obwan

Stoppers/nuts/slings and biners are obviously no BD; but you all have covered an issue on Cams that maybe should be kicked around in the beginning - full racks can get expensive.

You are correct - that place can fool ya, if you let your guard down.

Overall, I support your efforts and hard work of many on this website - where would be without it, even some of the personalities make it happen (both negative and positive). I have worked with several decades of climbers, and the most important factor is "respect" - the whole idea is let's make it fun and a learning experience. It's the only way we'll survive. Go for it!

Hey There: LittleJohn is correct - I too have had shoulder problems, and Kirby is the man ( he fixes other's mistakes), but both Kirby and Arntz are the best in the NW. I saw Kirby and he had some guy in his office all the way from Anchorage - and he almost laughed when I told him I had a torn rotor cuff. He said, yeah right - I've got my waiting room full of brick layers and sheetrockers that need shoulder surgery. This may be a long story but my diagnosis is that you don't need an expert , but better to follow up and find out. So, to continue my "trip report" to Kirby - I said Doc C'mon, it hurts like hell and I can't sleep at night, and can't even put on a shirt or reach for my wallet - not to mention I'm not able to belay. I told him I even taped my arm to my side with duct tape at night, as I turned around sleeping , the morning was hell - and insisted he take an Xray. Which he did and laughed again saying there was no tear - and I'm wining about it hurts like hell. He was even able to detect a previous "dislocation" and laughed again when I told him that was done 50 years ago in H.S. Gymnastics on the rings. And he says - I know your kind - what ever it was that caused the injury has healed, and by keeping it calm and resting - the shoulder has lost it's range of motion and built up scar tissue. I said, oh yeah - probably that Mtn bike wreck months ago and then I babied it. His diagnosis was, I had a classic "frozen shoulder", now I'm thinking this guy doesn't know Jack Shit - he said I can send you to a P.T. but the once a week stuff isn't the way to go. He sent me home with a couple of "door" stretches and said I needed to be consistent 2-3 times a day for a while - I said, how long - and he said some winers take six months, but if I was consistent and aggressive - maybe 4-6 months. I went home in great pain and called his office twice for pain killers, and he kept saying keep up the good effort. Basically, I knocked it out in 3 months and now don't even remember the pain. You can Google the "frozen shoulder" issue - I basically did two stretches. Reach to the top of door or sill and finger cling, like rock climbing and hold for awhile. And standing between the door with both hands on the door jam, lean inward. This long trip report is no bull - but it worked, he doesn't operate unless he has to. In fact my son, also had a bike accident and took the full force in a downhill crash taking out a Chevy Blazer with his shoulder - now that one was a torn rotator cuff, Kirby had to operate on and with great results. So, I wish you luck and as LittleJohn said, it is probably not requiring surgery or even torn if you are not losing sleep over it . Good Luck! p.s. This scenario will save you a bunch of dinero.

Now you are talking about a great descent - cool!

I have three grades that I use - sketchy, dicey, and heinous. I'm not sure where Scary fits in - but we'll give you the FA, as it was not a gimmee. Glad to see you are alive for the TR. I have lived here my whole life, and only rarely see the right conditions and temps that form ice at exit 38, such as "here today, gone tomorrow". Maybe some dinosaurs older than I can confirm.

It's a great descent on the Mtn Bike except for the oncoming cars. On a nice day, be sure to bring a camera - one of the best northside views of Rainier, as it is right in your face.

Hell - Snoq. Pass will be cold enough this weekend, as we get a few days of another cold snap.

Alex- You are right about it being about 20 years, I remember when you came out from the East Coast - and got me stoked about Waterfall Ice. Probably global warming, Alaska is in a melt down. Now you know why I delayed my entry into this aspect of climbing, with the Washington Ice being only a few days per season, and the investment in seasonal gear. Thanks again for your work on the book - good job! At this point in the season, you are correct - maybe they can get an update from local ice guru, Monty Piton. Otherwise, it's head to the Issaquah SR 900 cliff to scratch and claw.

https://nwfootankle.com/foot-health/drill/3-problems/34-sesamoiditis

If you need to get out of the Park completely, the drive into Palm Springs is only about 45minutes. The Air Museum, or Patton Tank museum may not be interesting to a six yr old, but the Tram to San Jacinto is cool. I also remember a water park in PS - if it's still there, that had a rock climb TR wall. There are some cool hikes in JT Park to gold mines, but again may be boring - the drive up to Keys View is ok, but may not show much of the Fault. I've driven up to several hundred feet of it down in the valley near the town of Desert Hot Springs.

Rafael: Great info - I second all of it!

Jens - You really nailed it, good climbing. And a great write-up, you should send in to R&I!

OK Kids - anyone game? Check out Snoqualmie Falls! Nice stoke. I'm actually laid up with a severe groin pull (bummer). This is your Westside Ice climbing season (3 days) - go for it! I'm sure Franklin Falls is in if Snoqualmie Falls is Fat - Google for "Snoqualmie Falls Frozen" for some cool images, or watch www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahSdi5Age88 Do I dare even mention Static Point or God Forbid " Infinite Bliss". Enjoy, Comrades!

Check out Amazon.com - search books, type in, "Washington Scramble Hikes" to see the following: 1. Washington Scrambles 2. 75 Scrambles in Washington 3. Falcon Guide on Washington Scrambles & Summits.

Parking at the school has worked for me the last couple times I was there - but you are right parking is limited and it was midweek.

They probably follow this website like the dude up at Static Point in the Monroe area (and enjoy the publicity), not much helps - even police reports. Maybe we could hire a pair of guys to stand guard with shotguns, pretending to be backwoods hunters ( notice I said pair - need a witness with camera). The notion of breaking all the windows when the train passes is probably correct - and then go through as many as you can. F---ing Dirt Bags. That sucks.

Hello Nick: Welcome to the Seattle area - your resume is pretty awesome and probably overkill for the Washington Cascades, although there is some good alpine climbing here. The reason you have only talked with a few regarding our "ice" availability is because it is very elusive and tentative here in Washington (It's one of those here today, gone tomorrow scenarios). Most of the good ice climbing is in British Columbia 5-16 hours drive from here, or Montana and Idaho. I'm not trying to disillusion you - maybe check out the books "Washington Ice" and "West Coast Ice", and you'll see what I'm saying. I'm actually very envious of your time spent in the Alaska Range - nice job! Bon Jour,

I agree with Pete_H and sprocket, the Methow area is a pretty neat place for Mtn Biking, Trails and Winter events with the best XC ski trail system in the lower 48. Not much in a Down Hill ski area - but there is a small bush league ski park at Loup Loup Pass, about 30 minute drive from Winthrop - the main tourist town. Fifteen minutes from Winthrop is Mazama - the closest thing to a small Mtn Village, and very close to The North Cascades. Try www.mvsta.com for all the local trail systems, or Google for websites at Sun Mountain or Winthrop, WA. If the Mt.Baker ski area looks close on the map - it is NOT in the Winter as HWY 20 is closed.

Two places come to mind that meet your need to be 30 minutes to a ski area, cheap to moderate rent and close to the back country are Cle Elum and Enumclaw (Snoqualmie Pass and Crystal Mtn/Rainier). Although, I don't see these as a "small mountain town" as you know them in Colorado. Your move would also need to be based on employment if needed - these towns are scarce on employment opportunities, depends what you are into.

I agree - " Last rays of light" is an incredible photo! And I like the gps track you overlaid on the route, very nice trip report. Thanks!

(UPDATE): Here is a rough translation of the final part of my conversation with the group leader - "The marking chalk was a mistake. We didn't think it through. The plan was to clean it up the same day but we postponed it to the weekend. Even though the paint has been partially cleaned off, we will return this weekend to see if we can clean up anything else and make sure everything is in order. Once again, we apologize for the mistake and we will work to avoid repeating it in the future". Here's a another rough translation: Spasibo za ponimaniye nashey ozabochennosti dlya otkrytom vozdukhe. I've probably had to much vodka. Cheers! p.s. For speed climbing - try the Marymoor Rock Spire in Redmond, near the Velodrome. No chalk paint please - just tape!

Thanks to SVM for signing in, and getting the word out to maybe those involved. Thanks also to JBP & Don for doing the new route work and cleaning up the rock. Maybe ACE has some non-toxic cleaner to make it easier. And thanks to the assholes for not spraying the name of each route and grade on rocks all over the Icicle. Oops, now I'm giving copy cats an idea.

Unbelievable! And I thought 'chalk' was bad. I've mentioned before that I've not been to Icicle Creek for a while - and I may need to go over and kick some ass.

The closest crag is the one Alex mentioned above on SR 900 toward Renton about 2 1/2 mi from I-90. A few good full rope length routes with TR chains. Good for endurance training, and not as boring as the plywood at home.