Jump to content

kinnikinnick

Members
  • Posts

    134
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by kinnikinnick

  1. whoops. duh. no wonder i was super confused about the whole coming from the east side bit
  2. ive been up there this winter... just follow the directions from any guidebook. theres probably snow down low now but when i was there in january there wasn't snow until dailey prairie.
  3. im a big proponent of running up mountains. don't just hike si with a heavy pack, run up it and carry nothing except for a jacket. walk down. this is of course not so easy if you live in a flat place...but the benefit is less time, more fun, less stress on joints, increased balance, and deeper lungs, a very important thing for feeling good at altitude. more o2 the better
  4. a trick question maybe? no such thing as a grade VI in the nw?
  5. why drytool when you can climb it with your hands?
  6. thanks dane i knew that moving the bail back a hole would increase frontpoint size but why the petzl front bail?
  7. i wear a size 12 mountain boot and use grivel g12s. i bought extender bars for the crampons because i want my frontpoints to stick out a bit further than they currently do but the bars dont seem to do anything. am i spacing out on something?
  8. i like pickets sometimes. but ice tools are much more useful in a bar fight
  9. i wonder how hard you babies can send if its painful to tilt your neck sideways to view a picture i have a severe case of technoretardation and will figre out how to fix the photos when i have time
  10. Trip: Exfoliation Dome - West Buttress Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report: on sunday jordi v and i climbed the west buttress of exfoliation dome. here is a pitch by pitch breakdown of the route as we climbed it: p1: climb the low angle, low-fifth slab split by a wide crack to a cedar belay. p2: climb above the tree into a left-facing dihedral. jam the 10 foot dihedral then undercling traverse left then up the 3-4 inch crack. a tricky leg-eating offwidth leads to a cedar belay. a fun pitch! p3: the technical crux. climb directly above the belay and into a right-facing corner. establish a semi-hanging belay beneath a weakness in the roof. the crux moves are slabby, bolt-protected and kinda awkward. a bit soft for the grade. imo maybe 5.8 for a couple moves. p4: the mental crux. pull through the roof right above the belay and follow offwidths, hand cracks, finger cracks and flakes with some runout to a waist-deep exfoliated flake. i ran out of cams and rope here and jammed myself in the flake and belayed jordi up. p5: a short maybe 30 foot pitch up to a ledge with trees.i think most people simulclimb the last 30 feet of p4 but i wasn't in the mood seeing as i had no more pro, was a good 20 feet above my last cam and knew that jordi would be pulling through the 5.8 roof and might fall. p6: easy climbing right above the belay with some runout until a flake system is reached. belay from the top of the flake from a ledge. p7: traverse right and into a right-facing corner with a handcrack in the back. whitelaws topo calls it a thin crack...maybe freeze-thaw cycles have widened the crack over the years? the corner is about 15 feet high. runout low 5th and 4th class slabs lead to blueberry terrace. jordi on the infamous granite sidewalk: jordi on p3: the bombproof body cam anchor at the top of p4: Gear Notes: a rack of cams from .3-3 and a purple tcu. doubles in 2, .75 and 1. set of nutz Approach Notes: a lot easier than rumor has it
  11. holy shit! that is an impressive-looking line
  12. lets climb. if you are experienced send me a pm and we can discuss. im primarily interested in climbing peaks
  13. anyone been out to Darrington lately? curious if the road is opened
  14. hey man my name's will...were you the other bellinghamer up at the base of the gns at index a couple weekends ago?
  15. Any'uh'ya'll been up to static point recently? mountain bikes necessary? Gracias cabrones
×
×
  • Create New...