Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by jstluise

  1. We're looking to climb something this coming weekend and Stuart is on our list. We've never climbed it before and I have looked into the Sherpa Glacier route in the past, but I don't know the condition of the route this time of year. How is the Sherpa Glacier route looking right now? If it still is climbable, is there anything we should look out for? If not, we'll look for another mountain; seems like all the other routes on Stuart are for you rock climbers
  2. Stuart Conditions - Sherpa Glacier

    Thanks for the info. I think we'll give it a shot and see what happens. It'll be nice just to get up close to Stuart since I've never been. IF we manage to summit, we do have the option of descending via Sherpa Pass (after reading the recent thread about this). This depends on the condition of the Sherpa Glacier. My guess is that Sherpa Pass will be better to descend. I was originally thinking of camping in the basin below the Sherpa Glacier, since we would be heading out of Seattle Friday afternoon. But, because of the possibility of descending the Sherpa Pass we would have to carry everything to avoid backtracking to get our stuff in the basin (even though it would only be a couple miles extra). Now I am thinking we just crash in the parking lot and leave real early Sat morning, fast and light. Thoughts? Not sure on the time from car to summit, but we can expect around 6 hours from summit to car (via Sherpa Pass) based on the other posting.
  3. Pair of sunglasses found at the climbing wall. Give me a description of the glasses so I can get them back to you.
  4. Trip: Mt Rainer - Gib Ledges Date: 6/17/2011 Trip Report: After receiving some great beta on the route, the two of us were excited to get up there and try something new. We left Paradise at around noon on Thursday (6/16), with plans to climb the next morning. The weather was excellent on both days with little to no wind. After talking to the climbing ranger, we confirmed the route was in excellent condition. He suggested climbing the ridge all the way up to the Beehive before dropping onto the Cowlitz, due to a crevasse opening up below. You could see tracks from climbers staying on the Cowlitz the entire way to the ledges, but he just found it easier to climb the ridge. We followed his advice. With only 4 hours of sleep we were out of Muir just before 2am. There were only two other climbers on the route; they camped at the Beehive so they got a good head start on us. I think they were at the entrance to the ledges by the time we hit the Beehive. After passing the Beehive, we had a short rappel off the ridge onto the glacier. Once to the entrance to the ledges, navigating the ledges were pretty straightforward. We soloed the route up to the rib. We roped up at the rib just in case we wanted to do a running belay on the last part of the ledges, but the snow conditions were great and we were comfortable so we cruised up to the top of the chute. We made it from Muir to the top of Gib rock (12,700') in just under 4.5 hours. From there, we followed the ranger's advice and climbed straight up to join up with the DC route. We hooked up with the DC route at around 13,700'. The route up the ledges definitely wiped us out. The time from Muir to the summit was around 8.5 hours. We got some pictures and took a short break on the crater rim, then we took off down the DC route. We were beat and it took us a long 5 hours back to Muir. Oh, and then another 2 hours back to Paradise! Long day! All in all, it was a great climb and we couldn't ask for better weather. It was nice to try something new and get on the route while it is still in good shape. I think the route still has a lot of life left in it. Photos: A bit cloudy going up to Muir: Above the clouds: A view of Gib Rock and the route: Gib Rock: Looking up the Cowlitz at the entrance to the ledges: Sun going down over the ridge. You can see the two climbers heading up to the Beehive (on the ridge to the lower right of the sun): We had a visitor at Muir: Finally on the summit: Steamin': Adams, Hood, and Shasta Jefferson: Saint Helens: Myself on the summit...er...upside down: Nice day!: Ingraham Flats and Camp Muir from the top of DC: Ingraham Flats: Little T: Camp Muir from Cathedral Gap: Here is some GPS data (ascent in green, descent in red): Gear Notes: We carried our standard glacier gear. We had 3 pickets, two screws, and some longer pieces of webbing in case of any belaying on the ledges.
  5. [TR] Mt Rainer - Gib Ledges 6/17/2011

    My D90 came with the 18-105mm, as well as the 70-300mm, which I haven't used a whole lot yet. I just got a killer deal on the package so I figured what the heck. I looked around quite a bit for a good setup, especially for mountaineering. Seemed like the chest harness deal worked well for people. Another system that was recommended to me: http://cottoncarrier.com/ Looks pretty cool, though I don't like that the camera is exposed all the time. Maybe in a hiking situation where falls are unlikely, but I wouldn't be comfortable using it on the side of a mountain. And, no weather protection.
  6. [TR] Mt Rainer - Gib Ledges 6/17/2011

    Thanks! I took along one lens: 18-105mm. The lens is very versatile. This is my first dSLR and I am VERY happy with it. I am packing it with the Lowepro Topload Zoom 50 holster (perfect fit and it allows for me to keep the lens hood on) bag with the Lowepro chest harness. Wasn't quite sure how it would work out carrying it on my chest (especially mountaineering) but it worked great! I could hardly notice it and had no trouble seeing my feet...even on the descent. Only difficulty I ran into was messing with my harness, but I managed. Best of all, I had quick access to it for fast shots
  7. [TR] Mt Rainer - Gib Ledges 6/17/2011

    I'm glad everyone liked the pics! Hauling the extra weight of my D90 proved to be well worth it! d, glad to hear you got another summit in. We're planning on hitting it again later this season. We have some other peaks we want to cross off our list first. The Muir fox was very active while we were up there...he even woke up at 1:30am to see us off and scrounge around for some leftovers. The headstand idea came about from my high school drafting teacher. There was a picture of him in the local newspaper headstanding the summit that I thought was pretty cool...I'll have to dig out the article and scan it. This was the first time we were on top where we had headstand conditions PS. It took me numerous tries to muscle my tired legs up over my head to complete the move...I was literally laughing to myself upside down because I didn't realize it would be that hard to do a friggin headstand
  8. [TR] Mt Rainer - Gib Ledges 6/17/2011

    You're right! Thanks! I figured Shasta was a little too far away to see.
  9. [TR] Mt Rainer - Gib Ledges 6/17/2011

    Yeah, we were right up against the rock, as high as possible all the way to the chute. There were some patches of ice and crusty snow, but most of the snow made for easy foot placements. The sketchiest part was dealing with the rock/ice with crampons...I think it was right around the rib but I don't remember exactly. d, after you exited the chute did you ascend straight up, similar to our route to join up with the DC route? Or did you go climber's left? The ranger told us to the way we did because even though going left looked good from below, it was broken up pretty good. I didn't know how the route looked back when you climbed. For our first climb of the season, I thought we were in pretty good shape (physically), but definitely could be better. I'm sure the lack of sleep didn't help. PS. Whoever skis the Gib Chute is insane! Looking down that thing...I couldn't even imagine
  10. [TR] Little Tahoma - 6/9/2011

    Looks like an awesome day! Hoping to get up there soon! Excellent pictures, Tim. What camera are you shooting with?
  11. My climbing partner and I are planning a climb next week (Thurs 6-16 thru Sat). We were going to just go up the DC like usual, but I saw that the Gib Ledges route is still in good shape (as of 6/1). IF the route is still okay by next week, we want to give it a go. This will be the first time on the route, so any advice would be great! Besides being quick through the ledges I couldn't find anything else. Also, how about staying at the beehive? Good idea? This will be the earliest we've been up on the mountain. Usually we hit it mid/late summer. Especially with the current conditions it is more like winter. What additional gear (besides warmer clothing) is recommended? I assume we should both be carrying avy gear (shovels/beacons)? Thanks for the info. I hope the route stays okay...I guess I'll know more by this weekend. We'll assess the route when we get up there. There is always DC, but it would be nice to change it up a bit.
  12. Looks like the route is still in good shape and should be next week (report yesterday on blog). Here is the picture they posted. Can someone tell me where this picture was taken from? It looks to be somewhere at the beginning of the ledges...you can see footprints on the right of the screen.
  13. Excellent beta! Thanks guys! We might consider a running belay. It would be the first time we have done it. All the other times on the DC and Emmons any protection was unnecessary. I guess we'll see how it looks when we get up there. From the looks of the pictures, this looks like the correct route on the balcony:
  14. Great! Thanks for the info. After reading some trip reports it seems navigating the ledges without protection is common. Good idea about camping at Muir! I probably wouldn't even have realized that we'd have to climb back up to the beehive until until we returned from DC...
  15. I must have left my trekking poles leaning up against the rig and took off without putting them inside. REI Traverse Trekking Poles (blue) Saturday 2-26-11: Mowich Lake entrance to MRNP, the parking lot by the Paul Peak Trail. There were a bunch of cars there when we left, so I am sure someone picked them up. Here is a shot in the dark that someone on here found them. Thanks!
  16. Hey everyone, I have a pair of Men's New Balance 1225 running shoes, size 10.5 (44.5). The width is D (normal). Brand new...didn't fit me and I waited too long to return them. Retail for $140...asking $100 OBO! Located in Seattle's U District. Same shoe here: http://www.onlineshoes.com/mens-new-balance-mr1225st-white-blue-p_id151989 Send me a message if you are interested.
  17. Everything is new, still in original packaging. I bought this setup for a family member and they decided they didn't want them this year. I'd rather sell them locally to avoid return shipping costs. Just looking to get back what I put into them. MSR Denali Evo ASCENT snowshoes (BLACK): retail for $199.95 Selling for $180. http://cascadedesigns.com/MSR/Snowshoes/Steep-And-Challenging/Denali-Evo-Ascent/product MSR Snow Tote...carries snowshoes, tails, and poles: retail for $29.95 Selling for $25. http://cascadedesigns.com/msr/snowshoes/snowshoe-accessories/snow-tote/product Located in Seattle. Please PM me if you are interested.
  18. I know it's late notice but I thought this was worth a shot. We're heading down to Climb Adams, and wanted to squeeze St.Helens in if we can get some passes. 2 Passes Friday 9/18 OR Sunday 9/20 Please post here or email me at jstluise@u.washington.edu Thanks
  19. I have two passes for sale that were never used. Both are unsigned. 2009 passes good for the rest of the year. Normally $30 each...selling for $15 each. PM or email me at jstluise@u.washington.edu if you are interested in one or both passes.
  20. Just ran across this on craigslist. Looks like your solution: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tix/1213618157.html
  21. My partner and I would like to get up Rainier one more time this summer, but my schedule won't allow it until the middle or end of September. After a long traverse from Muir onto the Emmons at the end of August last year, I would like to try a different approach and go directly up the Emmons from camp Sherman. What do you guys think? I know it will be heavily crevassed, but I don't know how bad. This would be my first time on the Emmons route (it has been DC the last couple years). How late in the season is this route climbed? Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks
  22. Emmons Route - Mid/Late September

    http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2008/05/emmons-winthrop-glacier-w-inter-glacier.html I actually just checked that out before I signed onto the board. Sounds like it would be okay...unfortunately I can't squeeze in another climb like I hoped. I have a trip up Adams I want to go on for sure and a non-stop trip around wonderland trail coming up. Then college starts back up...just not enough time!!! There is always next year. Good to know though that the Emmons is in good shape this late in the season.
  23. Emmons Route - Mid/Late September

    Yeah I've been keeping an eye out for past TRs around that time but haven't found much on here or summitpost. I'll keep looking. I figured since the DC route has stayed in this good of shape for so long (compared to last year) that the Emmons route would be okay in September. I guess I could call the Ranger Station and see if they have any info once we get a little ways into September. jmo, my partner was talking about his friend coming along if we do go, but I'll keep you in mind. Thanks!
  24. Trip: Little Tahoma - Mt. Rainier NP - Fryingpan/Whitman Glaciers Date: 8/3/2008 Trip Report: Just wanted to get this posted up in case anyone is thinking about trying to get up to Little T before the end of the season. My partner and I got up to the Fryingpan trailhead at around 6AM on Sunday morning, got our gear together and were on the trail at 6:15. We planned for a car to car trip. This was our first time up to Little T and the last time we were up climbing was up Rainier via DC a few weeks prior...it was nice to get out especially with something new. The most recent TR we found was on July 16th by the climbing rangers. They said everything was great so we anticipated pretty good conditions. We were expecting a 12-13 hour day from reading past reports. The weather on Sunday was excellent. Little T from Summerland. After we arrived at Summerland, we took some time to figure out the best way up to Meany Crest. There is a long patch of snow just to the right (northside) of Meany Crest. We ended up heading directly at Meany Crest, then moving to the north side on all the rocks before getting to the base of the snow. Luckily someone plunge stepped down that snowfield some time ago so we used their steps as an easy way to the top of Meany Crest. Here is a view of Meany Crest from Summerland. I marked the approximate route we took. The snowfield on the way up to Meany Crest. On the way up the snow, we could see tracks down to the right of us from a group that made more of a traverse underneath the glacier before climbing up onto the Fryingpan. This looked like an easier route from what we saw but we couldn't see where it came up onto the glacier at. Once onto the Fryingpan, we got our bearings and headed directly toward the appropriate spot on Whitman Crest where we could cross. The Fryingpan looked great. A couple big crevasses opening up running east to west, but they were very visible and didn't pose any navigation problems on the way to the crossing. We chose to go up higher on the glacier and traverse the Whitman Crest, but you could certainly go down the middle of the glacier (which we did on our decent). There was some evidence of rockfall onto the Fryingpan from the Whitman Crest but none while we were there. This is on our way across Fryingpan to the gap in Whitman Crest. Another shot heading across the glacier. After crossing the ridge, we came out onto the Whitman Glacier and traversed over to the base of Little T to start out ascent. We came across a group of 4 heading back to the crossing. They just traversed past the crossing then turned back...they told us it wasn't in their plans to climb Little T today. This is the view up after we got onto Whitman glacier. Watch out for rockfall. We strapped our crampons on and headed up the slope. There were some cravasses opening up on the lower part, but we split between them and started up. There were no signs of any tracks from any climbers once we started up, so kickstepping all the way up the steep slopes ate up some time. We were keeping an eye out for rockfall because you definitely wouldn't be able to hear anything release off the cliffs higher up above the glacier. We had one close call...luckily my partner behind me saw the softball size rock tumbling down the snow above us. Shot past us about 15 feet in front of me. We didn't see or hear any rockfall after that. Here is a view of the glacier leading up to Little T. Notice the crevasses opening up. About halfway up, the slope levelled out some and more crevasses were visible. No problems though and we moved right along. We ran out of snow right up to the rocks. We removed our crampons and dropped them right there along with our ice axes and started the scramble up the rocks. Here is our route up to the top of the snow. It was an easy scramble up, just watch out for loose and rotten rocks. There were a couple different ways to get up from what we could see. Once you get up almost to the top, the last 20 or so feet there is only one way up. You are on a ridge and you must climb across it and up. There is A LOT of exposure. To the right (north) you have the thousand foot drop onto the Emmons, and to the left (south) you have a pretty good drop down onto the rocks. You may survive a fall to the south, but a fall to the north will definitely be fatal. We brought everything we needed in case we wanted to set some anchors around rock and belay up to the summit, but we took it slow and made sure of our holds and everything was fine. Here is what your looking at to the north...just a little exposure. This is the last little section you must climb up to the summit. The drop to the Emmons is on your right. The summit was great! Small but great. Enough room for 3 or 4 guys...could fit more but be careful. Had a great view of the mountain and the route up DC. Still looks to be in good shape, compared to how it was last year this time. We signed the summit book and had a quick snack. The last entry in the book was July 20th, so it had been a while since someone was up there (unless other climbers didn't sign it). Nice clear shot of Rainier. View of Ingraham and Cowlitz glaciers down below. Myself on the summit. My uncle on the summit. Some cool rock formations. We took it easy down the rocks, especially on the exposed section. After that we were back in our crampons and on the snow. It was difficult to follow our tracks down the steep slope, even with crampons on. The snow softened up a little bit so it was possible to glissade down, but I never attempted it on anything that steep so I was a little hesitant. It was easy to self arrest in though, as my uncle proved when he slipped and fell, sliding a short distance before arresting. I opted to take my crampons off and descend down the rocks. This worked okay. Once I got down a ways and onto the lower slope I tried glissading (remembering where the cravasses were) and that made for an easy descent. Here is my favorite picture from the trip. Looking back at Little T as we moved across the Fryingpan. After the long trek across the two glaciers, we glissaded down the snow slope below Meany Crest (what a blast!) and arrived at Summerland. We situated our packs and then started the 4 miles hike back to the car....we were both zombies by that time. Halfway down though, we ran up on a bear right off the trail, about 100 feet in front of us. That woke us up! After a little hollering, "Hey bear!", it barely awknowledged us then moved slowly out of our way. Took us 14hr and 40min car to car! What a long day! Well worth it though and I'll definitely do it again. We packed more gear then we needed, but we didn't know what to expect. As long as the weather looks good, pack light and you'll be fine. Going with just a daypack and only our essential gear would have lightened our loads quite a bit. All in all, the glaciers and the route are still in good shape. Cravasses are opening up on the Whitman at the base of Little T but there is plenty of room to avoid them right now. Signs of rockfall was barely noticeable on the way up too. Below is a topo of our actual route from Summerland. I didn't have my GPS set correctly when plotting points so the route up on top of Little T didn't turn out like I hoped. Here is a detailed log of times and locations: 6:15AM - 3,800' - Start at Fryingpan Creek trailhead 8:00AM - 5,900' - Arrive at Summerland 9:40AM - 7,600' - Arrive at the top of Meany Crest 11:30AM - 9,000' - Crossed Whitman Crest 2:20PM -10,600' - Beginning of scramble to summit 3:15PM -11,138' - Summit! 4:15PM - Begin descent 5:30PM - Whitman Crest 6:15PM - Meany Crest 7:00PM - Summerland 8:55PM - Trailhead - End Total time of 14hr 40min car to car. After looking at the GPS data, the total trip was 14.8 miles car to car. Enjoy!
  25. Thanks! It was a great climb...just wanted to get some detailed info out there so more people would know about it.