NateF

Most of the online calculators are incorrect in some way or another, although I believe the 5kN answer is still in the ballpark. The loads generated are relatively high unfortunately. With 30m of rope out, a fall without climbing above the last point of protection will still generate a shock load in excess of body weight, because rope stretch will allow the falling climber to accelerate downward. 5kN is not the right answer though, it should be lower. If the climber yells take, and the belayer pulls rope until the climber is supported, the dynamics are mostly eliminated and it's a different story. Try this calculator: http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportConseils?Conseil=56

Word. Adapt and enjoy!

I've seen it full and with a diverse set of user groups long-term camping. when you get parked in you usually only have to drive over a few people to get out.

So nice. Great to see you were able to spend more than 12 hours on the mountain! I think one of the biggest drawbacks to living close to these wonders is that our everyday lives are always there waiting for us at day's end and often can cut your experience short. Always some obligation or another awaiting your return to town. I enjoyed your perspective and pace as a visitor very much. Same goes for your Rainier trip. Thanks!

Was up there last month, and I can imagine that the road is quite definitely snow free by now, as there was not much at that time. If you are concerned about it, come in from the 97 side, as even a month ago you could drive most of the way in from that direction. Snowpack was not terribly deep at that time, you may be better off someplace else - hopefully someone can give more current conditions. The sub-peak below Wedge and a lot of the valley is privately owned by a very nice family, who we crossed paths with on our way out. They were kind enough to take us up the subpeak in their snowcat for a short lap, and later gave us a ride to our car in their cool tracked people-mover. They've got a couple miles of narrow gauge rail throughout the valley, it's their big-kid playground. They do have no trespassing signs up, but seemed mostly interested in keeping snowmachines out. Probably some potential for future access problems - although they were quite gracious, I'm sure they'd prefer all users stay off their property.

I've also got a pair of Vasques that I can recommend. I forget the exact model, but it's their trail runner/approach shoe that has stealth rubber soles. They are very lightweight considering the durability of the uppers. I did need to add some cushion to the insoles under the ball of my feet, but that's my only gripe. I'll get back to you with the model name later if you're interested.

diarrhea is a much more effective technique, and can be fairly safe with access to antibiotics

Thanks Danks

Going to Vietnam for a few weeks, hope to get a day or two climbing in Halong Bay. Looking for recommendations for hiring a boat, someone to show us around, and renting gear to sport climb. Ideally we'd like to book a boat & guide, and stay out in the bay on the boat for a night or two. Other recommendations for lodging near Halong Bay + camping on Cat-Ba also welcome. Thanks! Nate

Not sure what old slings have to do with bolts. Are you proposing putting in a bolted anchor next to a perfectly good tree, just so no one has to inspect or replace slings? Were there any good slings? Why didn't you clip into all the slings and then thread through both rings to rap? The bolting question reminds me of a funny story. A buddy of mine was leading the CC slab while I belayed from below the slab. I remember he finished the lead really quickly for how much he absolutely hated slab climbing. Once I pulled myself onto the slab, I was greeted by the perplexing site of the rope running alongside a line of bolts with nothing connecting them. He had walked up to the left of the route, slung a useless shrub and maybe put a few pieces in (can't remember) before reaching the anchors. I had to laugh. Of course, if he had slid off the slab it would not have amused me, but the climbing up the left side was really pretty easy.

The carbon offset debate is completely separate from Zoran's personal finances, situation, religion, and personality. Zoran, I don't think you need to work on your communication skills, you've done a fine job of plucking at our heart strings and garnering sympathy for the negative feedback you've received. I don't agree with the carbon offset concept. I'm sure the sensitive and underprivileged Eastern European that Zoran is would agree that there is a fundamental inequality in a concept or system which allows people (or corporations, or governments) to offset their portion of environmental degradation by paying a fee. The use of climbing as a vehicle for promoting something I don't believe in, as well as the obvious contradiction of climbing trips being made in the name of the environment, are a few things that bother me about this promotional effort. MattP, I commend your tactic at diverting the debate by separating the two camps into isolated discussions. Probably not your intention, but that will likely be the effect. In the end, we all respond to leadership by example, so the words cast on these web pages will not be usefull in effecting change. IMHO what Zoran should really be sponsored for are his efforts in his everyday life to make some difference in his habits. It sounds like this is a nice group of people whom a bunch of businesses are willing to help out. I can't fault Zoran for accepting all that free stuff!

A few reasons I've never visited are because if you look in Kramer's guidebook it seems like every other route has an R or an X next to it and there's a little confusion (in my head anyway) about seasonal access. When you only get out that way a few times a year, it's pretty easy to choose a different location.

Conservation groups and alternative energy investments are all there for you to support directly, without the industry and marketplace of carbon offsets. Someone please explain to me why the concept of carbon offsets is so important. Besides acting as a scoreboard for which the privileged (whether it be an individual, a corporation, or a country) may justify to themselves their involvement in activities the rest of the world does not get to enjoy. I would prefer direct regulation of carbon-producing activities, and a world where people's actions represent the values they promote publicly.

just to restate what the article says: perfom rescue breathing in cases of drowning, the new recommendation applies only to adult cardiac victims. i wonder how much the "ick factor" played into the change. i've also heard of anecdotal cases of chest thumps restoring normal rhythm. based on that and norman's information, maybe the best thing for a cardiac victim would be a few quick hard thumps, then chest compressions for some amount of time, eventually adding ventilation to reoxygenate the blood. how long can you do compressions before you're just pumping oxygen depleted blood around in a circle? anyone know? my guess is that they don't bother complicating standard protocol by recommending this because the assumption is that ALS is nearby, or the answer to the above question is "a long long time". But it may be helpful information in cases where ALS is, say 30-60min out?

yep, fall factor is about 1. shock load will be below 5kN as long as he weighed less than 200 lbs or so. there are a couple of calculation tools you can google for that calculate this stuff based on typical rope stretch

sheesh, those are the slightly older version they're trying to sell for more than retail...

I think the Shuksans are already similar to the Apache lineup. They ski quite similarly to the all mountain models from the Modx/Axis family, now replaced by the Apache line. It would be pretty shocking if whatever they're calling the Shuksan next year has anything besides cosmetic alterations. Hopefully they won't screw it up.

make it 3

Despite how beefy and heavy they may be, I managed to remind myself I was shopping for skis and not a burger, and that no matter how hungry I got, they could not be eaten. I did not think they performed as implied by the faux-review hype dominating the marketing scene. My only predisposition to the G3 product reputation is that I have always thought they make great tele bindings. The Barons were a disappointment. I'm never going to Canada again.

I considered the G3 Barons, and demo'd them vs. the Shuksan a few years ago riding lifts at Alpental on a March day with everything from hardpack down low in the shade to corn & mashed potatoes in the sun to cold powder in the shade off the traverse. Lucked out on the day for ski testing for sure. They didn't edge very well and were choppy at any sort of speed, not too stable through the junk. Are they a foam core ski? Probably not, they are not terribly light. That is the only G3 ski I have tried. Shuksans rocked my world. Sorry I don't have positive feedback for your deal. Bargain skis are better'n no skis at all though!

If you're comfortable walking down the snowfield, what have you got to lose by bringing your skis? If you're not used to looking at things from a skier's perspective, it might help to reinforce that the snow conditions will have a huge influence on your experience. Make sure to think about what the skiing/snow conditions will be like at different elevations, aspects, and time of day, on the day you go. Make an effort to time things to your advantage, especially considering your boots. The climbers left route up pan pt is slightly less steep I think, I've gone that way but it required some careful skinning through some rock bands. might be an option if the rocks are covered up. The cow path isn't that much steeper and has a good runout, just don't take anyone out if you yardsale.

I have a few days to play when I'm down that way visiting the gf's grandparents next week. Anyone down there who could use a partner? Otherwise I'll see who I can dredge up in Hidden Valley cg. Me: 34yo easygoing, fit, safe & responsible guy, lead 5.easy trad, looking to log some mileage and work on placing pro. Followed some .10- cracks last time I was down there, am in better climbing shape now. Attentive belayer, prefer to stay away from crowds/egos..

The question seems understandable. It's a stretch to lump Big Four, Whitehorse, 3 Fingers, Vesper et al as being in the north cascades (if that's where they are meant to be categorized here). Unless you've spent enough time perusing this site, in which case you just know that's where they go.

I had a great time on the south side of the mountain, tons of great ski terrain there. Have a planned route in mind, but if visibility is good, no route info is really required, and you can pick a line that looks good from the flats. I don't know what my route would be called, but it sure was a good time. I recall many appealing-looking options. Enjoy!