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rocky_joe

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Everything posted by rocky_joe

  1. hahahaha. too bad i did this too early, that looks way better than my Chouinard North Wall Hammer!
  2. Well said, and I stand corrected. Having been raised in a strict Christian family, I had the stuff shoved down my throat. As a consequence, I have some residual anger that flares up towards religious people from time to time. I try to control it, but I am not always successful. In person, I am very respectful towards others beliefs. When the Jehovah's Witnesses knock on my door, I try to be nice to them, but I also let them have the truth as I see it with both barrels. I don't doubt that religion would help you climb better, though very few climbers I have met are religious. True believers seem to feel it is more important to "do good works", like: volunteer at a homeless shelter, than go climbing. The serious Christians in my family work as missionaries, with no thought whatsoever of wasting time in something as frivolous as climbing. First to Frankazoid. Never met a practicing Christian who sprays about non-believers? http://www.godhatesamerica.com/ To extreme to be "practicing Christians?" Well how about the persistant spray from the Church towards gay and lesbian couples and individuals? Or preaching hellfire and brimstone about all non-believers? Or propagating the ideal of a "Good Christian Man/Woman, as if to imply religion is the requisite to be "good?" Or even better, how about the ceaseless internal squabbling that goes on within the church over the minutiae of Jesus' life or the OT? If that's not spiteful, disrespectful, hateful spray then Hilter was a nice guy. Now back to climbing. I really strongly doubt that religion of any creed will push one to higher levels of climbing. I don't think it works that way. Having grown up in the church, we were told that the Christian view of gifts, such as talent for climbing, were given to you at birth (or before) and that only through God could you maximize that potential (that is set at a predetermined level). So, yes if you believe like that, then sure God could help you maximize your talent, but it's not creating something, supernaturally, that isn't already there. Do what you please, but I wouldn't suggest you look to serve yourself in religion/God, most religions encourage piety, humility, faith and commitment, and these take a lot of time away from focusing on yourself and climbing.
  3. spray yet? jesus is from israel. there is no climbing in israel. jesus knows jack shit about climbing. jesus can't make you better at climbing. pretty sure Buddha is the guy you're looking for. Seems to do pretty well for Sharma.
  4. 23 is not to young to have knee problems. I've had them since 16 and just had surgery 6 weeks ago (I'm 21). My first bit of advice, get a second opinion. Being diagnosed with incorrectable tracking is bad news. Find the best orthopedic surgeon you can and get their opinion. Until then, do the exercises prescribed by your doctor, they won't hurt you even if they don't ultimately help. I was diagnosed with a tracking disorder by a lesser doctor and told to stop running (I was a serious XC/track athlete at the time) and the diagnosis about crushed me. I got a second opinion and was so relieved to find out the first doctor didn't really know too much. The problem I had that caused me to have surgery developed later. Go get that second opinion and I hope for your knee's sake that the tracking is correctable.
  5. I want the new quarks. Bad. (the link isn't working because you need to move the url. [url=]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜[/url]
  6. rocky_joe

    North Face

    something similar by joe simpson...posted a while ago. its on youtube.
  7. Vested interest perhaps? Of course you are going to support a bill that mandates hundreds of people a year rent/buy your product. And I wholeheartedly disagree with your sentiments about PLB use leading to better, more efficient rescues. Ask any one of the members of this forum who has had to deal with a false alarm from a PLB and I'm sure you'll not see your opinion of them mirrored. More PLBs will lead to more rescues of parties whose water taste salty and waste the time of volunteer rescuers.
  8. rocky_joe

    5.15

    is train cars a stadard unit of measure?
  9. rocky_joe

    5.15

    less than 15,000 thousand sport pitched in N.A.?!?! Untrue. there are well over 3k in oregon alone. I'm sure there are less in WA only because OR has smith, but consider nevada, arizona, montana, BC, wyoming, colorado, new york and...i think i'm missing one...oh yeah, California...got to be close to 6 or 7k there, atleast. Then add crags from Mexico. Way more than 15,000 sport routes.
  10. anyone ever wonder how annie wasn't sucked up directly into the belay...never mind. that's the least of this movie's problems.
  11. Anyone climbed with these. Came across them for the first time today in an ad in a 2002 issue of Climbing. Seems like a cool idea.
  12. seems like WI7+ is a grade that does one of two things. A) inflates water ice grades B) accounts for the danger of the climb, mental aspect (a la E scale in GB or Aid). I don't really know, but my understanding of the scale was that WI, much like Aid was not open ended like YDS, French, British, etc. I don't climb that hard so I won't say it's not WI7+. Whatever the grade it's a sick sick sick line!
  13. he's got more balls (and ability) than I ever will. Thanks for posting!
  14. why do they wear lipstick and go to hockey games? no one really understands them.
  15. Can you send the stairs free yet, or are you still using an aid placement for every 2nd move? yeah, the damn crutches are still getting in the way of the send.
  16. i suppose i should add some 17 second youtube clip of me jumaring and singing unintelligibly...then it'd be a real TR.
  17. rocky_joe

    5.15

    is climbing with a boner good style?
  18. no pics...left the camera as I feared documenting my climb would destroy the integrity of the ascent as I'm pretty sure I read some where digital cameras are aid. Oh well, I've now got a ton of memories that I can spray about to the younguns for decades to come. High Horse is a unclimbed formation that is legend on climbing forums around the interwebs; however as I had had occasional glimpses of it in the past I knew when I got the chance I'd go grab the FA. Feeling remarkably cocky and smarter than anyone else, I declined to search for a partner. Instead I decided that I would leave behind all the "necessary" climbing goods and go for the free solo. Going through my gear closet, which contains only "pre-sport climbing style" gear, I decided that pure, ethical climbers need nothing but their bodies and left it all. I decided the same about my car and began my journey on foot to ascend what may be the purest FA ever put up anywhere. I got to the TH after a two day trek through the suburban wilderness and gave it the big F-U. I chose to navigate to the (now-hidden) peak using only the stars and animal tracks. (high horse is thought to be a sacred and oft travelled place for animals of all creeds). After trudging through alligator infested waters, battling a polar bear (and winning of course), making friends with Sasquatch and surviving a plague of grasshoppers, I arrived at the base of the climb. Ethically Sound is probably, if not certainly the most inspiring, aesthetic, perfect, proud, haunting, beautiful line I've ever beheld. A perfect ramp of solid, smooth granite leads to a near vertical almost stair life formation (I named this pitch the Stairs of Cirith Ungol.) From there the climber gets to a parallel slab hand crack, the crux. After the crux the line turns on the climber, spraying shit everywhere. The mountain takes on montrous characteristics, throwing both rocks, fear and personal insults at you for the duration. The final pitches are not hard, but are spectacular and offer pro the whole way (for you weaker, less ethically inclined types). I stayed on the summit for what seemed like hours, it was now my turn to spray from the mountain top. And spray I did. Flinging poo, piss and insults every which way, making sure that any climber after me would know that my line was the best and most pure; since I'd climbed it it was no longer an achievement for anyone else. That said I was determined to take a different route down the mountain so I could truly feel like I was on the best of adventures. I managed my way down without disturbing a single pebble from its place, nor scraping away any moss. I feel that to move a stone is to destroy the mountain. High Horse must remain a perfectly intact mountain if the legends of the interweb are to be kept. I would encourage any future climbers of high horse to follow my ethics and take a different line than I did. I will not provide a topo as beta is an invention of gym rat sporto bitches. Once down off the mountain I relocated my tracks and followed them for 2 days before reaching home. I reached for the first time the summit of the great active volcano Mt. High Horse. I made many interesting geological and scientific discoveries and had many narrow escapes throughout the whole time. Gear Notes: rock and soul. Approach Notes: a journey for only the most ethical and pure climbers
  19. rocky_joe

    5.15

    shit....5.8c/d?!?! they must be mutants! and in conditions like that? now that's a TR I wanna read.
  20. unless your south of the columbia...then directions to UO (my house) are as follows.
  21. rocky_joe

    5.15

    Hey, let's not go and try being rational and intelligent about this stuff. Spray only please.
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