stevetimetravlr

Those biners are history. Jeff Thomas pulling the crux on the SE corner yesterday. rock warrior Rick Lost Cam Kenny getting er done

Sweet.

Those phat biners are probably from the rescue that went down. I heard a lady fell off the corner pitch, and then they were not sure that their rope would reach the ground from that anchor, so they called for a rescue. Folks should know that with a 60m you can rap from the base of the corner(top of Crusing) and reach the ground and pull the ropes. But if you have a injured person, seems easier to rap or lower on a single rope. They must have been discombobulated. Rescue crews came and pulled them off late in the evening. I bootied a new BD cam yesterday, so got that going for me, which is nice.

I'll do whatever it takes to get your ass out climbing Ivan, but I ain't hauling a half rack. Thats Kenny's job.. I ran into a guy never met before in the parking lot yesterday at Beacon, after climbing NW face. He was kind of a wildman (understatement), ranting about some conspiracy theories, and he said he had met you when you were out soloing the Soup and was wondering why the rest of us were such pussies that you had to solo. I told him you needed the practice..

Feeling all stoked for Beacon's opening on Wednesday. Will anybody else be out in the morning to get some good trad climbing, or are ya all waiting for it to turn into a sport climbing mecca? Man that will certainly save me on gear..

Sounds like a big leap forward, and very positive. Kudos to all involved.

Rugged!

Righteous! Great TR and photos. I always wanted to climb there, now I know I have to. No TR on Barad Dur?

Legend is you need Low balls to do it. The kind that actually drag on the ground! Thanks for posting that Gzack. Changes in the wind coming to Beacon.

Someone aint' been getting no Bacon....but some folks ave.

I on sited it and it didn't feel to hard, certainly did not seem 5.11. Kevbone, what you talking bout Holmes? Its allot cleaner then the "old" days.

After doing the first two pitches of this route, Stone Soup, and jugging the rest. I have to say that this is really one bold quality route. It starts at the parking lot literally and tops out maybe only 30 feet below the actual summit. Its long, continuous, and challenging. Scary but not frightening, its a super impressive achievement. My hat is off to Ivan for this one. I would only advise that you wear a headlamp on the first pitch for the dark hidden cam placement back in the crack, its the critical placement and with the headlamp you can see where the crack is parallel sided in one spot. Why don't more people do this route??? You can park your car and walk 50 feet and get started.

Is it this guy?

You can use a haul bag full of rocks, works great. Maybe a few pins and a hammer to back it all up, if you can't get anything else in. You can use the rope to rig a anchor off a big rock sometimes, or 30 feet of webbing works great. When keenwesh talks about placing prusiks to keep the rope tensioned, I reccomend they be done with large rubber bands, so if you fall on them they break, but strong enough to hold the rope in place.

Classic Leavenworth adventure!

Who says its all moss and choss up here? The weather was good yesterday, and everything had a nice green coating of flem.

"The last time I saw a mouth like that, it had a hook in it." - Al Czervik

WHY do I get the feeling they had a sale on cheap wine? Holy margarita.. I can tell its the off season at Beacon.

I agree Kenny. It's why no current routes go through that morass, its freaking scary up there. The only route that I know of that tempts fate and could easily bring down obviously detached hanging blocks is Menstruation or Masturbation or whatever it's called.

Frost wedging happens.

Jensens again. You guys powered it out in no time flat, and beefed up the anchors to boot. Nice.

Are they going to name it Dawn Wall or Stone Soup or what? I think Stone Soup is already taken, so that's out, which is a little disheartening.

I almost did it back in 1977, climbed almost all the summits over a few days, but did not stay on the ridge and traverse and link them. It would be an interesting achievement, with some new climbing I am sure. Now ya got me thinking about it...

Just amazing that Tommy could conceive this project, and then make it happen with Kevin along for the ride. Stoked for them.