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Matt Kidd

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Everything posted by Matt Kidd

  1. infinite bliss

    X 2
  2. best overall digital camera for climbing

    I also have the Stylus, mine is the "Tough 6000". Very happy with it, it has responded well to the abuse I have already subjected it to. The pictures and video quality are both good. For me it is the right choice for the backcountry...
  3. Grivel Rambo Monopoint Crampons

    toe welt necessary
  4. First Ascent Clothing - New choices

    Sorry - not known for my patience. Look forward to it.
  5. First Ascent Clothing - New choices

    Me too. Any initial reactions? Fit (how the DAS would fit were you to be 6'6" and 260lbs ), cuffs, cut, hood? Mobility in the Compressor (looks pretty tight on the helmet)? Looks like they were intended for similar usage... The XV looks like it fits bigger as well... no? Thanks -Matt
  6. First Ascent Clothing - New choices

    Just wondering what size that DAS is and how tight/loose it fits to your body? An XL I would assume from the pic...
  7. Fang Collapses with climber on board

    At 1:50 Surely this has been posted before. Scary
  8. Considering my options at the moment. Getting out of town for the Olympics (last 2 weeks of Feb) and was thinking Canadian Rockies. Interested? Looking to climb grade 4s or harder (although I would like to hit up Cascade Falls if avi hazard is low) and get some mixed routes in as well. Fire me a PM
  9. Cool Ice video!

    love the ghost.
  10. Dragonfly

    Thinking of selling my MSR Dragonfly. Will it be a problem to ship it (sans fuel bottle of course and with it well cleaned and aired out)? Anyone with any experience on this one?
  11. WTB BD Rage (was: Shrike)

    Maybe, send me a PM with an offer if you want to pick it up in Vancouver (I'm too busy and disorganized to ship). Maybe you want to buy them both.
  12. Iceland Anyone?

    Maybe, I'll fire you a PM later tonight.
  13. BD Express Placement

    Are they significantly faster to start and place than the older BD screws? Comparisons to the Grivel 360s? Always found that the 360s were easier to place than the older BDs, is this still true?
  14. BD Express Placement

    Do you usually opt to use the Helix? How do they rack? My guess was that it would rack better than the 360, but not as nicely as the BDs. I'm getting tired of the 360s for how they rack. Always been happy with how easy it is to place them, though. Used the Petzl screws for the first time last week, wasn't a big fan.
  15. Lillooet 1/1-1/2; advice/roomshare

    Often Marble Canyon stays a bit colder than Lillooet. Check out Oregon Jack, tends to be colder in there. Haven't been following temp trends, but if it has been cold enough that a lot of the Duffey is well in, the higher climbs should hold out for a bit in warmer weather.
  16. 55L pack reviews?

    Jim - What did you dislike about the Cilogear? Doing some research for my brother's girlfriend for around this capacity because she's difficult to fit (long torso, very narrow shoulders and hips). The separate waist strap fitting of the Cilogear would make fitting easier... Anyone finding any of these brands to fit long and lean?
  17. Lodging in Lillooet

    Mile-O was the cheapest with the 'Ice Climbers Rate' and had a book at the desk with route conditions.
  18. Fun looking route, nice situation! The ice quality looks great as well.
  19. BD's newest Fusion winter '09/ '10 review

    Pretty reasonable thing to do if you don't like them. Have you tried Nomics? Loving mine...
  20. BD's newest Fusion winter '09/ '10 review

    I'd fire some in there. Will make the bolt stiffer to remove but won't bind it there forever. Sounds as if that is better than what you are currently enduring?
  21. BD's newest Fusion winter '09/ '10 review

    Have you tried locktite on the bolt threads?
  22. That's quite the name for the variation. I'm e-mailing the pics but I'll leave it to you to post them up. Good day out for sure.
  23. Grivel Quantum/Matrix Light Tools

    I e-mailed GNA when they were still around about the quantum light and they didn't stock it because they didn't consider the weight savings worth the mark up over the matrix. You'd have to get it imported I imagine unless you know something I don't. I wonder if it might be a little less cold to hold onto all day than the matrix? If you were buying for waterfall ice in equal proportions to alpine I would probably go with something else. Pretty good option as a second tool for alpine though, IMHO.
  24. La Sportiva TRango Boots: Prime Vs Extreme

    Good info, thanks. The wider fit alone kills it for me. Not going to go on a huge search for a pair to try if they probably won't work anyhow. The narrow fit with fairly generous toe box has been what has always kept me in sportivas.
  25. La Sportiva TRango Boots: Prime Vs Extreme

    Funny, I have the original Nepals and the Trango S Evos and find them both to be very comfortable. The Nepals are a bit more generous in the toe box, which is nice, but I don't mind walking in either. The discussions of 20 hrs of usage devastating the sole are possibly a bit of hyperbole then? I don't mind a bit less durability from the fabric boots if they are performing well. Not wealthy enough to resole every 20 hrs though. Basically up here I can try on the Trango Extreme Evo at MEC but I don't think anywhere carries the Prime. Would like to try on both and have a sense of how both are working for people before I drop the $$. Seems as if not too many people are getting into the Primes, which is too bad because I think they might be what I'm looking for.