prussik1

Visits to wild places are often deeply rewarding. These adventures also entail risks that can occasionally prove life threatening--even for the most experienced outdoors people. Join us for a safety talk, focusing on PLB (Personal Locator Beacon), MLU (Mt. Hood Mountain Locator Unit) and Avalanche Transceivers. When: December 08, 2010 19:00-20:30 Where: Portland REI, 1405 NW Johnson, 97209 Register for this free clinic: http://www.rei.com/event/13195/session/16257

The weather and snow conditions of any backcountry adventure can change drastically in a matter of minutes. Presented by Portland Mountain Rescue (PMR), join us for this informative presentation to help you stay safe in winter conditions. PMR is a volunteer group dedicated to saving lives through rescue and mountain safety education. When: Wednesday, November 10 at 7 p.m. Where: Portland REI: 1405 NW Johnson St., Portland, OR 97209 Please register online for this free clinic at www.rei.com/event/13222/session/16263

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.35311031446326&lon=-121.69830322265625&site=pqr&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en http://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/map/

CT 12 Q1 Sudden Release below Hogsback, Slope 32 degrees, SE aspect, 70cm down. Go to Smith or go surf!

I have climbed hood a handful of times solo. Know the conditions, know the route, be prepared for a winter climb and to be self sufficient for several days (including the tools/knowledge to navigate in a whiteout and shelter building), and have a backup plan (which would include, among other things, a reporting party to dial 911 if you are overdue.

CT 12 Q1 Sudden Release below Hogsback, Slope 32 degrees, SE aspect, 70cm down

Don't want to step on your toes, man, but that was the same thinking as Kelly James, Brian Hall and Jerry Cooke had when they came out. Cheers!

Portland Mountain Rescue utilizes snowcat transportation while on missions when they are available and when it is appropriate. The climbers who you saw, while maybe members of PMR, were on a recreational climb, unaffiliated with any official PMR activities. Any person who so desires may hire a snowcat from Timberline for whatever fee they charge. PMR members are expected to maintain a high standard of physical fitness, climbing skills, and knowledge of route and conditions.

nice meeting you all on hogsback! take care!

Skinned up South Side on Saturday to Hot Rocks in middle of the crater. Experienced 5-10cm powder on top of variable ice crusts and small bollards above Palmer Lift. At times, bollards were exposed making it a challenging skin in some areas, and a very controlled, cautious ski down. A quick snowpack analysis of an approximate 40 degree south facing slope at 10,300 yielded a Q2-3 CT 28 at 7-10cm. However, evidence of a 10-15 cm crown fracture on West Crater Rim was present, making other aspects suspect. Reporting parties on the mountain indicated knee to waist high post-hole conditions through the pearly gates, as well as a 15-25 foot mixed water ice and rime pitch on this route. Christopher

Portland Mountain Rescue (www.pmru.org) has a great website (click on safety education) that has a lot of useful links and information about climbing Mt. Hood. christopher

Bilbob, you and i have chatted about sisters in the winter... christopher

...and don't forget to do a test profile once you are on the reid, as an avalanche can really ruin your day! christopher

We did some test profiles on the east aspect of hogsback, CT 22s/23s Q2/3 at about 60cm. christopher

I think I passed you guys on my way down from the summit as you were the only other party I saw using a rope that high. Great pics!

We took both. You can get white gas in mendoza at any of the climbing shops (the one i have been to is one block east, i think, of plaza independencia) and you can get canisters there as well. We used white gas stoves mainly, with our canister stoves as our backups. many of the guided groups were using canisters to be able to cook inside tents at camp 1 and 2 on the plaza argentina side this year. when i climbed the normal route 4 years ago, it was my whisperlite international all the way... good luck! christopher P.s. when we were at camp 2 on the false polish, there is a frozen lake that has a hole in it for a water source, just had to take the axe over and chop it big enough each day, some days not at all. but we felt that water needed to be treated, brough both iodine and chlorine, plus the boiling.

dug the first one on the reid on climber's right of first chutes, then below the hour glass

The wind was totally dead on the Hogsback, didn't notice any wind until I stopped below the Palmer, then it picked up quite noticably. The skiing down was pretty good, lots of wind slab styrofoam snow. Palmer and below was ice rounds on the groomers.

The Forest Service is getting a lot better at keeping them stocked this year. If there aren't any, you can improvise for sure. I've even used a Les Schwab envelope from my glovebox.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold's Date: 2/18/2010 Trip Report: Went over Illumination Saddle yesterday to attempt Leuthold's. Thermal inversion is now in effect, so upper mountain warmer than lower mountain. Wind died at around 6:00 a.m. Post holing to calves, plenty of snow at high elevations. Dug test profilesd before climbing, CT 11 and 12, Q 2 (although very close to a 1) at 25cm. Decided that the consequences were not what I wanted, so went back over to south side route. The traverse was challenging until over on south side route, saw nice boot pack. Super warm on Hogsback, about 55 F. Gear Notes: shovel, saw, AT setup, 2 pickets, 4 screws, rope, axe, extra tool, beacon

You will want to legibly fill out a climbing permit found at the climber's register in the day lodge of Timberline, and then check out there after your climb as well. Permits are free. Mt. Hood has some fantastic, challenging routes, and at times, extremely nasty weather. Go prepared to be self sufficient for several days, and never underestimate any mountain. I would also highly encourage you to rent an MLU (Mountain Locator Unit) which only works on Mt. Hood, or bring your own PLB denoting that on your climber's registration form.

Thursday, January 28 6 p.m., Portland State University Tickets available at the SMSU Box Office Also available through Ticket Master Students and Seniors (62 +) $7 in advance $10 day of show Faculty, Staff and Public $10 in advance $12 day of show Children 8 and under are free Proceeds to go to Portland State University Outdoor Club and Portland Mountain Rescue

Hi all, Leaving in a month, have a list of muleteers, but if anyone has had a memorable (good or bad) experience/recomendation/condemnation, it would be greatly appreciated. Plan is to climb Polish Glacier variation.

The Wallowa Avalanche Center is a not-for-profit organization for public benefit in Northeast Oregon. All officers, board members, advisors and observers are unpaid volunteers. The mission is to provide winter recreational users in the Wallowa Mountains with information and education to assist in making responsible, appropriate and safe travel decisions in the winter backcountry while managing avalanche hazard. Please visit the website at: www.wallowaavalanchecenter.org The goals for the coming winter are: Establish an observer network; install new weather instrumentation; provide a web-based source of weather and snowpack information; post a weekly summary; host an online forum for backcountry users to exchange information and observations; sponsor or provide links to avalanche education opportunities. Please consider donating to / or sponsoring the Wallowa Avalanche Center. Online donations are accepted through our website. Personal checks may be mailed to: Wallowa Avalanche Center PO Box 324 Joseph, OR 97846

The Wallowa Avalanche Center is a not-for-profit organization for public benefit in Northeast Oregon. All officers, board members, advisors and observers are unpaid volunteers. The mission is to provide winter recreational users in the Wallowa Mountains with information and education to assist in making responsible, appropriate and safe travel decisions in the winter backcountry while managing avalanche hazard. Please visit the website at: www.wallowaavalanchecenter.org The goals for the coming winter are: Establish an observer network; install new weather instrumentation; provide a web-based source of weather and snowpack information; post a weekly summary; host an online forum for backcountry users to exchange information and observations; sponsor or provide links to avalanche education opportunities. Please consider donating to / or sponsoring the Wallowa Avalanche Center. Online donations are accepted through our website. Personal checks may be mailed to: Wallowa Avalanche Center PO Box 324 Joseph, OR 97846