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t_rutl

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    Current conditions beta for WA Pass

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    SEWS and Liberty Bell are warm and dry.

     

    Approached that and LB in tennies but was a little sketch in the AM going up between LB and Concord. There is only snow for the last couple hundred feet though. Was hard before the sun hit it but did it just fine taking it easy.

     

    Much more snow though heading to SEWS but still fine in tennies. There was a guy up there in Chacos.

     

    All the routes look free and clear of snow.

     

    Blue Lake Trail is snow free.

    Mountaineering Boots

    in Newbies

    Posted

    they also recommend them for Baker. usually to prevent user error or to insure the client doesn't end up bringing an inadequate boot or one that wasnt maintained. but none of the major guide companies require them for a summer trip up Rainier just to clarify.

     

    if they are required for whatever reason or that is what you would prefer, i'd just rent unless you can find a dirt cheap pair or plan on winter climbing, trips to AK or other, higher elevs. just my 2 cents.

     

    either way, have a fun trip and enjoy.

    Mountaineering Boots

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Why plastics? There are insulated synthetic/leather boots out there that are more than adequate for a summer Rainier trip and are lighter and much more comfy. Think Trango Extreme, Nepal Evo's, Scarpa Freney and boots in that category.

    Say what? Missing climber on Rainer

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    "His companions stopped to rest, and when they pulled in the rope to regroup they discovered that Lewis had unclipped from the rope and was no longer with them, said Lee Taylor of the National Park Service."

     

    That's an add one but hope they find him and soon.

     

     

    MOUNT RAINIER, Wash. - A search is under way for a climber missing near the Mount Rainier summit since Thursday afternoon.

     

    Eric Lewis, 57, of Duvall was on a steep slope, ascending the Gibraltar Ledges Route in near-whiteout conditions with two climbing companions when he disappeared.

     

    His companions stopped to rest, and when they pulled in the rope to regroup they discovered that Lewis had unclipped from the rope and was no longer with them, said Lee Taylor of the National Park Service.

     

    They immediately established anchors in the snow and swept the length of the rope across the slope below them, but were unable to find their climbing partner.

     

    The two climbers returned to Camp Muir at 10,200 feet, and rangers launched a search for the missing climber. The rangers ascended to the summit late Thursday afternoon, but found no signs of Lewis.

     

    Search efforts expanded Friday, with park climbing rangers and commercial climbing guides from Rainier Mountaineering, Alpine Ascents, and International Mountain Guides joining the search, Taylor said.

     

    Two helicopters have also been called in - a Chinook from Joint Base Lewis-McChord and an MD-530 with Northwest Helicopters in Olympia. The weather is overcast, with a heavy cloud layer at 8,000 feet.

     

    Searchers have located Lewis' backpack, with his climbing harness and shovel inside, at 13,600 feet. A snow cave was found at 13,800 feet. It appears Lewis still has his ice ax and crampons with him.

     

    Taylor said Lewis' chances of survival appear to be fairly good.

     

    "The fact that there is a snow cave ... shows that he probably sought some shelter and got some rest," Taylor said. "Our assumption at this point as that he is still trying to make his way down."

     

    Lewis does not have an emergency beacon or other GPS device that might help rescuers locate him, she added.

     

    "We have a dozen skilled climbers on the mountain, and at least 20 others providing other types of support," said search Incident Commander Glenn Kessler. "We're doing everything we can to find him and get him down safely."

     

    Go Pro Hero Cam

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Hero HD is great.

     

    Small. Light. Good batt life. Superb mounts. Inexpesive OEM accesories and extras. Killer footage quality. And you can buy it at REI or Backcountry.com and take advantage of their 100% Satisfaction Guarantee.

     

    720p @ 30fps is fine for everything I've done the files are a bit smaller. Even taken it SCUBA diving. Waterproof to 180'. I pushed it to 60'.

    What is a good beginner ice climb?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Cover your anchor screws in snow so they don't melt out in the sun.

     

    +1

     

    seracs are a great start J. good time and place to work on the skills in a pretty controlled environment. that and aren't distracted by the bitter cold of winter and can take more time to focus than try and stay warm.

    DSLRs and Rainier

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    2 batts in a D90 you'll be fine. i take my D3000 ice climbing and in single digit temps it lasts for several hundred shots on a charge over several days. same with a winter climb up Whitney.

     

    also i never temp matched mine. just stow and go, point and shoot!

     

    be sure to post a TR with some of the pics.

     

    T

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