obwan

Your best bet would be to get a copy of Dan A. Nelson's book 2nd edition on "Snowshoe Routes in Washington" at Amazon or REI, (for a nominal cash outlay), the information that he provides is invaluable. He's done a major amount of research, and covers the best areas - including North Cascades and Alpine Lakes. His longest routes are maybe 2-3 days - the highest elevations may last until April, he calls them best with some fresh snow Dec - March. Which brings up the backcountry issues of avalanche, navigation and able to haul in enough gear, food and dry clothes - a sled helps in the longer treks. I'm not sure what your level of experience is in these issues - but generally speaking, I've encountered severe temps in the 0-10 degree range and the fun trip becomes an epic survival adventure, as these areas are the most rugged in the Northwest - but also the most beautiful. Have fun, be safe and good luck.

If conditions are cold - The Rambles is your best bet. But I believe there is a warming trend on the way.

Depends on which direction you came from - but I'll give you some help, from Lillooet travel sw on hwy 99 about 17 miles , maybe 30 minutes (it's actually about 2hrs from Whistler) - but you'd know that much already being there. You'll see a bunch of cars parked in a small area next to the hwy, just on the 'left side' - across from the foot bridge. I mean this place is like the "Exit 38" of I-90, you should see a line up. Then the approach heads straight up the hill from the car - hiking varies depending on if you do Rambles Left, right or center. It's about 150-300 meteres up from the hwy (look way up)- it's not one of those 'jump out of the car and belay', it's a ways up off the road. Almost sounds to vague, like Beckey - but that's all you do, hike straight up. I'm sure the Canuck's on this site have a more defined approach or photos. You can get some photos on-line; just Google Rambles Ice.

Glacier Peak 10,541ft.

Little Tahoma Peak 11,138 ft.

You could probably even Google some websites, and I also find useful data on the UW and NWAC sometimes. Maybe you'd have to contact them for historical data - I'm always able to get a few days forecast with altitudes,wind and temps; being a local helps. Check these links: www.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html www.nwac.us/weatherdata/paradise/now/

I have not checked any wind records - but from personal experience, March is one of the windiest. Then add the ability of Rainier to make it's own wind - which will kick your ass!

Score!

I'll pass on my similar first trip report to Skaha in the early 90's. We were looking for the climber's bivy area on Crown Land, and ended up on the local Tribal Reservation.

This advice has been addressed before on this site - maybe surf around a bit. But the short version is to get a copy of "Freedom of the Hills", and a good buddy - and go for it. A lot of self-taught climbers on this site are still alive.

I second that!

I agree - most hoses freeze as well as the mouth piece. I've used Hot Gatorade in a thermos or Nalgene hard liter. The guides on Rainier won't even allow bladders or hoses even in the summer due to various failures . Someday I'll go into the story about waking up at 2am for my Rainier assault and having a couple quarts of Gatorade soaking my tent, pack and parka. duh.

As mentioned, there's some threads on this site that have come up with some trad favorites. There is also some good cracks at Tieton in the 5.7/8 range- and may be a bit drier (until it gets to cold). Also check into Mt.Erie - I haven't been up there since the new guide has been out, but usually has some good practice areas (sometimes has a good weather window). Ditto on Great Northern Slab.

Pretty wet of course this time of year. For a few cracks closer to Seattle, pretty short and not that great - try Chain Saw Wall at Exit 38 (Crack one with me 5.7). Also at Exit 32 (Lil' Si) is a short crack/arête on Repo I - First Things First 5.6 - not much on the West Side. There is a dirty crack on the left side of the SR 900 Rock near Issaquah, probably 5.6, also TR.

Great Photos!!

Thanks for doing the look-see. Welcome to the elusive Washington Ice - maybe go back in January, it has to be friggin' cold for awhile.

You need to see if Monty Piton (Lebenworth Ice Guru) knows anything that's current in the Icicle Canyon.

bullshit. I second that! eyesonice - To answer your original question, go to Mt. Baker.

Yeah - definitely way out of the way. It depends a lot on what/where you'll be working, mode of transportation - traffic and commute times are at their extreme worse in King County. Depending also on social life - most outlying areas don't qualify as any type of climbing community. As mentioned though, the Issaquah area is on the I-90 corridor, and easy access to the Pass for outdoor endeavors - again depends what you want to get done.

I'm with Alex - it is just not cold enough yet for the westside, although some places are coming in a bit sketchy though. Go east young grasshopper. I was just up at Rainier and Narada Falls at 4800ft is forming, but not real solid. Next week I may head up to the northside falls at the Carbon River entrance.

Unfortunately, mistakes are sometimes not to forgiving in rock climbing - I feel bad for those all involved, it's a helpless feeling to watch. RIP Tvash - you are right about the three times rule. I've done it myself when I let my guard down. The first error will usually get you by; the second error is when issues start compounding, and Maybe will get you by - And if not caught, it progresses to a third error; which is when the s--- hits the fan. That's why I call it the "3 strikes and your out rule", and can be very subtle. Sorry for the climber and family.

Explorer - I actually think you have gotten some fun and interesting advice so far. But you really need to contact FS, BLM, USGS and see who's in charge of that area ( especially if you are already involved with the FS) - also chat with some Oregon Mountaineer's that understand the local rules regarding new trails forming in a wilderness area, as well as the NO bolts issue. Others on this site have been down that path before and rather than a hero, you will end up a bum if you don't follow such bureaucracy rules. If you have made a cool discovery in an unknown area, then good for you and good luck.

Layton - now that's funny!

G-spotter, I liked your idea about Google Earth better! Being a newbie - he might not know about getting flamed on this site, not that we're climbing snobs or anything like that. Sorry, no bolts Pal.

Another troll for hidden treasure. I actually know Jack Shit, we together found the Renton Granite - so ve vill find it! Seriously - you'll have to go to the USGS folks, or you'll be prosecuted for putting in a new unauthorized trail system. Maybe it is the last secret.