obwan

It's really to bad that this had to happen - the mentor/instructor or someone a bit more experienced should have been in charge and checked all the gear. Youngsters climbing assume that everything is a go. God Bless.

I'm back. "Where are you going? Your pack looks too big for a day hike..." This is amazing! I remember the same speech in the early nineties - what is going on? De-ja-vu. It's kinda like the Border questions - answer where and why simply, with the smallest of detail, as to not open another issue. Duh! My double rack (day pack) weighs over 30 lbs. I just awoke from my slumber and just wanted to lighten this up a bit, sorry. I'll be bailing also from the blog.

Sol: Thanks for the time and effort, and excellent/informative write-up. We need a few level heads to continue on with this process, and it is appreciated. So stay cool, hang in there and hopefully I can go over it with a few biers and you guys when I make it to Leavenworth. But, please pay attention to AlpineMonkey's input. (wow - 6 pages) Bonjour, James

Save the rent dinero and buy some used ones at Second Ascent in Ballard.

Generally in the bag world - regular is for under 6ft and tall is for over 6ft. There is a little more to it than that, such as hip and shoulder girth - you would certainly be a large. Some of the various vendors have different criteria to get the temp rating, so lower temp bags would be a bit narrower and snugger than what would be comfortable to most people. It always helps to try on a bag that has specs close to the one you chose. The REI site has a category for 'specs' on each bag.

I haven't been climbing much in the last few years in The Icicle (healing and rehab), and have not realized that it has gotten this bad. It's to bad the masses discovered such an inspiring place - it almost sounds as bad as Vantage has gotten, in the late 80's and early 90's it was a heavily wooded area, and it took a lot of bushwhacking to find the good stuff. But that fire of several years back really opened the craigs and produced some more bouldering areas. Bummer!

You are right - May/June is possible, but unreliable. Goes to show you the Local's have an advantage to cherry pick the weather window for the right break. But it's important to not add to the risk when coming from afar and spending big bucks. True enough the trade routes get pretty busy by July and it becomes a cess pool like Everest - but it is truly an inspirational and even to some a spiritual mountain.

Get em' some good stiff/tight beach shoes at Big 5, inexpensive and they work for kids.

It sounds like we are re-arranging your whole trip - but MedicSandy has a good point, don't waste your time in the rat race of the Sea-Tac area. Google - 'Ashford, WA Lodging' for the whole thing. And it's only a 75 mile drive 1 1/2 hr. You may even be able to buy fuel or last minute supplies; if not you can stop at the Tacoma REI on the way as you head south on I-5, east on 516 to Parkland, and just a few miles to Hwy 7, then it's a direct shot into Ashford. Have a great trip!

Jake; PMI makes a nice dry half/twin (the best multiple use rope I've found) - it's the Verglas 8.1mm X 60M; at REI for $160 each.

Next one to do would be Ingalls Peak - a very good detailed TR, I'm sure most of us starting out have had those same issues. My old saying is " a good days climbing is when you go home with all of your toys and most of your hide"

All of the info stated here is right on, June is very sketchy on The Mountain - it's usually off&on monsoon storms. Over a 30year time frame, I've summited 3 out of 3 attempts, all in mid to end of July. Even our best local weathermen (both mountaineers) will state that our summer begins July 12th - so the best advice here is to change your plans, and it will help you achieve your goal. I measured success on 50% conditioning and 50% weather - the best information I have read is in Mike Gauthier's (previous climbing ranger) book on climbing Mount Rainier. Good Luck!

First, I'd like to congratulate you on your survival techniques and sticking with it. Next, a great trip report! This qualifies as a full epic climb - and I agree with most of the after thoughts, you can see that the "locals' have an advantage over visiting climbers. The weather and day-to-day conditions are the most difficult on The Mountain - even for the locals. Anyways- Good Job! LR is not a walk-up.

Great photos! Thanks for taking us there.

Nice trip report - you cheated the Wind Gods, and did a great job sneaking in between with the right window, Awesome, and congratulations! You are the envy of the many.

Good job guys - this qualifies as an epic adventure, good thing you all kept your head on straight. Congratulations!

Jason - you are correct, we probably need to let it go. It was also one of the best Mt. Rainier views.

Talk to Andy Fitz on this site - he's probably spent the most time in the Yakima/Tieton area.

This sounds bad - where/what is the legal stand for Matt P. And can AAC/WCC do anything with this situation, I guess it really is private property of Weyco. Jens is right, this would be a bummer loss to Washington climbing - being such a wet climate. I remember searching for this place in 89/90 and getting scooped by hunters. Weyco is slamming the wrong people. Basically, we're screwed because they don't give a crap.

Matt: You are right, Mclellan can be nasty in early season. One time I went up on a Memorial Day, and it turned into a full winter ascent.

Man - what a disaster, those that have a bee allergy can certainly die from it. Bummer.

I heard on the news that the avy victim has been found and will be recovered today, not sure when the trail will be open. It happened about three weeks ago, bummer for the family - but now, maybe there can be some closure. My condolences and sympathy.

The link just says the trail is closed. Has the body of the recent avalanche victim been recovered yet? Maybe try McClellan Butte trail - you'll hit some snow, no need to summit.

Darren - Thanks for the update, you can tell I haven't been up there in awhile.

Definitley a thumbs up! Nice folks and it's always appropriate to help out the locals - give them some business. Being a destination spot - it's hard to stay in business over there.