ropegoat

Hey all, Finally biting the bullet and facing the music. My big beast, though I've loved it, has never fit right. It's time to find a better solution, so the trusty steed is looking for a new owner. Gregory Denali Pro (2005), medium, with medium hipbelt and shoulder harness. $350 o.b.o. Used about 70 days. Still in really excellent condition. I've carried up to 85lbs in it, no tares or component failures. A few scratches in the bottom, a few small stains, and one hole in the storm collar, shown with my thumb for scale (which I will patch, as soon as I can find my seam grip). This thing is still in really good shape- seems a pity almost to sell it, but it's just never quite fit me right. Currently in Portland, prefer to meet in person, but may be up in Seattle in April- we can work it out. I'd like to move it soon, so I can train in a new pack rather than put wear on this one. PM me with your email.

Burglar- I was thinking of heading up to give it a shot this weekend. I'm in Portland as well, are you interested in splitting gas? I'm free either day this weekend.

PM sent

Stewster et al, I'm just getting into backcountry tele, and am in Portland. Would love to get turns every weekend possible. Goin to Denali in June and must train. Goat Rocks, Hood, Jefferson, wherever. I have basic avy training, car, gear, and solid roped travel skills. Drop me a PM.

Jay- we should hit it by bike... in a few months. But really- if anyone is down for the ski in approach, I'm game to hit it anytime. PM me.

I forgot to include that my final opinion is also to put the pulley at point 2, even though point 2 and 3 might be the same, I think that with rope stretch and other effects (ropes rubbing against each other in your system, possibility of not having something set right, etc.) this makes the most sense. Anyone in the PDX area and want to go play with this sometime on hood or somewhere?

Connally's point makes sense in the traditional z pulley case, but not in the case of a drop pulley. The tradeoff is the between the point that sees the most rope travel versus the point that sees the most stress. Energy (aka work) = force * distance In the case of the pulley, force is: (tension across the pulley) * (friction coefficient) so: energy = (tension)*(friction)*(distance of rope) the tension across the pulley is 2 times the tension on each strand (the force in each strand running through the pulley is equal and must oppose the load on the opposite side of the pulley) we get a 6:1 advantage in this system, meaning we have 1/6 the load on each strand, also, the tension across pulley 3 = the total load, the tension across pulley 1 and pulley 2 are both 1/3 the load. for every 1 foot the victim moves up, you pull 2 feet through point 3, 4 feet through point 1 and 6 feet through point 2. Mark hits it on the head: so if you put the pulley at point 3, the energy lost is 2*load*coefficient if you put the pulley at point 2, the energy lost is 6* (1/3) the load*coefficient thus these two placements are equivalent. You want your worst pulley at point 1, because it only sees 4/3*load*coefficient Catbird: your logic is right, but it's important to consider how much rope passes through each point, that's the difference between force exerted and energy expended. You can exert more force, but you have to balance that with your endurance. I prefer to look at system w/rt the total energy expended. If this were a traditional Z pulley, the full load hangs from point 3, the tension across the pulley at point 1 is 2/3 the load, and the energy lost is 4/3, while the energy lost at point 2 is 2*load*coefficient. David: unless your rope is sliding across the pulley surface without rotating the wheel (usually this wears a flat spot on your pulley), only the friction in the bearing of the pulley matters. I've definitely worn flat spots in two SMC pulleys- have you had this happen to you a lot? Also, the tension across pulley three MUST bear 100% of the load, otherwise the system would not be balanced.

Shortstow, I'm in PDX. Want to go take a look tomorrow? I was thinking about taking a look at either St. Helens or Adams. Totally guessing, it'd be an adventure. Really just looking to split gas with someone in that direction

I'd plug for another gym on the east side. I know a lot of people who come down from NoPo and the Couv for PRG. Which side of the river is huge for me, and I would put props to rmncwntr above that the eastside is the underserved area. I actually don't mind PRG that much, but the lack of natural features and 3D climbing (chimneys, aretes, arches) is a little lacking. Supporting a few aid lines would be super sweet- exactly, warm and dry place to practice systems.

I guess I had to do this at some point, proves I exist or something.

I generally go with a lightweight baselayer top and bottom, and adjust upwards from there, and prefer to go in light/midweight increments. Layering wool underneath synthetic will make your synth less nasty, esp for multiday outings. Brand- meh, take what you have, I wear a mix of Icebreaker, Smartwool, and patagonia. Take a big puffy, cause you're not going to be moving negative temps and 100mph wind. Have fun!

49- and I'm not that old, but maybe am that cantankerous. Not sure what this says about me, suspect it means I have more "values" than my ability warrants.

Anybody else notice that the NWAC forecasts are more "friendly" than they used to be? The commentary is a lot easier to read, occasionally funny, and it seems like someone cares that some of us read those forecasts every day, and it's nice that they make them readable. props to NWAC

Is it not curious to anyone else that a PMR member did not self arrest in 200 feet? Was it shear ice up there?

partner found, plans made. Thanks all. If in the future anyone is looking for a b/c partner, let me know

I moved this over from a different thread: Anyone in the portland area game for some backcountry tele/AT/splitboard action this weekend? I really should have thought about skiing this weekend before noon on Friday. I'll be on tele gear. I am itching to get out skiing in the gorgeous weather, but would really like some company. Saturday or Sunday. PM me, I'll get back to you pronto, and can offer a car ride as well.

Aside from what you think about tele, can anyone recommend crampons that work well with their tele boots?

thanks for the post dude, Glad to see that the route sent, but really glad I didn't try to take off work and come ski it with you (without being able to tele very well...) -sk

Several people have already mentioned, but I also recently attended a MountainSavvy course with Glen Kessler and his crew and want to drop a plug here for him. I definitely felt like I got more than my money's worth. Glen is top notch, and has been at this in the PNW for a while.

pm sent

definitely interested in your expedition mitts, what do you have?

Anyone? Shells only even? I just can't afford $550 for new ones... yup, that's what I'm looking for, Scarpa Tx2s, 28.5, preferrably in really good shape. Willing to pay ~$400 I'm in Portland. Thanks

hot cocoa powder grape nuts chunk of butter sugar (brown works best) hot water powdered milk (opt) chocolate chips or dried fruit (opt) peanut butter (opt) stir = fudge

1) I moved to the PNW one year ago and knew no one, and have been reading cc.com for 11 of those months. It has been an invaluable resource in helping me figure out how to get into the scene. A huge thank you to the founders. 2) Wayne- thanks for the awesome and inspirational slideshow at the Portland Ice Festival last weekend. I was truly impressed at the quality of the whole event, which I think was due both to the quality of the climbers involved, and the quality of this resource in bringing us all together. Many thanks from a newbie. I'm looking forward to earning my turns and giving back as experience allows.

I probably be throwing myself at it this winter too. Not sure if any of my other local crazy goons are down, but I think I am... I've still got a lot to learn before I tele off the top though.