or 2 for mental pro Gear we brought and didn't really use or need - skis, skins, ski boots, crampons, nuts/cams/extra slings.....I climbed most of the north ridge and summit pinnacle in five ten guide tennies, but would have been much nicer in light mountaineering boots or waterproof trail runners. Approach Notes: Brought skis, but wasn't worth it......20 lbs that we didn't need

Another guy got to it a couple hours before you. Thanks for the interest though!

Sold!

Price drop - $150.....anyone.....anyone?

An icy ski down is what we got from our uber-ultra-hard-core 11am alpine start! Would have been way nicer if we had topped out 2 hours earlier.

Yeah - forecasted temps for this coming week are 10-15 degrees higher than when we went up....could soften it up really nice! I'd start way earlier than our 11am "alpine start" though. All that rain in the area made the snowpack as stable as it's ever gonna be. You should get up there before the next big snows come!

Trip: Diamond Peak - Pioneer Gulch Date: 2/1/2011 Trip Report: We were able to drive up to about 4400 feet on road 1249. After parking and grabbing our stuff, we hiked/skinned up through road 2160 up towards the mountain from there. A fast and hard snowpack made it easy to bootpack or snowshoe up. The snow softened up a little bit as the day progressed, but forecasted temps were in the 20's which kept everything stable and fast. Left the car at 11, topped out at 4, and we were back down by 6, spending 30 minutes up top. First time on Diamond for both of us - we were stoked!!! Finding the ridge Higher on the ridge Arriving at the false summit Sweet views from the summit ridge! Fast and icy ski down Gear Notes: Skis, skins, crampons.....snowshoes, board Approach Notes: Able to drive to about 4400 ft

Trip: St Helens - Worm Flows Date: 1/25/2011 Trip Report: Great weather....fast and icy conditions made for a quick climb and a shady descent. Crampons would have been nice for the top 800 feet. Gear Notes: Skis, skins, some were able to snowshoe all the way up. Crampons would have been nice. Approach Notes: Marble Mountain

$160 anyone? - this thing has been to the top of denali and mt logan - but i won't charge you any extra!!!

any pics? i'm heading up on tues and would love to see what conditions look like.

WARM down puffy parka that retails for $300. Size Large, Color Sapphire Blue. Been used on several trips and in like-new condition. Gimme a call or email if interested - (503) 890-5201 - joshsgarner@hotmail.com - Josh The official Mountain Hardwear page is pretty informative: http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Sub-Zero-SL-Parka/OM0567,default,pd.html

Way to make it happen.....especially from P-town!

Trip: Adams - South Spur Date: 8/8/2010 Trip Report: not too much beta to give here.....just a conditions update. it's possible to stay off snow until about 8500 ft, although firm early morning conditions are making the snow travel very fast and icy. after starting at 1:30, we reached the lunch counter at 5:30. after a few gear malfunctions and athletic/duct tape solutions, we topped out at 10:30. there's still plenty of snow up there, but the sun cups are more like small penitentes above pikers peak:) for the descent, i was glad to have skis (for the most part). i was able to barely ski the top 300 ft or so, before i thought better of it and walked down most of the final summit headwall. however, from pikers peak to lunch counter was delicious....smooth and creamy around 11:30. from there on down it was mostly perfect corn as well, although i had to avoid several patches of large sun cups. i was able to string together the snow patches until just below 7k for a 5000ft august ski run! Gear Notes: whippet and skis Approach Notes: cold springs

nice work! what time did you leave/top out? you were able to skin/ski crampon all the way up the wy'east?

Anyone interested in the East Ridge could check out my TR on mountainproject - http://mountainproject.com/v/international/north_america/canada/106457887

Always ready to self-arrest.....even when your shirt's off - Nice! Safety third!

Whoa, killer video! I almost drove up from PDX last week, but ended up on Hood instead. What was the round trip time for you guys?

Hmmmm, for those 2 extra hours of sleep.....yeah, I'd offer a case of Black Butte for that. Anyone interested in a little extra "training" this week, between the hours of 2-4am?

Trip: Hood - West Crater Rim Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: Got to avoid some of the crowds by kicking up the West Crater Rim on Saturday. A nice variation to the SS slog, with a fun 45 degree slope to get up on the rim (maybe a 50 or so degree bulge at the end). Perhaps took us an extra hour over the normal Hogsback-Old Chute route. Our route in red, climbers left of Crater Rock Approaching the mini-coulior we climbed Getting after it! Near the Rim, Crater Rock in the background Nice resting spot on the Rim - good views of the Upper Reid below Looking towards the "ledge" and the Hogsback/Old Chute Lots of climbers on the Hogsback Looking down at our tracks from the Old Chute Shameless summit shot Gear Notes: We brought a 30m rope and a couple pickets for the initial slope - not necessary for the more experienced Approach Notes: Any ideas on how to fall asleep while skinning up the Palmer?

Until I read your trip report, I thought it was pretty cool that I put first tracks up the West Crater Rim on Saturday No seriously, congrats on a sweeeeet climb!

Yeah, we didn't know it was gonna be awesome until 500 ft above the Palmer......after several attempts to turn around and ski the windblown crud above T-line.

Trip: Hood - South Side Date: 2/25/2010 Trip Report: Heard about a tiny weather window for Thursday afternoon, and decided to head up to Timberline. Left the parking lot in high winds and snow at 7am Decided we weren't having fun and wanted to ski down - 7:30, 8am, 8:30 and 9am. Broke through the clouds above the top of the Palmer at 9,000 ft - 10am Decided it was too warm for my rime-ice-coated 9-layer system - 11am Hogsback sandwiches - noon Summit via icy Pearly Gates - 2pm Descended the old chute Gorgeous snow on the descent from 11k-9k, then back to the Palmer crud Gear Notes: Pearly Gates area was pretty icy in one spot for 20-30 ft. Bring a tool if you wanna climb it. If not, traverse to the Old Chute. Approach Notes: Uuuuuughh, I hate the Palmer.

I found a snowboard on hood. Please email me with the details if it's yours. joshsgarner@hotmail.com

Trip: Mt Hood - Pea Gravel Ridge Date: 1/29/2010 Trip Report: A great weekend trip with friends up to Pea Gravel Ridge. Getting to tree line Dropping into the soft stuff Another lap