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PeakDream

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Posts posted by PeakDream

  1. Great advices! I can learn some of it too. Yea, I taught him to do the "A" frame instead of "X" frame from day one. I'll look at tracking from Will's book. I learned climbing from the monkey hang style from the classic "Ice World", very good but too slow!

     

    He got himself a pair of nomics and Sabretooth. The issue he has is he gets pumped out on WI-4s very quickly. I can't always tell from the top. Maybe he's gripping harder once he's on steep ice.

     

    Anyway, I passed along this thread to him and he might just post his progression this winter! Bastard is gonna climb three months of Banff and Cody!

     

    This is just for my own sake, I lead a WI-5, got wicked pump in my arms. Do you monkey hangs on "A" frame?

     

  2. Now that ice season is over, my friend and I went drinking the other day and started talking about next season. He's applying back to engineering school so he has the whole winter off (Dec-Feb). He just started ice climbing with me this season. It took awhile for him to get used to climbing (he doesn't rock climb, but will start this season). He now follows WI-3/4 comfortably, just started leading WI-3 (15 total days on ice). He asked me how to become a WI-5 leader! Well, I don't lead WI-5. So I told him just go to Banff or Cody and climb for three months straight everyday. After that, he'll be ready for WI-5. Regardless of the outcome, I'm sure he'll have a ton of fun.

     

    I'm asking the wisemen here, is that sound advice? How long did it take you to become a WI-5 leader?

     

    Cheers!

  3. I wear L/XL and with my BD Punisher as well as lighter softshell gloves the middle setting fits smooth. If you wear M in most gloves, even the smallest setting should feel ok.

    Really? Hmm... I have to double check the tools again. They feel OK, but just feel cramp as in tight space, not forearm.

     

    Not an uncommon problem on first use. On a totally leashelss tool you will find you need much less glove than normal even in the coldest conditions. I wear a solid XL in gloves and use the mid point (there are three) for the bottom pommel on the Nomic.

    My gloves are Kinco winter workgloves, not too thin and not too thick.

     

    But if I use my thickest cold weather gloves I can't get a full hand into the grip. So I use three fingers in and a finger over the ledge. Not the best use of the tool. My cold weather mittens are similar but actually have a little less bulk and more room.

    My hands aren't big enough to have that problem

     

    But almost any of the newer lwt gloves work great, fit easily fully into the grip, set at the mid position. When I am doing hard bolted mixed (hafner ck for example) I'll tighten the grip and wear an even thinner glove. Just so I don't have to grip as hard to stay on the tool.

    Tighter the adjustable grip on the tool is, the lighter the glove, the easier the Nomic is to climb difficult terrain with.

    If you are coming from any tool besides another fully supported leashless rig takes a bit of use to learn to *hang* (almost like a hand jam on rock) from the tool instead of *grip* (more like a face hold rock climbing) the tool. Two totally different techniques in use. You won't be able to take full advantage of a Nomic until you develope that subtle bit of technique. It is also the Nomic's big advantage over almost any other tool available.

    I started leashless with the black diamond viper (orange one). I think I know what you talking about, but it just seems they are smaller than most of the tools out there.

     

    Just to be clear, it's not just the top to bottom of the grips, also how skinny the grips are compare to other tools. I'll see if I can mess around a little bit more if he lets me use them.

  4. So I tested out my friend's nomics, they feel and climb GREAT! Only problem I have is the grip size. I don't have big hands, wear M on most gloves and the grips feel small (tight), so I overgrip a little. Does anyone have the same problem? My friend told me the handles are set to largest allowable Maybe they are not adjusted right or something.

  5. I want the new quarks. Bad.

     

    (the link isn't working because you need to move the url.

     

     

    [url=]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜'>http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜[/url]

    Epic failure! Nah, just kidding.

     

    http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜

     

    [img:left]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/uploaded/iberger0n/2010126145644_ErgoColour.jpg[/img]

     

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