Dave C

pm sent about the ice tools

I am going to be out in the area taking an avi class at AAI and was wondering if anyone is interested in making an attempt on Mt. Baker/Shuksan. I know it is a little far out given how drastic the snow conditions seem to change, but just wanted to get an idea if anyone is interested.

for a typical bar food experience, the burgers are pretty good at The Highlander in Ashford.

Trip: Mount Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver Date: 6/12/2008 Trip Report: After having my climbing partner cancel because of family issues, I decided to head out to Washington alone with hopes of meeting some other climbers. I had waited a week long in Paradise to finally get some good weather. I still was humbled by the unfortuante accident earlier in the week, but I was still excited to get another summit attempt in. I met a father/son at Whittaker's bunkhouse the night prior and hiked with them up to Muir. We arrived in camp around 4PM on 06-12-08 with the total trip taking exactly 5hrs and having clear skies and warm temps. I ran into a group of three that was also in Muir and was looking at leaving for a summit attempt very early the next morning. I prefer early starts and after a brief conversation about climbing skills and knowledge, I was the fourth man on the rope. We had settled on a 1AM summit attempt. Upon waking up at midnight on 06-13-08, the wind at Muir was blowing fairly hard (30mph sustained) but the temp was reasonable. With a little breakfest and water, were were off by 1:15AM. The snow conditions were great up through the cleaver, a nice hard crusted ice layer. The DC was in great shape, only a few areas had any exposed rock. Just above the cleaver I took over as lead and headed into the winds that were ever-increasing. Most of the route was unmarked because heavy snows had covered wands. Much of the way I was post-holing in up to 2ft of snow. The high winds added another element of difficulty and by 8:30 AM we made the crater rim. Quite a bit slower than normal, but given conditions, I was satisfied. At the summit, the skies were bright blue, the winds were screaming up to I would estimate 70MPH gusts, and the ambient temp at 15F. We stayed only a short 5 mins because of conditions. On the way down, the route was starting to get sloppy because of the warming temps. The DC was really slushy and by noon we rolled into Muir. Rockfall was pretty bad on the flats just before the entrance to the cleaver. I packed up my gear at Muir, made some water, had a little to eat, and shot down to Paradise. I was back to my car by 5PM. All in all, not a bad trip. Snow conditions were very good up through the cleaver, but the upper mountain boot track was just getting kicked in again from the major amount of snow from previous storms.

Rob, Try to get out ahead of the RMI and IMG guided groups. They usually leave around 3AM, so if you can get out ahead of them, you won't be slowed down by the big conga lines.

It looks as if the weather is finally going to break. Just seeing if anyone is interested in a mid-week climb. Looking at either Gib ledges, Kautz, or a last resort, the DC.

That is assuming the weather turns for the better. It may be into next week before the next realistic opportunity.

Joe Ranger pm sent. Anyone looking at making a summit bid this weekend/into next week? I am out in the area and haven't been able to find anyone yet who is up for some climbing. Looking at doing the Kautz route, or maybe Gib ledges.

I was looking at doing something of than DC. I summited the Kautz glacier last year in July and was thinking about maybe gib ledges if it is still in decent shape. I don't want to go to crazy, I do have glacier travel/crevasse rescue experience, but I would like to stay within my means. I do plan on making it a two day trip, maybe three depending on weather.

Just seeing if anyone is interested in doing Rainier this coming weekend. I will be in the area June 5-13 and hope to meet up with some people. Cell is 414-467-7857. Otherwise I will hike to Muir and see if I can hitch a ride with someone.

I know its a few weeks away, but looking to see if there is any interest of climbing Rainier between june 5-12. I am coming in from out of state and will be in the area these dates. I have done Rainier before via Kautz Glacier last year and would be looking at doing another route, preferably not DC. I have all my own gear and have crevasse rescue training. I would be up for just going up to muir or camp shurman to assess climbing skills and take it from there. Just looking to get some climbing in and meet some people while doing it.

I have a trip planned for June 6-13. I am looking for some people who are looking at doing Rainier and Adams. I went through RMI's class last year and summited via the Kautz route. I have all my own gear.

If taking dehydrated meals, I like to cut open the packages before a trip and seal them in a smaller, more compressible, plastic bag. I keep the small instruction sheet to know how much water to add and for how long. This way things pack up much smaller, and with less weight.

I will be out in the area from June 6-11 and planning a climb via the gibraltar ledges route, or the kautz glacier depending on conditions. I summited via the kautz route last year. As of now I am looking for some other people. pm me if interested

vert hiker, Is this a yearly thing that the group does? I am interested in the next couple of years doing denali and wouldn't mind going with your group.

Well I see that this thread has gone into bashing more than informative. Thanks to everyone for the useful info. I reside in WI and would be wanting to take a course in WA. From the research I have done, I want to have a course that spends the most time in the field. Being that I would like an attempt on Mt. Baker/Shuksan, I did find American Alpine Institute to be a possibility. Anyone have some insight on them? Chris any other suggestions being an instructor?

I did the Kautz route in July of 07 and the ice was sure exposed! I am looking at doing a different route and don't really want to do the "typical" DC, ingraham route.

I guess weather will dictate if I go this route or not. I would never think of descending down it in summer. Plus, those stories don't sound reassuring.

Thanks for the great links!

I am looking at taking an avalance level 1 school in winter 09 and wanted to get some helpful insight from people who have taken, or would recommend a certain one. Price and place don't matter, I just want to find a good school to learn more. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the heads up. I have done the DC and Kautz routes in summer, just wanting to get as much experience before I head up a winter attempt. I sure does sound like there is a lot of snow this winter.

I am looking at doing Gib ledges in June and wanted to see if anyone had done the route that time of year? I know that it needs to be pretty cold as to minimize the rock/ice fall danger. I wanted to do this route in the summer so that I can come back and take it on during the winter. I also understand that it is the "standard" route for a winter ascent. Can anyone comment on that?