LukeShy

All deathmetal, all the time! +1 for crack climbing, for reals though.

Nice work all! Sounds like you guys had a fun trip. Got any pictures of what you climbed?

Trip: Lane Peak - The Zipper Date: 2/11/2012 Trip Report: Original Plan: Skin/Climb the easy way up Lane, ski The Zipper. What actually happened (and why this is and Alpine Trip): Heinous snow conditions right from the road made us really rethink our ski descent plans. We looked like a bunch of first day skier clowns. The Lover's Lane crew was going about the same speed as us down to the basin below Lane. (there goes all the fun of calling them slowshoes) They got a great show for sure. Once we 'gracefully' cruised in to the basin we skinned up to the lower slopes of the Zipper & Fly. We found a nice thick breakable rain crust and frozen avalanche debris, making skinning suck, and booting up not so much fun either. [imagine a picture of carrying skis up a steeper slope while postholing to your balls] Once we worked our way to the Zipper proper there was a nice runnel that made kicking steps up a bit easier. Scott heading up the Zipper We made short work of it once we got going, snow was great for kicking steps the whole way. We stopped for some food and some scotch at the top. Afterwards we continued on to the summit, more good snow the whole way. Classy Ice Axe Pose Jason and I on the summit ridge. We awaited ajpederson's group to rappel into the Zipper, than we headed down. Our descent gave us a few nice turns to the saddle, than back to survival ski mode/flail/monster jump turns. The final slope was another fine display of 'skiing' this time there was an audience of hikers to watch our fine technique. It was another awesome day in the mountains, so really I can't complain at all. Especially the beers at the car, thanks Scott! Gear Notes: Ice Axe. Ski's are good training weight when you climb the Zipper. Approach Notes: Flotation of the non-ski variety until we get some fresh snow, unless you're a rock star skier of the Cascade Crud.

Wow excellent work, this is a great resource. Adding the extra layers of shading and the 40' contours are fantastic. The shading really adds depth to the topos. Thanks again for your hard work. I'll be switching from ACME map for sure!

PM Sent

Great job Josh! Glad it all worked out for you. We'll have to go back for Storm King sometime.

Good job guys. I'm glad you brought the ball pow, that is essential!

Nice work Devin! Congrats on the summits. Glad to see you all out there climbing. Great photos too! Did Indy get to summit either 7FJ or Fernow?

Cool Gerhard, that sounds much more challenging than when I was up there 3 years ago, we had no snow on route. I was just interested to hear what it was like when there was still snow on route. It makes sense what you described. I agree with you about the two half ropes we brought two ropes for the double rope raps and it worked well going down. Congrats on the summit!

Wow there's so much snow still up there! Nice work for sure. How did the upper part of the mountain go with so much snow? This is what it looked like exactly 3 years ago

Nice work guys getting up both Primus and Austera on a questionable weather day! I was in the tent next to you guys at Klawatti Col. I lead up the right hand side variation of the chockstone gully on Austera, the ice gully didnt look like too much fun, good job making it go!

Great video of your climb! Glad to see the route was in good condition for you all.

I was up there this past weekend and the snow started about halfway up from the TH. Going down Longs Pass was all snow into the trees and most of the way down to Ingalls Creek. There's a main trail in the snow that I followed, might still be there but it was melting out fast.

No shots of the Matt summit pose???

Nice pics and TR BootsandPants. I like Niki's description of a "kegerator" sized boulder! Glad it fell before you guys got there. Congrats on the summit.

Nice work Rick and Josh! Glad to hear you got to climb Argonaut with such a marginal forecast.

Great work you two! It was great to meet you this weekend. Glad you both had a great climb.

Did you place an alpine frisbee on route, if so was it a 160g or a 175g?

Nice work guys! Nothing like starting up that final pitch in a snow patch. Makes that first move in the corner a fun one. Chauncey looks very happy in that pink hat he found

Glad to hear you made it to mitochondria100 congrats on climbing the SGC! Thanks AdamZuber, you should be good, might be a bit more ice on the lower glacier and a little more challenging crossing the 'schrund, but you should be able to make it - good luck

Great job Wayne. Cool photos of the climb, that sunrise photo is awesome!

Perhaps a week or so not much left of it, it was only stable because it was nice and frozen snow. There is a nice snow patch on the left hand side that you can traverse left around it all. We were going to go that way if the snow bridge didn't look safe enough when we got up to it.

Trip: Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier Date: 6/12/2011 Trip Report: My first TR on this forum, this was a BOEALPS ICC alpine outing Short Version: We simul-climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier on Sunday. The route was in great condition. We crossed below the ice cliff, climbed on the far left side. Took a semi-sketchy snow bridge across the 'schrund and straight up to the top. The cornice is just a short vertical snow wall, easily climbed even in sun softened snow. Decent down the Sherpa Glacier was soft snow and the schrund was easy to navigate thanks to the boot pack from the other climbing teams. Detailed Version: We headed out at 10 am from the Stuart Lake trail head and headed for the first switchback turnoff on the Stuart Lake trail. Once we turned off we met up with Phil (cc'er "lowlife") and Anastasia. (great to meet you two!) They were headed up to try the Stuart Glacier Couloir. We all headed down the climbers trail, quickly turned to snow and then made the big creek crossing. We found a really nice log to walk across, about 20 yards above where we intersected the creek. Colcuck Argonaut Sherpa and Stuart Creek Crossing From there it was post hole heaven as we made our way along Mountaineers Creek, following a faint snowshoe track. At the 4800' where the creek splits we took the right branch and followed closely along it. More post holing, more over and under downed trees. We got to the steep part and ran into Tom, Daniel, and Wayne heading down from their NW Face climb . (Nice work guys!) We finally made it to camp and set up camp on the sweet bivy rock that they told us about. We set up camp, and kicked steps up to the moraine to check on the route conditions - looked great, game on! Pre-Climb stoke at camp! The route lookin' good Alarm came at 2:30 am, damn that's early, didn't start moving till 2:45 am, headed out at 3:45 am. Following the preset boot pack, we headed up the right side of the moraine to stay out of the ice cliff fall line, put on crampons, and roped up. Rick lead the first part as we simul-climbed up to the flat above the ice cliff. He placed a bunch of pickets and 3 screws. Snow was nice and hard and made for smooth climbing to up above the ice fall. sunrise roping up Rick on lead From there Sean took the lead and headed right around some obvious crevasses and then back towards the middle of the 'schrund at the snow bridge. He belayed us in from there and Rick took the lead again. He crossed the semi-sketchy snow bridge and headed straight up the steep snow slope. Snow conditions were still great. Once out of gear he set a belay on the right wall and belayed us in. Heading up to the 'Schrund Crossing the 'Schrund - photo by Jenny I took the final lead up the right final gully and headed straight up towards the middle of the cornice, which was no more than vertical snow. By this time the sun had been baking the final 50', which had turned it into mush, but kicking steps in it wasn't too bad. The final hump over the lip was nice because the snow on the south side was nice and solid. I belayed the team up, we high-fived, took a few minute break and headed for the summit. Topping out - photo by Rick belaying the team up The final push was good, snow was soft but there were plenty of steps to use. Took a nice break on summit and enjoyed the spectacular views. On the false summit Summit Ridge Jenny on the summit We headed down past the false summit and got to the top of the Sherpa Glacier. We roped up there and headed down, snow was good for the most part and the boot pack helped through the harder snow pack areas. Crossing the 'schrund was easy, just follow the trail over the big snow bridge that traverses from right to left. From the toe of the glacier, we glissaded back to camp. We headed out and were back at the cars at 6:20 pm where we ran into some other buddies and they offered us beers! Big thanks for that guys! It was a great climb, thanks Rick, Jenny, and Sean for the great weekend! Flickr Set Gear Notes: We only used pickets and screws, all of the rock was buried under lots of snow. Approach Notes: The hike in was fine, no snow to the Colchuck Lake turn off. Some snow to the first switchback, but melting fast. The big creek crossing is easy if you find the big log to walk across. Lots of post-holy goodness up to the upper basin and camp.

Rad pictures Devin! Glad to hear the climb went well.