t_rutl

how's the quality on their packs?

if you get to the ranger station early enough (around opening which is at 7 on the weekends) you should have NO prob getting a permit. if you camp at sahale arm you can do sahale, boston and the sw slope of buckner camp at eldorado or klawatti col and you can do eldo's east ridge, one of the ridge scrambles on klawatti and austera if you bail on that area there's always baker, shuksan or the twins

"Average minimum weight specification is based on tent, rainfly and poles only" !!

nada...haven't been able to mount up on Klawatti yet but would love too...thinking a ski trip up there this coming winter/spring...last year was really late season and this year it was an afterthought...didnt have the time to take one of the longer ridge routes up plus no helmets...rock fall was evident and would rather not have my skull split!

i like my exposure 50 as well. the only gripe is that the frame comes up off the shoulders a bit making a pain with a helmet. they replaced it with their Varient Series but i much prefer the exposures! Jim - I dig the BD Quantums but the M/L frame is still too short for me or I would be rocking one. Even though it is discontinued if you can find an Exposure 66 i think it'd be worth looking at. they haul a load like nobody's biz, technically inclined and are quite light, inexpensive packs.

Baker is an option any time of the year. The later it gets the trickier it gets. With how warm our summer has been and the lower than average snow pack the glaciers are likely to be very broken up with quite a bit of glacial ice exposed. Exposed route finding and hard ice would make for an exciting time out. Should we get an "Indian Summer" overall condtions shouuld be fantastic as far as weather goes. That and the road up to Coleman/Demming should be open if you want to access the North Side. Other options: Shuksan, Eldorado, Adams, Sahale/Boston, Dragontail/Colchuck (have to get in the lottery for permits). If you're into technical rock those abound even more.

16's are a great all-arounder...mix in a 22 for a bomber belay and/or v-threads and you'll be solid...my pref would be the BD's

depending on how long it takes you up the pyramid 10-12 hrs would be at an ok pace...a good friend and her hubby did in under 8 in late late season form...i think early sept...but they were hoofing it and in great shape the Sulfide should still be pretty tame good luck!

Hubba HP is 2lbs 9oz...freestanding double wall...redesigned and lighter than the full mesh Hubba! the vestibule does offer enough room for storage and cooking...i really like the tent and its big bro

nice route after a year long sabatical!

gad the easton looks like checking out at wal*mart... well done on the boulder tho

Trip: Eldorado Peak - East Ridge Date: 7/19/2009 Trip Report: With a decent forecast trucked up to Eldo to get out and play. Also attempted Klawatti but the moat's got things busted on the south and didn’t have the time to make a long rock ascent. Left the car Sat morn about 10:15 and were at camp on the ridge by 3:30 under blue skies found a bivy and set up shot in about 30 and decided to hit the summit. Just as we departed the "partly cloudy" in the forecast became whiteout but we trekked up anyway. Waited about 30 or so for a hopeful clearing but not getting one headed back. Met a cool party of 3 heading for Dorado Needle who also ran up Eldo in the clouds. Back at camp a couple of nice rangers swung by checking permits. After some chatting and dinner it was bedtime around 10. Up at 5:30 with clear skies again. After breakfast hoofed it across the Inspiration toward Klawatti. Ascended the steep snow on the south face as the 'schrund looked like it would go. After a couple hundred vert feet up got a good angle on the bridge and it was a no go and the moat was 15 across. Bummer... Well still having plenty of time and feeling good headed back under the scorching sun...melted water and hit Eldorado again under blue bird skies. Roomie had never been up before so glad he got to experience the aesthetic finish to a beautiful peak. Basked for a bit then headed out and into Marblemount for a giant buffalo cheese burger. Bivy Site Summit Whiteout Day Two Morning Glory Eldo form Klawatti Killer Summit Steps Aesthetic Second Time Up Still one of the best views in the Cascades Camp Boredom All in all everything is status quo up there. Bivy sites on the rock under the east ridge are plenty comfy and shielded. Good crampon conditions in the AM. Not needed by 9 or so. Killer steps up the summit. Both glaciers are quite tame. Running H2O at the base of Roush. Gear Notes: glacier gear, ice axe, crampons, pickets, iPod and SUNSCREEN Approach Notes: Snow starts above the boulder fields from hell just before crossing over to Roush. Solid boot pack.

MSR Hubba HP under 3 lbs with waterproof fly and vestibule http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/tents/fast-and-light-tents/hubba-hp/product

pm'd

yeah you can pull it off just fine for most 3 season snow...wont be the warmest thing but i've loned mine up trips on Baker and Eldo...one in Aug the other in Sept and there were no real complaints

www.backcountryoutlet.com pretty good sale right now us coupon code 4E2-1-QMDMQ that will max the discount to 50% off retail prices...might help you peice together somethings...their selection is pretty good other than that craigslist and ebay for used gear

+1

30ft is kosher for your cascade travels...maybe a shy longer for rainier with some of those gapers...i do prefer coils on the ends for a canadian drop loop should a rescue be called for

for real? you crazy sob's amaze me every time...

get a hydration bladder with a lock on the bite vavle so you can keep it in the tent without at worry of putting pressue on it and soaking things...Platypus's are nice but prefer the MSR or Camlebak...larger opening is easier to fill and clean plus you can lock the bite valve

The attacker sort of reminds me of the kid from Superbad... McLovin!!

hellz yeah! where did your approx line top out? did you guys continue right or swing left to crest onto the plateau? glad to hear that route will still go.

I agree...Sahale would be a great choice for a first timer...I had never been but the Sahale Arm/Glacier route had a good rep for that...took a good buddy out who had never worn a pack before and he loved it and managed quite easily...Eldo would also be a fun one in August...Shuksan might be a bit more of an undertaking but good nonetheless anyway you go though enjoy!! what? you mean like this?? but i'll second that...the Easton is a fun one into August

thanks guys! it was a helluva trip out...i was definately feeling the day before but Matt's bionic Ouray calves kept us on pace for a great outing!!! few more pics: camp with alpenglow approaching the crux topping out the vert ice on the first pitch picks in for pitch #2 last steep bit before the plateau sweet waterfall on Heliotrope

a. crampons and axes are your call. most routes that cross snow slopes can be done without the 'pons but it can be a gamble where you may wish you really had them. CAMP and several others make a lightweight aluminium crampon that may be worth investing in. if you are very confident in your self arresting abilities with a trekking pole you can get away w/o an axe but it would have to be a personal choice...i would reccomend one tho...if even an ultra-light version (CAMP Corsica, ect). August's freezing level can hover around 8-9 thousand feet or shoot to 14 thousand. "generally" speaking you'll have a crust but not ice under 10k but that could change at a moments notice. as far as boots go...if ya got a stiff enough sole you could pull off crampons. Five Ten makes their Exum Guide Shoe which is money for what you're talking about. b. quite serious. would be a long day but you could hit Colchuck and Dragontail in one push...prob 12-14+ hrs??? mosquitos could be bad enough to eat you alive so come prepared!! c. others could comment better d. lots of good folks out here...maybe via this board or craigslist you could arrange a p/u?? plenty of places to rent cars hope you enjoy your trip out!!!