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hafilax

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Everything posted by hafilax

  1. While I think your other advice is good I have a bit of a hard time with this statement. Are gloves a bad idea? No, but if there's any kind of "burning" going on then it's an improper belay from my perspective and gloves shouldn't be used to compensate for bad belaying. In drop tests an anchored GriGri will let a couple of meters of rope slip. Just imagine what happens with a tube device. rgold on stuportace and cockrhyming has been saying for years that hard falls onto the anchor are best handled with gloves and he's caught a couple. I've definitely found loose flakes that I thought were solid on inspection by tugging a cam. I find that giving the sling a wiggle to test for walking immediately tests any optimism that the cam will stay in that spot. Aid climbers vigorously bounce test pieces, why should free climbers just plug and go? If possible I use a few tests to convince myself that piece is good and that blind faith isn't keeping me off the deck. C3s go really small. What sizes are we talking about here? The margin for error with the little guys is terrible. My partner has a set and they are the last pieces I reach for although when they do fit it's a boon.
  2. I have a vague recollection that there was a comparison between pure visual inspection and giving the cam a tug. The ones that were tugged on had a significantly lower failure rate.
  3. hafilax

    Oil

    Kids get told. Adults use evidence and reasoning. Some are better at it than others.
  4. Yeah, what style? It also depends on what cab and speaker you want to use. I like the JCM800 50W and would mod it to use 6V6s instead of 6L6s to bring it down to about 30W get that nice power tube distortion especially for the cleaner tones. If you're playing clubs you won't get it with a 100W. I don't like the Rectifier tone. Too mid scooped and bassy especially with those big cabs, and not very versatile. The guitar just disappears from the mix so it ends up being cranked and muddying the whole band's sound. Of course that may be what you're looking for. You can do a lot with the cabinet too depending on the typical monitor setup.
  5. I'm a fan of the Scarpa Technos. Kind of an updated Mythos (designed by the same person AFAIK).
  6. Everyone Parts with Ice Cream
  7. Spey casting looks like it requires practice. I can do basic roll casts which work well enough for me.
  8. Nice Mr. Leclerc (pronounced like Leclair for our American friends). Your TR's are always inspiring especially for a never has been like myself. I swear I'm coming out to Harrison Bluffs one of these days to watch you warm up on my projects.
  9. I have a 4 piece that I take camping when we hike into a lake. I tie crappy flies too but they seem to work. The fish don't really care if they're pretty as long as the right features are there or they're eating everything. BC lakes tend to have trees right to the water so it's not great most of the time. I sacrifice a lot of flies to the trees behind.
  10. More like it's easier to stare at an ass without getting caught and the front can be left to the imagination.
  11. Is this the topic of discussion? [img:left]http://elombligodelocio.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/miss-pole-dance-australia-41-3.jpg[/img]
  12. Get one of these to take them out from above. http://www.backcountrybomb.com/
  13. Still seems like a bad idea to me. YMMV
  14. I think I would rather kick steps down a slope than ride with an ice ax in my hands. Between the adze and the chance of getting the bottom spike in the leg it would make me really nervous.
  15. The C.A.M.P. Pulse (review on wildsnow) is the only dedicated ski/climbing helmet that I know of. Other options are the Grivel Salamander and maybe the BD Tracer (see wildsnow again). I tried the Petzl Meteor III on with goggles and it didn't work. YMMV
  16. A bit of the jungle fever there sobo?
  17. [img:left]http://wildsheepchasing.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/bozo-the-clown-bop-bag.jpg[/img]
  18. Aren't there a couple of bolts or rivets in that hook anchor? Bottom left and right.
  19. "ROCK!" and then kick them out.
  20. Why is everyone so afraid of asking the gym staff to change the music? Maybe I should bring some music climbing to get rid of the stupid songs that get stuck in my head.
  21. I think the guy was intentionally over-the-top but that doesn't excuse the tone of the article. From the other point of view, I was a really disconnected kid. I couldn't make a decision if my life depended on it. I remember one spring, my father asking me what camps/activities I wanted to do for the summer and I responded "I don't know." which was the truth. I really did need a little push to do something; anything. My father asked me later in my life why I never got into competitive sailing (he did an olympic campaign in the fireball class) and all I could think was that I never really had any support and just needed a push. I remember, if I asked for anything to do with sailing he would do his best to help me but he never offered anything. Maybe he was afraid of pushing too hard, I don't know. Anyway, every kid is different and motivated by different things. All a parent can do is try to be on the same wavelength. Of course according to the author and a few cockrhymers I'm not entitled to an opinion because I don't have kids.
  22. This article has incited a lot of outrage on cockrhyming.com. What do the parents here think? There are some great posts by macherry, olderic and edge over there IMO. Do I push my daughter too far?
  23. Nice Marc! I've got to get out to Harrison for some climbing this summer. Seems like the internet warriors were more interested in what you might do than what you actually did.
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