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marc_leclerc

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Everything posted by marc_leclerc

  1. Dicked around in the comp scene when I was 11 and 12... skateboarded for a couple years picked up trad climbing 5 years ago when I was 15. Anyways, this link up was super fun.... just training for the valley really. Or patagonia....
  2. Trip: Slesse Twice in a Day - Date: 7/15/2013 Trip Report: It's been a long time since I posted a report here. But I think some of you may enjoy this read. Here's a link to the report on my blog. Slesse Trip Report Cheer, Marc-Andre Gear Notes: Rock shoes, one tool, strap on pons for my tennies. Approach Notes: Watch out for bears.
  3. Wrote a blurb here then got all psyched and wrote an actual report. Might as well read this.
  4. Hey Sky, my proj on the North Walls is just right of AK Highway, you would have seen my blue ropes hanging down over the same roof that AK Highway goes through. It's a wicked line.
  5. I know two or three 5.13's in the Smoke Bluffs I can pretty much guarantee Ondra himself wouldn't onsight. Beta flash with chalk on the holds perhaps Ondra is one kick-ass mutherfucker though. The tantrums are a bit over the top, it's like, "Bro, you just pumped off a 5.15 and it sounds like you shoved your dick in a blender, don't beat yourself up". But he seems to really love climbing and is really psyched to keep pushing limits, and is doing a VERY good job. Rock on Adam
  6. woot a thread about grades in squamish! time for an obnoxious spray-ish rant.... Jokes aside, there are plenty of soft routes here yes but also some not-so-soft lines as well. Here are some routes that are actually quite stiff and should be challenging enough for ya'll seeing as everything else around here is so damned easy eh... Midnight Run, 5.12a - Bring ur RP's and tighten those laces buds, while its not 'runout' really, I'd still check to make sure ur balls have dropped before making an attempt, if 12- is near ur limit. Let's just say, this is a Boyd route. Such a great line! Genus Loci - 5.12b - The 'crux' third pitch may not be all THAT hard for 12b, but many would consider the opening "11d" slab hard for 12b Sure is fucking awesome though! The hard bits are safe too just don't blow a couple 10+ moves and you should be good... don't worry they might even be soft pansy Squamish 10+ moves. Sixty Nine - 5.13b - Jeez this thing was pretty solid when people called it 13c. But who gives a flying crap it's one of the funnest single pitch cracks around! Nothing like taking big clean whips onto bomber little offsets! Golden Throat Charmer - 5.12b??! Since when does a solid V6 boulder crux into the pumpiest 11+ crack in the world equal 5.12-? Maybe it was so easy for Croft, seeing as he flashed the FFA, that he simply forgot to add a couple letter grades? I think this is only true if you don't cheat and pull on the chains to start, which I HIGHLY doubt PC did. Anyways, I can think of many more... while there are plenty of soft routes in Squampton there are some honest, stiff test pieces as well. I think this rings true for pretty much any climbing area!
  7. So I have decided to set up a blog to share some of the adventures I get myself into these days, for anyone who is interested. Hopefully I can keep it somewhat entertaining. I just made the first post today, but hopefully I should have more content to add soon. Thanks for checking it out. My new blog...
  8. these vids are awesome dude, thanks for posting! That line looked sustained right to the chains. He styled it!
  9. This kids going to be a babe gettin machine. BEAST!
  10. I always thought baking soda was somehow involved.
  11. marc_leclerc

    Peyote

    Mescaline Extraction for Dummies
  12. I thought Spring break was for doing lots of drugs, and banging lots of chicks. 8D But if you are absolutely determined on going climbing, make sure you DON'T go to Squamish or Index. Rain rain rain, generally. Smith is awesome but probably busy, but its a pretty big zone and easy to avoid the crowds in my (one) experience.
  13. Goal: To take a crap off Bellygood ledge and hit someone on 'Exasperator'. Dream: To take a crap off the top of the Chief and hit someone on Bellygood Ledge.
  14. Don't know much about IT band syndrome. But another thing to consider for the pain below your patella is 'Patellar Femoral Pain Syndrome'. I thought I had tendonitis, had all the symptoms of tendonitis and was actually diagnosed with tendonitis by a physician, but after two months with no inflammation and persisting pain that began to move from below my patella to all around my knee I was re-diagnosed with Patellar-Femoral ect ect. Started doing physio for it and I've been getting noticeable results in only a week, can't wait to get rid of it for good... If it doesn't hurt riding a bike, or running on flat surfaces, and hurts on the downhill, PFPS is more likely than patellar tendonitis.
  15. Cerro Torre is truly an 'alpinists peak' once again. Good work boys.
  16. The size of the wand often depends on where in the world the wand is from. Which is a very unfortunate and flawed thing indeed. Asian wands tend to be the shortest, which is ironic seeing as they have the biggest mountains and therefore bigger 'cracks' to deal with. Just as ironic is that wands from Africa tend to be the biggest and longest but they have the least glaciers over there. Then there are North American wands that come in fancy packages, but are often not as long as they claim to be. Whats up with that? Beats me...
  17. Awesome video, thanks for sharing! Everyone looks so young!
  18. Extremest Christians have pretty much all missed the core point of their religion. It's quite sad, as they seem to have the loudest voice.
  19. When Dean fell at the same spot he went about 8 times as far.
  20. The route looks really fun too... I would like to go to Eldo, maybe hit Eldo and the Black in the same trip. I'll go to Eldo first, see if I can find the lady in the movie, and see if she wants to elope to the Black Canyon with me, I can see that working out well.
  21. Some of my best rock climbing days ever have been in Squamish in the winter. It doesn't happen to often, but when the sun comes out and the bluffs dry up conditions are just perfect for all the intricate friction dependent climbing the granite has to offer. In my opinion, winter is THE season for sending the hard routes in The Smoke Bluffs, same goes for bouldering. I pity all the boulderers shredding their skin to peices while greasing off crystally slopers on problems all Summer. People sometimes say that Squamish bouldering grades are stiff when really they are just graded for dry winter conditions Not the calendar winter technically, these are both from the second week of December, but this is winter cragging!
  22. Okay so the preplaced gear for the start is kind of lame, but I'll let it slide because shes freakin sexy. [video:vimeo]31147587
  23. Free climb a hard new route ground up.
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